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Another Jerking Jeep Question

5.1K views 12 replies 7 participants last post by  JeepCares  
#1 ·
2011 Jeep Patriot 2.4 Automatic (CVT) with 111,000 miles

Issue:
From parked the car jerks a bit like something is sticking and then as I accelerate 1015 it smooths out and then there is no issue until we have to slow down to a stop and at low speed (less than 10) it jerks a bit before finally stopping.

I thought that it might be the coil packs because I replaced the spark plugs 9 Months ago and that solved the jerking between 35mph and 45mph. In Hind sight should have done both. I just did those thinking that might solve the problem, it did not seem to make a difference. Would the new spark plugs wear out in 9 months if I did not replace the coil packs at the same time.

at an oil change a year ago they said a have a tear in my right "CV shaft boot and grease is leaking". Is this the same as my so called "sealed CVT transmission"? I am wondering if my transmission fluid is low because of the leak?

We did have our Summer Michelin tires put on a few weeks ago however my wife has taken it back to have the tires check by Discount Tire after 200 miles and they said everything looked fine. She drives the car daily and can not tell me if it started after the new tires were put on. We switched over from winter tires does a computer or sensor need to be reset? I cant think of one but its a thought.

Rear Brakes were done around Christmas because the fronts were still good. Backs was really bad.

Could the Throttle body by corroded? I saw that as a possible option on here but the symptoms were not exactly the same.

Any insight would be appreciated. Thanks
 
#2 ·
First things first. CV is an axle joint, used as an alternative to a u-joint.

VVT is variable valve timing in the engine.

CVT is the oft-misdiagnosed and badly reviewed(as often as not for completely unrelated things or for poor maintenance) "automatic" transmission with no gears, just a belt and two pulleys.

Spark plugs can be the jerking issue if they haven't been changed recently. 30k miles for stock NGK copper, 50-70k for double-platinum, longer for iridium. But spark plugs also need to be properly gapped in order to work in the engine. Otherwise the jerking could continue or get worse, or the engine could vibrate itself, or both. Coil packs, idk.

Tires shouldn't cause jerking, though if they're different sizes that could set off some warning lights because of the ABS or AWD system spazzing out.

Now for the clincher: Have you ever changed the CVT fluid? Chrysler says sealed unit, which it isn't, but the little book that came new in your glovebox says fluid change at 120k miles. That's wrong too. Should say 60,000 miles. Wait a few thousand miles too long to do the change, and it'll reveal some extra wear by jerking and hesitating to come off a start. Then maybe 15k miles later(this number could vary) the belt will eventually snap. Or if left alone, it'll wear out and snap without the fluid change, just at a later mileage. IF this is your issue, then you're already SOL and need a new, rebuilt, or gently used sub-50k CVT from another 2010-2017 Patriot/Compass that matches yours whether it's FD2 or not and 4x4 or not. Also whether it was matched to a 2.4L or 2.0L engine, but I don't recall that one for sure. When you replace it, Amsoil is your best bet for fluid, with Valvoline as a decent second and Castrol a close third. I don't know what your fluid preference is, but those three are rated as the top options because of viscosities, heat resistance, etc., stuff that'll make or break a CVT longevity.

However, there is one other option that is worth checking before you replace your transmission....the throttle body. They eventually go on pretty much any Patriot from what I hear, usually sooner than most vehicles. But it's a sub-$100 part and easy to replace yourself if the Jeep Patriot Around the World(JPATW) group on facebook is any indication. By comparison, a brand new CVT is $4000-$5000, rebuilt $2000-$3000, and a low enough mileage used unit $800-$1500 depending on mileage, condition, and location.
 
#7 ·
Now for the clincher: Have you ever changed the CVT fluid? Chrysler says sealed unit, which it isn't, but the little book that came new in your glovebox says fluid change at 120k miles. That's wrong too. Should say 60,000 miles. Wait a few thousand miles too long to do the change, and it'll reveal some extra wear by jerking and hesitating to come off a start. Then maybe 15k miles later(this number could vary) the belt will eventually snap. Or if left alone, it'll wear out and snap without the fluid change, just at a later mileage. IF this is your issue, then you're already SOL and need a new, rebuilt, or gently used sub-50k CVT from another 2010-2017 Patriot/Compass that matches yours whether it's FD2 or not and 4x4 or not. Also whether it was matched to a 2.4L or 2.0L engine, but I don't recall that one for sure. When you replace it, Amsoil is your best bet for fluid, with Valvoline as a decent second and Castrol a close third. I don't know what your fluid preference is, but those three are rated as the top options because of viscosities, heat resistance, etc., stuff that'll make or break a CVT longevity.



