Jeep Patriot Forums banner

Control arms equivalence!

Tags
158
2 reading
40K views 101 replies 16 participants last post by  rcguymike  
#1 ·
For anyone interested (i really don't know if this was debated before,but i know similarities with mitsubishi outlander ,asx and lancer have been discussed),i found out today that mitsubishi outlander ll and asx contrrol arms are identical with the patriot's.
now,the codes are different,oem and after market,but all measurements are the same,so they fit.
this finding gives hope of better quality aftermarket control arms.
here in europe we have a selection of german made replacements for mitsubishi that should be good quality( febi bilstein,swag,jacko).
i will be replacing my right side due to play of the front control arm bushing.
will be back with more info after the swap.
 
  • Like
Reactions: milspectees
#4 ·
the control arms that fit aremitsubishi outlander ll (2006-2012).
shocks look the same both front and rear,but i don't know for sure.i plan to measure them as i have a friend with a outlander ll.
other certain interchangables are brake pads,sway bar links,tie rod ends,bearings.
 
#7 ·
Good info! I was recently surfing Wikipedia for a little information on the Patriot with interchangeable parts, and discovered this:

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mitsubishi_GS_platform

This is the platform that the Patriot sits on, and shares a lot of the same stock parts associated with that platform with many other vehicles. I found it to be very interesting, and possibly helpful for those without much access to auto parts stores, dealerships, or are living somewhere where they have to pipe in sunlight (lol).

Hope the link helps you in whatever you may need, and thanks for the info!
 
#8 ·
I have a 2010 Outlander GT and a 2014 patriot. The lower control arms are interchangeable. The Mitsubishi units are fully boxed and a better unit. The ball joints are also serviceable. They have a zerk fitting on them for applying grease. The units on my Patriot do not. When mine wear out, I will replace with outlander control arms and ball joints.
However, the brakes are not the same. My outlander has much larger brake pads and larger rotors than my patriot. My outlander also uses 18 inch wheels, so maybe that is something with the GT model. In 2010 the GT came with a v6, so maybe they beefed up the brakes. The struts are also different. Also, may be a "GT" difference. I do not have access to any other outlander to compare.
 
#17 ·
I didn't look up part numbers. I simply looked at the parts noticed that they looked the same except that the units on the outlander were fully boxed unlike the arms on the Patriot. I got out a measuring tape and measured and everything came out the same. So, I know that the arms from a 2010 outlander would fit a 2014 Patriot. When I replace the units on my Pat I will simply order for a 2010 outlander GT.
 
#14 · (Edited)
the control arm i am getting doesn't have that.i believe the one in your image is outlander l.
this is the one for outlander ll made by swag,germany:

Image
 
#21 ·
That's what I would go with. Moog usually makes high quality stuff. I know for years with my multiple ford trucks I would always end up replacing front ball joints, and, always bought the moog replacements because they had grease fittings and Poly bushings.

I know that the units in my patriot had the chrysler stamp and the units on my outlander had a triple diamond mitsu logo stamp on them. I would just make sure they are the fully boxed design instead of the stamped open bottom design currently installed on the Patriot/Compass.
 
#24 ·
mine should be in tomorrow,and friday i will be in the shop installing.
will be back with pics.
 
#29 ·
Ok, seeing these line drawings it's clear that there are two seperate rear suspension set ups for the Outlander. Mine is definitely the lower picture with the seperate springs. The same as the photo you attached. You can see the round spring perch in the lower arm.

I would bet the other style would be inerchangeable without modification. Not sure it's worth it though. I noticed that the rear lowers on my patriot, while not fully boxed, do have plates welded across the bottom of the arm to help stiffen it.

There are cheaper lift kits for the outlander. Similar option to that of the Patriot. Most come from Australia. The Outlander seems to be a very popular vehicle there. IT's S-AWC (super all wheel control) is a great system. But nowhere near as good as the Patriot's. The Outlander is great in the snow, packed dirt, or very packed sand. Loose sand though eats the Outlander's lunch. I have buried the outlander and the patriot on the beach. The Patriot is not the best vehicle for driving in loose sand, but it is light years ahead of the Outlander in that area, and gives up nothing to the outlander for driving in snow on pavement.
 
#31 · (Edited)
I noticed that the rear lowers on my patriot, while not fully boxed, do have plates welded across the bottom of the arm to help stiffen it.
Yeah, FDI Pats are open, no reinforcement:




And one of mine has a nice dent...
http://www.jeeppatriot.com/forum/showthread.php?t=273689

Edit: BTW anything else that you can see sturdier on the Outlander? :D
Looks like the lateral links are beefier too...but I don't see any issues there.
http://www.carid.com/2003-mitsubishi-outlander-suspension-parts/dorman-lateral-link-33172512.html
Image
 
#37 ·
i officially confirm the interchangeable front control arm of mitsubishi outlander ll with the pat's.
the right side control arm is in.
it is heavier and beefier and looks of much better quality.
 
#44 ·
i used a swag contol arm,made in germany,but any good brand will do.
the idea is that the outlander ll control arm fits the pat perfectly and is definitely of better quality.
 
#43 ·
#47 ·
Goguadi mentioned in an earlier post that he used an aftermarket part from SWAG, a German supplier: http://www.swag-parts.com/?lang=GB

The Moog part will probably work, though it doesn't look like it has grease fittings whereas the OEM might.

I don't think replacing just the control arms will necessarily cause you to have to have an alignment done. I had to remove and re-install both control arms to replace the ball joints on both sides, and it seem to drive fine.

Hope this helps.
 
#49 ·
#51 ·
if you only change control arms,you don't need alignment.
only if you change tie rod ends.
 
#52 ·
I've been finding non OEM (moog) control arms online for around 50 dollars each, but the OEM link that was posted shows the arms being over 200 dollars per side. Am I missing something? Are there major differences other than the ball joint being serviceable? I'd like to do this upgrade for a hundred dollars, but for 400 plus it's not really appealing. What does everyone think about the non OEM being a no go.