Thanks for the info.

 

So replacing the crankshaft position indicator, which is part of the transmission, was $46. Replacing the fluid plus labor will probably get you a bill around $300-350. Still cheaper than buying a new car. Good luck and let me know how it goes. Mark.

In a similar situation over a decade ago, I had my 4cyl. Caravan transmission rebuilt for a legitimate defect. Over the next months the shop rebuilt that transmission again and then replaced it with a second rebuilt transmission (on their dime). It turned out that the $28 throttle position sensor had become defective after the rebuild and the vehicle computers resulted with that defective part producing bad transmission symptoms. I tipped the shop some extra $$ for the frustration.

There are lessons to be learned in these stories.

 

Hello I hope this helps you. I just brought my Patriot back from the shop last week and we solved the stalling problem. When driving at slow speeds in town, the car would stall and I would have to Coast over to the curb. Then it might not start again for anywhere from 5 minutes to 30 minutes. The engine would crank over fine, but it just wouldn't start. Unless I let it sit for a while.


Was there any build up to the stalling, like stuttering or hesitation at intersections or red lights? Or did it just one day start stalling on you? Did you try other things first before the sensor? I have a 2015 Jeep Patriot Latitude that hesitates/lunges when I hit the gas after I've been idling or had to slow down and then quickly speed back up. I plan to change the spark plugs first (if I can ever get them out). I just had to replace the ETC back in April of this year that ran me well over $950. 😭 I'm slightly paranoid it's going to give out on me in traffic one day, whether it be "in town" or on the interstate. I'm just wondering if your issue started out like mine. Though I've had no Check Engine Light lately, it does make a clacking noise as I'm driving (think of the sound a roller coaster makes as it begins its slow ascent...clack clack clack...closest thing I can think of). To make matters worse, my AC gave out on me in June. I think the do-me-hickey is stuck because it makes a God awful racket even when I turn the heat on. But that's another story for another thread for another day.

 

2015 Jeep Patriot Latitude 136K Miles, just recently started this issue. As it is my wife's vehicle, she was describing it as a transmission shudder, when in reality it is the engine cutting out intermittently. I have been driving it for a few days, and it feels like the engine will cut out for a few seconds while driving. There seems to be no rhyme or reason for this, hot or cold doesn't matter.

The stall-out occurs at low speeds like acceleration at a stoplight or waiting to turn at an intersection. All these places would be great accident-inducing spots, as attempting to pull into traffic and then the vehicle stalling is a wonderful choice. When the stall occurs you lose all power, the RPM gauge goes to zero, and you lose steering( the vehicle isn't running).

If you put the car in "N", and try to restart you can't. You can only turn the key all the way off, then it restarts without a problem. You don't get a check engine light, and sometimes you get a traction control light to come on but most times when you restart it is all good for a while.

We replaced the throttle body last year, we recently replaced the spark plugs, had an oil change recently, and all the fluids were fine, and not low. I took it to a dealership today, they suspect it is corroded wires in that fuse block behind the left headlamp since there is some corrosion there. But can't get it to act up when you wiggle the wires, and replacing the wiring is expensive.

I suspect it is a wire corrosion issue, but so far can't pinpoint it because of no codes. I am considering leaving it with the dealer and getting a rental until it is fixed. Most days it does it at least once a day, and I feel it is a safety issue.

 

I see that it has been two years since you’ve posted this, but maybe you found out the issue by now. My jeep is doing the exact same thing. I am afraid to drive it. I am hoping it is not a huge bill or the transmission. If you receive this, and have gotten your jeep fixed. It would be great if you could let me know thank you so much.

 

A failing crankshaft position sensor or wiring might also be the cause.

You can do the "wiggle" test on the wiring yourself if you want, pic and diagrams below:

 

Update... I have figured the problem is related to acceleration. If you accelerate slowly from a stop or on an incline, the problem does not happen as frequently or at all. As I mentioned, the stall out/die out is the most concerning when you accelerate at a red light or intersection. This is when the vehicle will die or stall, but if you accelerate slowly or gradually like a senior citizen, much to the dismay of people behind you; the die-out doesn't occur. So I need to know what happens upon acceleration that is different. My brother thinks it is a fuel problem because fuel will not set codes, but I am not sure. I took it to a dealer, and they got it to do it a few times, but not enough to pinpoint the problem. I have another appointment with them after Christmas, where they keep it for a few days, with the new information about acceleration being a factor. I mentioned to them that the internet says it is a crank sensor, and they said not likely.

 

Is it only happening when the tank is full? If so it could be the roll over valve in the tank is stuck open allowing the evap purge valve to suck raw fuel into the engine.

 

You can't rule out a failing crank position sensor just because there are no codes present. On my '06 Hemi Daytona, I started to get a bucking sensation sometimes under acceleration. Started to get more progressive, and still no codes. At times, it would long-crank before starting. I finally narrowed it down to the CPS. Replacing it solved the problem. Unfortunately, it was winter, and I had a local shop replace it, and they used an aftermarket sensor. From what everyone was saying on the Charger forums, aftermarket ones typically last 12 - 18 months, and after about 14 months, I started to get the same symptoms. The shop that did the job had a 24mo/24K mile warranty on both part and labor. As I was driving home the evening I was to drop it off, it got REALLY bad, an finally set a code and went into Limp mode. I had them replace it with an OE Mopar part, and no issues since. Lesson learned - not all failing sensors will self-report and set a code.

