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the360tech

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Discussion starter · #1 · (Edited)
I was getting C2200 ABS module internal failure code and the ABS light, Brake light, and traction control light were constantly on. I cleaned all the grounds, checked all the connections, checked all the wires, but nothing would resolve this issue.

I ended up getting a used ABS module off eBay for about $100. NOTE: It's important that the part numbers and year matches! My part number was P68212478AB. I also made sure the other numbers on the labels matched (Not sure if that matters). I was able to replace the ABS module without having to remove the brake lines and bleed the brakes.

Here's how I resolved the issue:

1. Remove the two 13mm bolts at the bottom of the ABS bracket. These are easy to access, but you might need an extension.
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2. After confirming the ABS unit is loose, use zip ties to pull up ABS module up as high as it will go. I used an anchor point on the cowl to hold the unit up.

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3. This is the tricky part. You have to remove the 4 torx screws on the back of the ABS module. I recommend using a torx bit on a small socket wrench. There's also an access hole in the wheel well housing that might help.


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4. After removing the four bolts, slide the old ABS module out. Here is a good video on how to unplug the wiring harness if you can't figure it out.

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5. Install the replacement ABS module (new or used)

6. Reinstall the 4 torx bolts, reattach the plug and reinstall the two 13mm bracket bolts.

7. You will need a Bluetooth scanner and the JScan app. After having the scanner ready, use ABS initialize to initialize the replacement ABS module. This video has great instructions on how to initialize the ABS module using Jscan. (You will select the Patriot instead of JK obviously)

8. Your ABS dash lights should now be gone!

I hope others find this information useful.
 

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I remember a few years back I was having issues with the ABS in my '06 Daytona. At the time, it was diagnosed a bad ABS module. The electronic modules are relatively cheap and easy to find, and it didn't require bleeding the system. Unfortunately, it didn't resolve the issue, as it was then determined that the issue was with the ABS pump assembly. Those, unfortunately, are NLA! My only choice for that was to have the shop scour the junkyards for either a Charger/Magnum/300 with the same p/n assembly, which they found. It is then a crapshoot whether that part is going to be any good, as it is used, with probably as many, or more, miles than the original. Plus, that required a trip to the dealer to re-flash my VIN info, and to bleed the ABS actuating the valves. Not sure if that's the same with the Pat' if the entire pump assembly has to be replaced.
 
Your write up came at the perfect time! I have the same issue right now (C2200) and was contemplating the best course of action. I was looking up companies that will repair the module for the $250 and up price point but the cheaper the better!

Did you have any issues with the VIN mismatch or does the jscan initialize the VIN in without a dealer trip? I've poured over all sorts of posts and the used modules route and VIN issue always seemed hit or miss.
 
Discussion starter · #5 ·
Your write up came at the perfect time! I have the same issue right now (C2200) and was contemplating the best course of action. I was looking up companies that will repair the module for the $250 and up price point but the cheaper the better!

Did you have any issues with the VIN mismatch or does the jscan initialize the VIN in without a dealer trip? I've poured over all sorts of posts and the used modules route and VIN issue always seemed hit or miss.
Yep, that's why I wrote this guide. I've seen a lot of Jeep people complaining about these modules all failing as of recently... It's as if Jeep designed them all to fail at the same time.

I did not have any issues with the VIN mismatching. I believe JScan updates the VIN when you run ABS Initialize.
 
Yep, that's why I wrote this guide. I've seen a lot of Jeep people complaining about these modules all failing as of recently... It's as if Jeep designed them all to fail at the same time.

I did not have any issues with the VIN mismatching. I believe JScan updates the VIN when you run ABS Initialize.
Also awesome that there is enough room to sneak the module out of there. While looking it over I had suspected that there'd be just enough flex in the hard lines to wiggle it out but figured popping the lines out of the plastic holders to the firewall would be required, but seems you didn't have to do that huh?
 
Discussion starter · #7 ·
Also awesome that there is enough room to sneak the module out of there. While looking it over I had suspected that there'd be just enough flex in the hard lines to wiggle it out but figured popping the lines out of the plastic holders to the firewall would be required, but seems you didn't have to do that huh?
I didn't try popping the lines out of the plastic holders, but I'm sure that would help. 👍
 
One final question, the part number you mention, was that from the sticker on the abs pump itself? Meaning the round, black piece opposite the electronic module? In checking my numbers, i noticed my module has just 215AD, and the pump sticker number is P68028215AD, same last 5 characters as the module.
 
Discussion starter · #9 ·
One final question, the part number you mention, was that from the sticker on the abs pump itself? Meaning the round, black piece opposite the electronic module? In checking my numbers, i noticed my module has just 215AD, and the pump sticker number is P68028215AD, same last 5 characters as the module.
Here's the part number I went off of

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Thanks! I had used my xtool scanner to read the internal abs controller configuration and it spit out a mopar part number that only got one hit on Google and i was thinking the pump label might have been just for the pump itself.
 
Well, i managed to get the abs module swapped. Getting those bottom torx bolts is a lesson in patience! I also removed the firewall heat shield and was able to pull the brake line plastic clip standoffs out and off from the firewall studs to let the lines flex more. For the heat shield you only need to remove the top 11mm speed nut and loosen the bottom two down low behind the manifold. The heat shield has slots instead of holes so you can wiggle it up and out from the lower mounts. I used a ratchet strap from the drivers hood hinge to pull the whole assembly up and back from the strut tower. Worked great! Tomorrow I'll button it back up and take it to a parking lot to do the initialization. Fingers crossed they sent me a good part.
 
And to complete my own yard part replacement controller with using jscan, it was a success! My original controller had 215AD as it's number and the ebay part was a 215AB and it worked.
 
What year is your GC? I would check jscans website to confirm it covers your year, and if it does, it will likely work just fine. Make sure to purchase one of their recommended blue tooth dongles as well. This can be very important to ensure jscan and the dongle can fully communicate with all the vehicle modules successfully.
 
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