Amsoil and wix filter, that's what I use and it works great

 

I went w/ M1 0W-30.

M1 AFE 0W-20 Viscosity @ 100ºC, 8.7 cSt
M1 AEF 0W-30 Viscosity @ 100ºC, 10.9 cSt.
A 20 weight oil can go up to 9.5 cSt @ 100ºC.

I use a NAPA 7060 filter.

M1 0W-30 and a NAPA 7060 have been used at 2K, 6K, 12K, 18K and 24K. I think that once I am out from under the 36/36 warranty coverage, I will shift to M1 EP in 5W-30 and change at 12K intervals. I need to find a filter that will go 12K.

 

Not being a tool here but why are you waiting to go to 5W30 until after your 3/36 warranty expires when you are already running the wrong weight in the 0W30? May as well do it now if you prefer 5W30 because 0W30 is going to cause you just as many headaches as 5W will if you have any internal engine issues.

The performance aspects of the oil don't matter. It is the weight. Chrysler calls for 5W20 in US Jeeps not 0W30 with 20 weight like statistics. You could get away with 0W20 more than likely but 0W30 will cause you the same warranty hassles as 5W30. Both 5W and 0W 30 oils are 30 weight at operating temp. The 0W and 5W are nothing more than cold flow ratings.

Again, not starting anything but you said the same thing on BITOG and you didn't answer me there when I asked the same basic question of you. 30 weight is 30 weight as far as warranty goes. 0W, 5W, 10W won't matter. All Chrysler will see is that 30. If you want to stay warranty compliant you need to run 20 weight.

Also, don't forget you have a 5 year 100K powertrain warranty as well. More than just a 3/36 to worry about.

 

I use Valvoline conventional along with a Purolater premuim filer, PL2222 I believe.

 

I use M1 5W-20 along with Puralator Gold oil filter.

 

Gotta love my title here....
Back in my late teens early twenties I worked at a Minute Lube for years as a "lubrication specialist" lol
They would send us to tech school regularly and what I got out of it then and now is.....
, the best oils by way of research were the full synthetic oils.
Personal favorite is Quaker State full synthetic.
2nd the 50/50 blends
Then conventional.
With today's technology, even conventional is a damn good oil for cars with every day activities. That includes off-roading.
Anyone in Baja, Indy, High performance engines, high stressed engines are recommended to use full synthetics or 50/50
Personally, I use Mobile1 in my GM LS2 engine because you can literally feel the smoothness difference from conventional and shaves a sec on times.
In my bikes and all other cars and trucks I use the conventional.
From back then there was a huge difference in all the brands and the quality. With today's technology however, conventionals have become superior from what they were.
Heck, even the recycled types live up to higher standards then you realize.

So IMO if you are running high performance, go full synthetic.
If not, save the dough. Go for conventional or recycled.

Now my opinions on filters is different.
Buy the best quality u can get. Do your own research and decide what u like.
But they too all do the same thing. You'll be hard pressed to find brands that fail or cause Pre-mature engine wear or failure. Rare
I personally like the type with the hex bolt on the end cap. Easier to remove in tight spaces. Other than that and cost there's no other reason for one vs the other.
They say card board is bad. Hello! Cardboard doesn't fall apart in oil.
Then they switch to paper. Duh?
They all work. Just make sure they fit correct and it's all good!

Hope that's a long enough opinion.
LoL
And for argument sake, it's "In My Opinion"
Not humble or honest to be determined. Hehe


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I use conventional oil, gastrol usually. I also use a K&N Oil Filter. Have used these on all of my cars for the last 16 years.

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1STyEEpOWNER has it right. SM-rated conventional oils, even generic ones, are so good these days - meeting the toughest standards in the world - that there is really no reason to spend the extra money on synthetics unless......

You want a longer oil change interval (OCI).

You live somewhere very cold and want the superior cold flow characteristics of synthetic.

You operate your vehicle under TRUE severe-duty service, where you need to minimize shearing and breakdown under truly nasty conditions.

Let's face it, the engines will far outlast the rest of the vehicle anyway. Putting in the expensive stuff feels good, but it doesn't buy us anything.