However, there is one other option that is worth checking before you replace your transmission....the throttle body. They eventually go on pretty much any Patriot from what I hear, usually sooner than most vehicles. But it's a sub-$100 part and easy to replace yourself if the Jeep Patriot Around the World(JPATW) group on facebook is any indication. By comparison, a brand new CVT is $4000-$5000, rebuilt $2000-$3000, and a low enough mileage used unit $800-$1500 depending on mileage, condition, and location.

How hard is it to change the PTU, CVT Transmission, and right cv shaft? The dealer quote is more than the car is worth... $7200 for a 2011 With 112k miles.

I’ve found mopar’s PTU for $850, and carmonkeys has a cvt for $1800 and the cv shaft for under 200. The unknown cost is all the fluids I saw a post about them being very expensive ($30 a qt for one of the oils)




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#3 ·
..at an oil change a year ago they said a have a tear in my right "CV shaft boot and grease is leaking". Is this the same as my so called "sealed CVT transmission"?
Nope, not the same.

If you didn't get the boot fixed a year ago and you've been driving it that way, I wouldn't be surprised that by now the CV joint is dry and starting to bind and about to break. I'd get that taken care of ASAP.


Any error codes or MIL lights?
 
#5 ·
Sounds like what happened with my throttle body is starting on yours. Mine did that for awhile before it started throwing any codes. In fact I brought it to the dealer several times without them finding anything. Take care of your CV joint. At this point it probably needs replacing anyway, but might as well try to salvage it
 
#6 ·
My Patriot would occasionally jerk/lurch. This went on for awhile, and mostly happened when it was cold. It turned out to be the crankshaft position sensor, which surprised me, because I believed that if that sensor went then the vehicle would not start at all (it turns out that's only one possible symptom).

Just a possibility.

GB
 
#8 ·
According to someone here who removed, repaired and re-installed their CVT the hardest part wasn't the repairs but the remove/re-install.

You can buy Valvoline or Castrol Transmax fluid for around $10-$12 a quart. Amsoil sells for around $14-$16 a quart.

I don't recommend buying Mopar CVT fluid; it may not only be more expensive but IMO probably not as good as the others I mentioned.
 
#9 ·
https://www.amsoil.com/shop/by-product/transmission-fluid/automatic/synthetic-cvt-fluid/ Technically the best stuff, but a bit pricey.

https://www.amazon.com/Valvoline-Co...d=1510936595&sr=1-1&keywords=valvoline+continuously+variable+transmission+fluid This stuff I just bought from my local Auto Value, apparently from them it's $13/qt these days, but they gave it to me for $11/qt. Castrol I wouldn't know. I hear they're almost as good as Valvoline, but being more familiar with Valvoline, I'm not really inclined to use much else these days.

Also check with a third party mechanic you trust, if you know such a person/business in your area, for a quote to install the parts you found. Maybe check for the part number of that PTU at RockAuto, www.moparpartsoverstock.com, and a few other places.
 
#10 ·
Also check with a third party mechanic you trust, if you know such a person/business in your area, for a quote to install the parts you found. Maybe check for the part number of that PTU at RockAuto, www.moparpartsoverstock.com, and a few other places.

Thanks for the info, that’s next, a lot of calling around. Fortunately we have a family members vehicle to drive around in the mean time.



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#11 ·
Could anyone tell me if the error code “P0730: Incorrect gear ratio” would kick on the check engine light? My light never came on. Dealer says Gearbox needs to be replaced

The dealership says that is the code they are getting. I went out and tried to check the code myself and the car listed no codes isn’t the key trick it just said “Done”.


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#12 ·
This is a well known issue, either the crank shaft sensors or the throttle body. When it gets worse you will notice the engine will just die randomly. My 2015 just experienced it's first "jerk" the other day (only 50,000 miles). Not sure how I am going to convince the dealership that a part is starting to fail before it has completely gone out since no error codes appear. My warranty ends in a year. I am hoping I can get mine replaced while still under warranty.
 
#13 ·
Hi rhino714,
We’re sorry to hear about this. We certainly understand how concerning this may be. Please feel free to send us a private message if you decide to return to the dealer and we will have this documented and provide you with additional assistance.
Lydia
Jeep Social Care Specialist