 

Mine has been doing it the entire 12 years I’ve had it. It only fully stalled once or twice. When it begins to stall I just press on the gas pedal and it stops 🤷‍♂️. Not putting more money into this thing.

 

Update, have a few codes now that the vehicle shut off while idling, and stalled out while coming home. P0221, and P2135. From my research, both these things could cause some of the symptoms I have been getting. We got both the check engine light and the electronic throttle body lights on. At no time was the check engine light flashing(this is good), but the complete shutdown told me not to drive it too much.

 

The newest Update, took it to the dealership to have them check it out. They tell me the codes in it are consistent with a throttle body. I had a throttle body replaced in 2020 and had one replaced last year for a goodwill warranty of the Mopar part warranty since is just over 2 years from the last replacement. Now a year later, they tell me it needs another throttle body? What is the deal there? Are there any instances where you replace the throttle body every two years? This seems crazy because they are crazy expensive!!

 

Parts quality if very questionable these days. Several members here have had good luck with $50 Amazon throttle bodies.

 

Agree totally on today's parts quality, or lack thereof! It can REALLY make diagnosing a problem that much more difficult. In the past, once you installed a new part(s), it was a set-it-and-forget-it thing, and you moved on to the next possibility on the list. Not anymore. Even with a brand-new part, you can't just ASS-u-me it's good. I can't tell you how many 180-degree t-stats I've gone through in the last 15+ years on my '06 Hemi. Some have lasted from a few days, weeks, months, to a few years at the longest. No issues with the stock 203 OE stats, or even most of the 190s. Parts were made in US, Mexico, Israel, China. All CRAP! Quality is all over the map. I've seen guys putting together old-school V8s in muscle cars get a faulty brand-new coil right out of the box. You tend to chase your tail looking for something else, ruling out that part just because it is new or newer, when in reality it WAS the new part at fault. To add insult to injury, with the whole "supply chain" BS, you have to often wait for a crappy part.

 

I was one of the $80 Amazon throttle body buyers a little over 4 years ago, mostly because i could order it Saturday, get it Sunday and go to work Monday. It lasted 4 years so i bought another. It only lasted 1 week before it had a cold temperature failure. If i let the engine idle in limp mode to get some heat into it and restarted it would be fine. I quickly returned it and bought a Hitachi brand from rockauto and haven't had an issue since.

 

Update, got the vehicle back from the Dealership today, the service manager talked to his factory rep about the throttle body I had put in last July and has failed yet again. The Chrysler factory rep agreed to fix the Patriot for a $200 deductible. So this is the 3rd OEM throttle body within 1 year's time, will it last longer than 5 months? I would like to think so, but their track record isn't too good at this point. I have paid a little over $1000 in deductibles, diagnostic fees, re-flashing fees, and so on for a new OEM part that can't even last 5 months. It seems unreasonable to expect people to keep paying for junk when you sell them junk. I may cash out, meaning I am looking at buying a Honda CRV to replace this heap, only because I keep paying for crappy OEM parts, which are no better than Bosch quality.

 

BTW, the Jeep is fixed, drove it home, it runs fine, and the problem is solved. For how long will the new part last? They replaced the throttle body, and thoroughly tested all the wiring, checking for bent pins, and corrosion, from the throttle wiring to the computer. They had their senior tech on it, will I keep the vehicle? Not sure yet, my wife loves her Jeep, but I want to look at a Honda, and I know a guy with a good deal. I still need both lower control arms replaced, and about then it probably will need a new timing chain, don't know how long they last, but at 136K, I bet it is around the corner.

 

Thanks for the update, glad they got to the bottom of it.

 

Update: The problem is NOT resolved, was fine for a few days, but now it is doing "the shutting down", and the engine cutting off mid-acceleration again. Because it seemed resolved, I thought it was fixed. So back to the drawing board. Over the weekend, it doesn't shut down as it did before ( as in during acceleration ), but now it seems to shut down on deceleration, and the hesitation (where the engine seems to temporarily lose power, then it starts up quickly again). I am going to call the dealer on Monday and see what other steps we can take. We generally like the vehicle, but this is quickly turning into a Money Pit.

 

I would think that if it is another TB failure, with what you've already paid out, plus the part being so new, the dealer would have to eat the total cost of parts & labor at this point. If not, as some others have done, I'd try going with one of the elcheapo aftermarket parts, replace it yourself, and hope it lasts the better part of a year, and steer clear of this dealership. Dealer may have to look a bit more closely at the wiring on this as well before just throwing new parts at it.

 

I spoke to a tech today who has been working on Jeeps for 40 years, he thinks it is a bad ground or power wire. He thinks whatever triggers it, if you shut off electricity to your engine for a second, that would be the hiccup where it shuts off and comes right back on. And the shutdown, is the same thing, just that short cuts off the power to the engine long enough to shut it down. He said unfortunately it is a needle in a haystack sort of thing.

I am having another tech rebuild that fuse block in the front left of the engine compartment which contains the ASD relay, and a bunch of other important fuses and relays. It might be the problem, or not. When you are flying blind you need to start somewhere. If this doesn't fix it, then it will be time to start tracing all feed wires to the engine one by one.

Not for the fainthearted to be sure

 

Most likely a crank shift sensor. My dealership bought it from wanted charge me 3k for a $20 part replacement. I can't find anyone to help me and having the car junked unfortunately because I am on unemployment and have no funds get things replaced. If i do just stall on me. The cvt transmission goes at 95,000 miles