Anything direct OEM is expensive. Partgeek has them super cheap in comparison. $47.23 to $77.23 each side

http://www.partsgeek.com/catalog/2010/mitsubishi/outlander/suspension/control_arm.html

Compare those prices to the Patriot which is $82.23 to $95.73

http://www.partsgeek.com/catalog/2010/jeep/patriot/suspension/control_arm.html

 

Yeah, even the Moog one for the outlander looks stronger than the moog one for the Patriot. Good find guys!!! Just paid for my subscription X4

 

You can use a non-OEM part, that's what the OP did.

As far as major differences, I don't know of any that would justify the higher price of OEM.

 

Torque Specs for Control Arm R&R

Here's a list of torque specs if anyone needs them.

 

Just saved me $30 by ordering an LCA for an Outlander, rather than one labeled for a Patriot.

 

I regret this decision lol. Outlander arms are different!

 

So on a semi related note, anyone able to find PNs for the rear lower control arms for '13+ Pats? I'm having trouble finding them on eBay or Amazon as there are so many ads for the old style but the sway bar mounts differently so those aren't the greatest solution... I'm not too against modding it as I'm planning on welding plate to the bottom to make them better than the FDII.

 

Rockauto has them

MOOG Part # RK641868

 

It shows its for a 2008 and the picture shows the wrong sway bar link mounts. You get those and they're right?

 

Is there a difference in control arms from 2008 and from 2014? I ask because I have a 2014 Patriot, nad just traded in my 2010 Outlander for a new WK2. I measured everything and although they look slightly different, everything matched up.
So if it didn;t line up right on yours either there is a difference in the control arms between your 2008 and my 2014, or the control arms on my 2010 Outlander GT were different than the unit you purchased.

 

yea, I dont know. I did a side-by-side comparison of both the control arms when they were uninstalled, they looked the same. I think the Outlander ones mount to the steering knuckle in a slightly different angle. doesn't take much to throw off alignment in a vehicle. and I dont know if they are different. My Pat is an '08, and I bought control arms for an '08 Outlander, so idk...

 

Have we reached a consensus about the Outlander LCAs? Are they compatible with pre-facelifted Patriots?

 

All I can say for sure is that my 2014 Patriot and the 2010 Outlander GT front lower control arms were identical except the units that were on the outlander were fully boxed. Unfortunately, I never compared the arms on pre-2011 Patriots and I no longer have the Outlander as I traded it in on a 2015 Grand Cherokee Limited. So, if someone is going to do more comparing it won't be me. I would however, not hesitate to order LCA's for a 2010 Outlander GT and install them on my 2014. And more than likely will be doing exactly that when the time comes for me.

 

Just a thought since rcguymike welded some rear lower control arms. Maybe the front ones could be welded to increase strength too

 

oh yea, just box them in. that's the only thing making the outlander ones stronger. on a side note though, has anyone actually ever bent their control arm yet? I know you have been ruthless on your MK's. did you ever bend or break an LCA?

 

Recently got my tires (halfway) rotated. Wanted an X-pattern rotation to get some fresh tread on the pavement due to my camber. Well, Walmart is still full or retards with wrenches and they didn't understand that I basically wanted all 4 tires inverted. They only did 2. This is after they only swapped fronts to the back. 6 times I've gone to Walmart for tires on 3 different vehicles and there's always SOMETHING the mess up. But it only cost me $40 and I got my TPMS's installed finally. Whatever.

Here lies more evidence that the 2008 Mitsubishi Outlander control arm does NOT fit properly in (at least MINE) a Patriot. It kicks the tire out of the fender more. Look at the angle in both tires, and the excessive camber wear on the one with the Mitzu arm.

This being said, if you still want these, do them in pairs, and get your Camber aligned. I'll go buy a new ball joint and press it in my OEM LCA and swap it back in soon.

 

Recently got my tires (halfway) rotated. Wanted an X-pattern rotation to get some fresh tread on the pavement due to my camber.

Standard procedure for a 4 tire rotation is FR to RL, LF to RR and move the backs to the front. silly Walmart:doh:

(If you're ever in the UP I'll do it properly for $15(substitute whisky/rum or other random stuff with approval) and 30 minutes)

This being said, if you still want these, do them in pairs, and get your Camber aligned. I'll go buy a new ball joint and press it in my OEM LCA and swap it back in soon.

Might be almost as cheap to buy a 2nd Outlander arm and $15 camber bolts?

 

Lol well their excuse was "since they were directional, we only do front to back" then I told them I wanted the X pattern, and we even entered that in the computer at the desk. The guy was like "we'll that would require taking the tires off the wheels" and I said you already had them off to put the TPMS's in.... ridiculous. I'd totally take ya up on that offer if you weren't so far away haha. But I do have adjustable coil overs so I can set my camber up front. I'll just spend $30 and get a new ball joint. I can get em in by hand. Did it on my E30. Just takes a little effort and a vise haha.

