Just curious, when the sensor was replaced was it tested to verify that it was bad?

Also, would you happen to know what codes, if any, were present?

I'm wondering if the problem is actually somewhere in the sensor wiring, like a break in the insulation that's shorting the 12v supply for the sensor to ground, which in turn causes the no-start issue. Then in the course of changing the sensor, the wiring is moved just enough to remove the short and mask the problem, but over time it returns.

 

Sandstone and todde702 I don't remember the codes and I deleted them, I will try to recover them but I don't know if that is possible. No I did not test the sensor, I'm not sure how to do that. I do remember that one of the codes said that the TIPM lost contact or the ECM lost contact.-----todde, yes it is the driver side. The only wires that are moved on installation are the ones that are immediately at the connection of the sensor to the harness, so that is only a short piece of 2 to 4 inches that are moved when the connectors are plugged or unplugged. While I agree that it does not make sense that the wheel sensor would cause the engine to stall, here is what I can tell you. After the first time that happened I was getting ready to take the car to the dealer but I had got a code that said the sensor was bad. So I decided to save some money and change the sensor myself before taking it to the dealer for them to figure out what was going on. When I changed the sensor, I decided to try to start the car, and it started, although it ran rough for a few minutes and then it cleared up and ran right. I drove the car around close to home without any trouble, so I decided to see if that was the problem all along. I drove the car for 3 or 4 months with no problem. Then it died on me again, so I replaced that sensor and the car started again with no problems. I have not tried to drive it anywhere yet, but I started it and it ran for about 20 minutes with no stall. It would not run that long before. Before I changed the sensor it would start sometimes after waiting for an hour or more, but would stall again after about a minute or two of it running without even driving it. Then would not start until I let it rest for an hour or more with the same results (stalling after a minute or two). So I have to believe the sensor is the problem. Either that or it just happens randomly and I am just lucky it does start when I change the sensor. I find that unlikely, but you never know. The only other thing I noticed is when I pulled the old sensor out this time, it had some greasy residue on the end of the sensor. Perhaps that was the problem. I am gonna try to drive it again see what happens and will post the results of the attempt and also if i find the codes I will post them as well. Also, I think I'll wiggle that connection while its running before I attempt to drive it. Thanks for the help and if you think of anything else please let me know.

 

As Sandstone says, something else is going on here. The wheel sensor has nothing to do with running the engine with the only exception being some throttle control from the stability feature. But that control would not include engine stall/shutdown. Is it the drivers front sensor? If so, some folks have found broken wires along the harness where it routes down into the wheel well from the TIPM to the lower relay box. It's a section that sort of bends down over some inner fender/body frame sheet metal.

 

This is exactly where I found an issue related to one of my sensors. It was throwing a code for the driver rear abs sensor circuit, usually indicating a bad sensor. A new sensor would not clear the ABS and ESC lights. I checked the harness at the sensor with a multimeter, voltage was low at like 4-5V. Traced the wire all the way to that big-ass harness behind the drivers wheel well. When I disconnected it, one of the pins wasn’t flush with the others, wouldn’t you know it was the pin for the wire I was tracing. Pulled it flush with needle nose pliers and it’s been good ever since. Check this harness and the wiring surrounding it. The harness sometimes gets funky, and the wiring nearby gets corroded or shorted.

 

Is it the crankshaft position sensor?

 

It does sound like something else is going on, maybe a bad connection or a failing module dragging the CAN C bus down.
Codes might be helpful.
The next time it has trouble starting, try disconnecting the wheel speed sensor and see if that changes anything.

 

What's the battery voltage? Is it low?

Does the version of Blue Driver allow you to verify the VIN stored in the PCM?
If so, I'd check that and see if it's correct.

 

UPDATE-----I took the car to a shop while it was running without problems with the last wheel sensor installed (not dealer) they kept it for 3 days and could not find the problem. I picked the car up, drove it for a week or more and it stalled again. This time I was able to restart it again and drove it about 2 miles, but it would only go about 25 mph, then it stalled again and I could not restart it. I called AAA and had them tow it to that shop again, where it has been for 2 days. Still no word from them on if they've found anything yet. I will post again if they find the problem or not.

 

Any idea what it was or are you just a new owner of kia or something now

 

I am in the same hell with my 2016 patriot...the engine light goes on or the tire pressure light goes on. I have to put car in N at stops then back to drive or the car just will not go over like 5mph..any advice that you have learned from? I put 3 sensors in this past year and half, last one was from dealership