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Wehrwolfzug

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Discussion starter · #1 · (Edited)
Edit: The second post in this thread has a link to an online vehicle manual.
1. The manual transmission clutch information is around page 5733 of the pdf file.
2. T355 removal information is around page 11288 of the pdf file.


My 2011 patriot manual transmission had been shifting roughly over the last year. I bought it used one year ago at 130,000km. All the gears seemed hard to find with a bit of resistance in the shifter. Now I cannot shift into any gear while the Jeep is running.

I literally opened my garage door to take my 2001 Jeep Wrangler for a test drive after changing the
1. Throw out bearing, input shaft sleeve.
2. Clutch, disk, flywheel, pilot bearing.
3. Slave cylinder.

The liberty pulled into the driveway, and will no longer shift. Really put a damper on the day lol. I am just wondering where to find out what transmission I have, a manual or links to threads/how to videos with advice.

I am not a mechanic, but I managed to fix the Wrangler with the power of the internet. Now I have to do it again with the patriot.
 
Hi Wehrwolfzug,

You have a T355 transmission.

Here's a link for a shop manual:
(Note: click through any messages about file size to big to preview and virus scanning and the download should start.)

Just throwing a few things out here, if its hard to shift all the time (engine running or not), maybe spray some lube into the mechanism at the bottom of the shifter under the shift boot.

Might be worn sticking cables or worn bushings:

If it shifts into gear when the engine is off but not when running, maybe a problem with the slave cylinder, master cylinder, or possibly a clutch problem


 
Not my Patriot, but I had a 1993 Cherokee that had an internal leak. I'd push the clutch to the floor and it did nothing. I kept on refilling it, but it would keep draining somewhere. The initial symptom was that the clutch would slip for an instant the first time through the gears after it had set overnight. My (former) dealer began by telling me I didn't know how to shift a standard. When the problem became clearly demonstrable they began throwing parts at it. Then it got rear-ended and the leak persisted after the repair. I got rid of the badluckmobile when it was only 6 months old.. :-( Never did solve the problem.

I guess the only clue I an offer is to be sure your clutch is actually disengaging and that you're not just pushing a pedal that's doing nothing.
 
Discussion starter · #4 ·
Ok, so I can put the patriot into gear when the vehicle is off. While the vehicle is off, I hold the clutch in and put it into first gear. I can then start the vehicle and use/let out the clutch pedal to move the vehicle. The vehicle does lurch forward or backward a little bit when the starter engages ( clutch pedal fully pressed down).

while the vehicle was off it was kinda hard to get the Jeep in first gear or reverse. It felt like something was physically blocking the shift or out of alignment.

Any thoughts?
 
I'm still thinking your clutch cylinder is low. When you depress the clutch to start and the vehicle lurches forward that makes me think the clutch hasn't disengaged even if you've fully depressed the pedal.

Take a look at this thread: no clutch pedal (no pressure)

Or use the search bar above "Search Community" and enter "clutch" or "clutch problem."

Did you check out the links Sandstone provided?
 
Discussion starter · #6 · (Edited)
Is there a way to fill a reservoir for the patriot master/slave cylinders? I have removed the air box, shifter cables, and batter holder. Looks like small hydraulic goes into the front bumper side of the transmission. I was unable to download the manual to my phone. I will try on my pc later.

edit: I believe this is a concentric slave cylinder. Which means dropping the transmission to even look at it. Fml!
92038
 
I see Sandstone beat me to the punch and with much better info. Since the brakes and the clutch share the same reservoir it shouldn't be hard to check. Fixing it is out of my league.
 
Discussion starter · #10 ·
yeah, I saw that leak too. There is some fluid where the one of the cable connectors attaches too. Not sure where that came from as there are no fluids anywhere else up there. The brake fluid container still has enough fluid in it, so it is not low. I have a bad feeling I have to pull the transmission on this one....
 
Discussion starter · #12 ·
So I am in the process of removing the transmission. I am attempting to unbolt the rear drive shaft in order to slide it out of the transmission. The nuts are insanely tight, and one of the bolts came out with the nut still on it. Is that normal?
92069

92070
 
Discussion starter · #17 · (Edited)
I hit another road block. The manual says to remove the rear transmission through bolt on the transmission mount. Then remove the mount bolts. The problem is I cannot physically get a tool to the bolt from underneath or above. About the only way I can get access would be from the passenger side wheel well with a 4 foot extension.
1. In the first photo ( from underneath ) the left side of the mount has a nut/clip piece that you cannot rotate.
2. in the second photo ( from above ) you can see the same nut/clip piece on the right side of the mount. If they would have put the bolt head on this side it would be real easy to remove it.
3. In the third picture from the passenger wheel well you can see my socket. If I had a 4 foot extension I could get to it in a straight line.

This is the last step before I can remove the bell housing bolts and drop the transmission.

92075

92076

92077
 
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