 

Lol well their excuse was "since they were directional,

Well there's your problem...lol

The guy was like "we'll that would require taking the tires off the wheels" and I said you already had them off to put the TPMS's in.... ridiculous.

:doh:

I'll just spend $30 and get a new ball joint. I can get em in by hand. Did it on my E30. Just takes a little effort and a vise haha.

been contemplating getting an air hammer to assist with this kind of thing since it seems inevitable that it'll need doing on most of my suspension.

 

I asked Dorman what the differences were between one of the Patriot parts vs the outlander, and here's the reply I got:

"Yes, the 521-306 is boxed construction while the 521-108 is a single layer stamped piece. The 521-108 does have a larger diameter ball joint stud"

There was no mention of any other specs.

I also asked if the ball joint mounting holes were the same so a Patriot ball joint could be installed in the Outlander arm. They said:

" We do not specify the diameter of the ball joint housing or the hole in the arm. The reason is, we sometimes dual source these and do not specify as long as the arm as a whole matches the required specs to fit and function."

 

well ****, maybe I just happened to get a bad one, huh. when I get around to re-installing the old one, I'll do a bunch of measurements!

 

Measurements would be great. I compared the specs that I found on Amazon, and if I read them right, they are different with the Patriot being larger/longer.

 

I am confused now. I have a 2007 Patriot 4x4. It looks like some of the mitsu parts will work?

I need to replace lower front control arms, rod ends, and the rear lateral links (the 5" long links with a rubber bushing at each end.)

What parts should I be ordering to do this in the most cost effective manner? Bonus if front ball joints will be serviceable and/or easily replaced in the future.

I also need new struts in all four corners if anyone has suggestions for those.

 

It does look like the Outlander arms should work, but there may still be some issues. FWIW, here's what I ordered:

Prime Choice Front control arms w/ grease fittings. Ebay may have them cheaper.

These came in today, and they seem to look ok. Comes with the retainer bolt for the ball joint. Only gripe so far is that they installed the grease fitting in the ball joint but didn't pack it in a foam block so it stuck out and punched holes through the boxes. If you order from them I would mention it and ask them to pack it better.

You can save your old control arms and upgrade them with good parts for cheap for the next time.

AC Delco Professional Inner and Outer Tie Rod ends

Outer end has a grease fitting, inner doesn't but I don't think any of them do.

For the rear links I ordered a set of these:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/GODSPEED-GS...-06-08-14-LANCER-SPHERICAL-BEARING-ADJUSTABLE-REAR-CAMBER-ARM-KIT-/151546930335

Another member here found them, and I was able to get a set for $145 w/ shipping. They adjust +-3 deg which is one degree more than Moog for about $50 a set less. Plus, they look cool.

 

Are these prime choice arms boxed in on the bottom? My ball joints are shot and for the price of these on ebay I might as well get the whole arms.

 

No, unfortunately they're not boxed.

But what I was thinking of doing is re-building the original arms with better bushings and box them myself.

Oh, and FWIW the ones I got were imported from Canada. Seriously.

 

Ya I already found the distributor in Ontario. Funny thing is it's cheaper to order from them on ebay than directly from their site! $94 from ebay for both.

Oh and everywhere I got parts numbers to match your CAK598-599 were all patriot/compass/caliber part numbers not outlander.

I think with my old ones I may start looking at extending them...

 

I'm thinking the Dorman 521-305 and 306 as they are partially boxed(why not fully?)
[ame]http://www.amazon.com/Dorman-521-305-Front-Lower-Control/dp/B004AIPZXA/ref=sr_1_1?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1438625456&sr=1-1&keywords=Dorman+521-305[/ame]

If only they had the grease zerk...guess I could upgrade them later...

 

I'm thinking the Dorman 521-305 and 306 as they are partially boxed(why not fully?)
http://www.amazon.com/Dorman-521-30...A/ref=sr_1_1?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1438625456&sr=1-1&keywords=Dorman+521-305

If only they had the grease zerk...guess I could upgrade them later...

They are longer. Took the Pat to get dinner and noticed the tires were aimed outwards, also camber seems a bit off. I'm maxing the camber and going to attempt to adjust the tie rods a bit. Hopefully I can get it to the alignment shop tomorrow.

 

Has anyone tried fitment of these arms? Besides the bracket any issues? I know these are for the Outlander 1, but I have this idea...

Anyone here have a 2006 Oultander?

 

Any problems with handling, etc.?

 

Nope, drives fine. Had to get the KM2's rebalanced a few thousand miles ago now she's steady as a rock