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JKS Quicker Disconnects - Installed

29K views 68 replies 18 participants last post by  Sandstone 
#1 · (Edited)
After having them sit round for a couple of months I finally got them put on.

These are JKS Quicker Disconnect model 2034, made to fit the '07-'13 JK Wrangler with 2.5" to 6" lift.

http://jksmfg.com/i-13306776-wrangler-jk-2007-2013-quicker-disconnect-fits-2-5-6-0-lift.html









Modifications

There were a few mods I had to work through.

First, the mounting holes on the strut and the sway bar have to be enlarged slightly to 1/2" to accept the mounting posts.




Second, the posts that mount to the sway bar had to have the threaded end shortened to avoid contact with the frame. I cut them to approximately .875.










Third, one of the pair of posts that mounts to the strut is conical on the end and has to be modded so that the top is flat like the other. These posts are the pair in the lower right corner of the first pic (no black bushing).

Additionally, since there is less room on the passenger side between the strut and the body, the sides of this post need to be rounded off so that you can work the disconnect on to the post. Even with this mod it will still take a bit of finesse to get the disconnect to slide on to the passenger side strut post.





There is slightly more room on the driver side, so the rounding wasn't necessary.



To set the length of the disconnect, I started with the center to center distance of the factory link, and adjusted it until I could get both links on and off easily.

I don't have many miles on them yet, but so far, I haven't noticed any difference on the street between the disconnects and the factory links.

I haven't had a chance to test it off-road yet, but plan to within the next week or so.

Update:
Now that I've used them out on the trail, I've found it helpful to taper the ends of the 4 click pins (pic below) used to secure the links to the posts.



Makes it a lot easier to re-insert them. :smiley_thumbs_up:
 
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#5 ·
Very nice writeup!
Thanks, Creation. Hopefully that last mod to the strut post on the passenger side made sense. Wasn't quite sure how to word it.

Ive thought about doing something like this, or just taking the links out all together. But i wasn't sure if the sway bar would cause any problems just sitting there disconnected.
Are you going to tie the sway bar up, or just leave it as is?
Yeah, I'll have to tie it out of the way or it'll just bang and bounce around.

Tie wraps will work, but I'm trying to come up with something a little easier, like a loop of old inner tube or something that I can bolt to the side of the wheel well and just pull it down and over the post when disconnected, then put the pin back in place to keep it from sliding off..
 
#3 ·
Ive thought about doing something like this, or just taking the links out all together. But i wasn't sure if the sway bar would cause any problems just sitting there disconnected.
Are you going to tie the sway bar up, or just leave it as is?
 
#7 ·
I just bought these the other week, hadn't had a chance to install them yet. Didn't know what mods I would have to make other than opening the bolt holes. Glad to know I wasn't the only one thinking I could make these work. Great work!
 
#10 ·
Thanks for the comments everyone.

We took it out over the weekend, though we didn't make it to the area that I had planned on.

These aren't the greatest pics, but you can (sort of) see the improved articulation. Much easier going over stuff like this. You don't need to have as much momentum as before , it just crawls up and over it. A lot smoother ride as well.

Now I need to do something with the back sway bar so the rear wheels don't lift.




 
#11 ·
I've disconnected the rear sway bar links before and left them like that for a week of normal driving. Didn't notice any adverse effects. I would say you'd be safe to disconnect the rear before leaving to go wheeling, then disconnect the front once you get to the trail. At least that's my plan.
 
#17 ·
Just curious, which rear sway assembly do you have?

I have the one in the first pic. I was going to disconnect and tie it, but I don't see how it's possible to keep it out of the way as things move around.

I thought about removing the bar, but it since it goes up over the rear differential, it looks like it would take some work to get it out in one piece. I saw some posts where people had cut the bar but couldn't find any where they had removed it.





 
#13 ·
I just used zip ties. Disconnected the top of the links and tied them to the bar then tied the bar down. Can't remember the exact places.
 
#34 ·
This is amazing, I love the lack of tilt in the Jeep. Definitely more travel now. You should post it on Jeeps Fbook page

Sent from my Nexus 4
Yes, and let us know so we can like it, get you on the top 5 of the week
Thanks guys! I've never entered for POTM before, maybe it's time I did.

I'd post it on Jeeps FB page, but I'm not on FB. Any suggestions?
 
#26 ·
Pretty sure the axles can't come out. Ever lifted just the back or front end on jacks? I know I have, only thing that happens is the shocks extend to the max point and stop.
 
#31 ·
Wouldn't the geometry limitations of the control arms prevent the axles from being pulled out? They will only let the hub travel so far outward thus keeping the axle in place?
 
#33 · (Edited)
I can't say for sure, but gut feel is not to trust it. The limiting would be done by the rear mount which if I recall is just basically a rubber bushing. Not a lot there.

OTOH, you could probably put in limit straps which would work, but you still have to know how long to make them.
 
#38 ·
Brake line and Wheel Speed sensor wires on Spacer lifted vehicles.

For those using a spacer lift (RRO, etc.), you should also check to make sure you have enough slack in the brake lines and wheel speed sensor wires when the link is disconnected and the wheel is raised.

This shouldn't be a problem with non-lifted or those with Stu Coils.
 
#42 ·
For those using a spacer lift (RRO, etc.), you should also check to make sure you have enough slack in the brake lines and wheel speed sensor wires when the link is disconnected and the wheel is raised.

This shouldn't be a problem with non-lifted or those with Stu Coils.
And be prepared to replace your front axles and control arms when you more than max out the CV jointsand bend the axles like I had to with the RRO and lots of time in the air with my wheels. I can't imagine the damage you're doing without the . Best of luck - I hope I'm wrong for your sake.
 
#40 ·
Ok, finally made it back out to the trail I'd been wanting to try.

Below are links to a couple of videos, the first is with the roll bar connected that was taken last year. The second is the same obstacle with disconnects removed. Sorry about the camera shake.

In addition to keeping the Patriot more level and the wheels on the ground, having the wheels independent of each other makes a difference in the amount of power and effort needed to scale an obstacle. At the beginning of the disconnected video, you'll see where the front wheel drops into a hole. Watch how easily it comes up and out as compared with the rear wheel, which is not disconnected.

I also threw in a few more pics just for the fun of it. The last pic again shows just how much difference wheel independence makes. The face of the rock the drivers side tire went up had very little slope and there's just no way it would have made it with the roll bar connected.

Roll bar connected
http://www.flickr.com/photos/67925142@N03/8065812508/

Roll bar disconnected
http://www.flickr.com/photos/67925142@N03/9287958395/
















 
#44 ·
I'll take some pictures this weekend, I found a pretty good spot close to my house.
No i haven't messed with the back one yet, I'll take a look at it this week some time.
I haven't done my lift yet so all the suspension is stock. It just rolls a little more in the corners, which is to be expected, but it still feels stable, and I think its funner to drive.
 
#47 ·
Another thing to keep in mind is the weight of the rim/tire combo. Some of those steel rims can weigh over 30 lbs themselves and adding a heavy A/T tire could put easily put you over 20lbs per corner heavier than stock.

Extra un-sprung weight won't help in terms of suspension wear and tear, especially when you're lifting wheels off the ground.

Just food for thought.
 
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