Filters are another story. Buy the best you can find. NAPA Gold are the best I've used, which are made by WIX. Good stuff. Avoid poorly constructed filters that come in an orange canister.

 

Just FYI the current API service level is SN not SM.

 

well havent done oil change on the pat yet but in my magnum and other jeeps ive been using m1 extended. Supposedly lasts up to 15k miles but i still changed every 3500 to 4500 miles... Also used the mopar filter for the magnum.. Dealer put 8k on the oil change sticker for first oil change... Seems a little long so was wondering when yall did your first oil change.. Sorry not trying to thread jack the op..

 

My wife and I are only at 1200 & 1600 miles so we haven't and won't until 5k
Then just the OEM recommended weight and whatever the local shop supplies.


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Anything with the proper API spec/starburst symbol on the bottle. 5W-20 and/or 5W-30, which ever is available.

 

There is no real "best" oil. You can't go wrong following the car mfg's specifications( i.e. weight and ratings )for your vehicle. Use a quality name brand oil that meets all of the mfg spec's and change it within the mfg's time/mileage limits and you will be fine.

There are benefits to synthetic over conventional that go beyond extending the length of service. Increased wear protection at cold start and increased heat protection( i.e. thermal breakdown )are 2 advantages to it. I personally am a big fan of synthetics.

I like Royal Purple fluids in general and they are my personal favorite. I also like and have/will use Schaeffers, Kendall, and Pennzoil for synthetics. For conventional oil I have always been partial to Castrol GTX or Valvoline.

For filters I run Royal Purple filters. I also like K&N, Mobil 1, Purolator PureOne, and Bosch Distance Plus. If I am going to do short OC's or run conventional oil in vehicles that the owner doesn't care about using premium stuff like me I will run a quality mid range filter. I like some of the OEM filters( Motorcraft, MOPAR, AC )as well as Bosch, Purolator, Hastings, Baldwin, and Wix/Napa Gold. I avoid cheap junk like STP and Fram.

 

I ran Castro GTX, Chevron Supreme, and Havoline in my old XJ Cherokee with Napa Gold or Purolator PureOne filters, and it was in fine shape when I got rid of it after 15 years or so. In the Patriot so far it's only had Mobil1 EP 5W20 and Mobil1 filters, though I'm not married to that. If I was, it's okay, because it's a fine oil and a fine filter. If I do something else sometime, it'll probably be Pennzoil Platinum and a PureOne, who knows?

 

Oil threads are the bane of internet message boards and the greatest waste of bandwidth. 4000 different opinions and none of them wrong. Change your oil frequently and the rest of it is moot.

 

Thanks for the heads-up NHPatriot - the new SN spec slipped by me. It is only getting better; every new letter denotes a fairly significant improvement over the previous one.

One of the biggest advantages of these modern oils is the tremendous shear strength. That's what has allowed manufacturers to start spec-ing 5w-20 and still be confident in the protection level in pretty much all conditions. This kind of film and shear strength just wasn't possible in the oils of just a few designations past. It also eeks them out an MPG or two for the ever-present mileage game between the consumers and CAFE regs.

There's really no reason to mess with viscosity changes, it's just not necessary. These oils are extremely good.

 

It really depends on the internals of your engine as to whether or not the new SM/SN oils are actually superior. Older vehicles with flat tappets have seen some cam lobe wear issues due to the reduction in ZDDP in SM+ oils. Newer vehicles it is not an issue for the most part but they aren't always better is my point.

 

The info below is not really about what kind of oil people use, but to emphasize how often oil should be changed. If you change your own oil, keep records and receipts.

From the 2012 Jeep Patriot Owner Manual (under MAINTENANCE SCHEDULES):

• The oil change indicator message will not monitor the
time since the last oil change. Change your vehicle’s
oil if it has been six months since your last oil change,
even if the oil change indicator message is NOT
illuminated.
• Change your engine oil more often if you drive your
vehicle off-road for an extended period of time.
• Under no circumstances should oil change intervals
exceed 8,000 miles (13 000 km) or six months, whichever
comes first.

 

I use regular oil, but I change every 3K miles too, just an old habit, whether the change indicator came on or not.

Last oil change, it came on when I was on my way to the dealer for the change. Oh, and they didn't reset the change oil indicator too, which seemed odd.

When the weather is nice, I usually do it myself, but bought 4 oil changes for $60 not long ago from the dealer, which is less than if I do it myself.

33 oil changes so far for my 08

 

Wal Mart generic oil. Fram filter. Good for my old XJ for 300,000 miles and my current WJ with over 217,000 miles. The only thing I do is change the oil. Nothing fancy nor expensive for this guy.

 

Way to square 'em away! People just don't know this type of stuff but what's worse are the budget quick lube fartholes they take their vehicles to and expect them to know, when they (the shop) doesn't know because they're so good at what they do, they allow the customer to choose the weight of the oil and what's in their head? NOTHING- but the last oil weight they heard some yahoo boasting about FOR THEIR BMW - O-W30 I LIVE IN NEW ORLEANS AND IF YOUR MOTOR HAS IN EXESS OF 150,000 MILES ON IT? IM GOING TO SAVE YOU A BIG FRIGGIN HEADACHE AND BANK-ROLL AND PUMP IN THE 20W-50 SPECIFIED FOR HIGH MILEAGE ENGINES. ITS THICKER AND IT "HANGS ON" TO THE MOVING COMPONENTS INSIDE THE MOTOR- PREVENTING WHAT I LIKE TO CALL "DRY-HUMPING" THE ENGINE EVERYTIME YOU START IT UP. YOU SEE, CHRYSLER AND CHEVY TOYOTA KIA EVERY AUTO MAKER WILL NOT TELL YOU ABOUT 20W-50 BECAUSE YOUR CAR IS ONLY SUPPOSED TO LAST- AT BEST- A YEAR PAST THE WARRANTY. WHY? SO THEY CAN SELL YOU A NEW ONE WHEN YOURS BLOWS UP BECAUSE THEY HAVE YOU USING THE WRONG OIL! ITS A DESIGN MECHANISM FOR INEVITABLE FAILURE. GUARANTEED!! YOU RARELY SEE A CAR ON THE ROAD ANYMORE THATS 10 YEARS OLD AND IN TIP TOP SHAPE- THAT HASNT HAD EVERYTHING ALREADY REPLACED UNDER THE HOOD. BEST BET- JUST LEASE A DAMN CAR- WAY LESS HEADACHES! AND YOURE NOT STUCK TRYING TO UNLOAD IT! ANOTHER MAJOR MISTAKE IS THAT "TRADE-IN" - WHAT YALL DONT K IW IS THE USED CAR MANAGER AUTOMATICALLY PLACES A VALUE ON YOUR TRADE @$1.00 ! That's all he's going to tie up in your beautiful trade in. You actually get lied to by EVERYONE WHO WORKS AT THE DEALERSHIP- ONE WAY OR ANOTHER YOU'RE GOING TO ABSORB THE FULL STICKER PRICE AND THEN SOME- (YES, I AM AN A.S.E. CERTIFIED MASTER TECHNICIAN WHO ONE DAY HAD ENOUGH OF MY SERVICE MANAGER RIPPING OFF MY CUSTOMERS AND I WENT STRAIGHT INTO THE SALES DEPT AS A FORD TRUCK SPECIALIST AND NEVER TOOK A SINGKE CUSTOMER (known in the sales biz as an "UP") AND STRICTLY SOLD ROLLING CHASSIS TO FIRE DEPARTMENTS FOR AMBULANCES- UPSILD THE GEAR THAT MAKES IT AN AMBULANCE AND HAD A CREW OF 5 TEXHNICIANS I PERSONALLY HIRED TO PUT THEM TOGETHER AS WELL AS TOW TRUCKS AND OTHER HIGH-END COMMERCIAL TRUCKS. I WAS THE NUMBER 1 SALESMAN IN NOT ONLY MY STATE, BUT IN ALL 50 OF THEM. SO, YES I K OW WHAT I'M TALKING ABOUT WHEN IT COMES TO "CARS" HAPPY MARDI GRAS EVERYBODY!!