If you haven’t already checked or refurbished it, you might want to take a look at the ground on the frame rail under the coolant tank (known as G104 or G110 depending on the year/documentation). The wires tend to corrode within the crimp of the ring terminal. Here’s how I handled it: https://www.jeeppatriot.com/posts/1904994/

Here’s a service manual troubleshooting section for P2006: P2006 — 2011 Jeep Patriot 4WD L4-2.4L Service Manual | Operation CHARM

And P2015: P2015 — 2011 Jeep Patriot 4WD L4-2.4L Service Manual | Operation CHARM

 

IronTooth, I went through the service manual that you sent me, and everything passed minus one thing, which does not make sense.. On page 7, service manual you sent me, It tells me to disconnect,c2 plug from ecm. Between pins 5 and 6 on IMRC actuator plug on wire harness that is disconnected, I should have over 100 ohms of resistance. It was an open circuit between pins 5 and 6. Reconnect the c2 plug on ecm, I get over 100 ohms it read 126 ohms. Prior test on page 5 and 6 I received 5 volts on each pin with ecm c2 plug connected and ignition on. . Those test on both pins passed per service manual. Then on page 7 disconnect c2 plug on ecm, ignition off, I should have 100 ohms or more. Open circuit between 5-6, Install ecm c2 plug plug, 126 ohms which is what they call out for. So i think service manual is wrong on this test or I am wrong.. For I received the correct voltage, with it hooked up. All other 16 pages passed. Light is still on. I did look at the ground plug under or next to reservoir that you sent me photos of. The car was garage kept. Wire harness and wire connectors look great. So no need to rework that issue you sent me. Ecm conection pins to IMRC passed. I did do a vaccum test spraying started fluid on all vaccum lines while engine running. Everything checked good. So I am leaning toward ecm. I found a company on ebay, that will sell me one tested and reprogrammed to my vin number with software updates. Flashmasters is the company name. Anyway. I thought I would check with you, to see what you think..

Thanks
wcol

 

Thanks Irontooth, I will look into this over weekend. Ill keep you posted, on what I find...

 

I forgot to mention, I clear codes with my scanner one time, I started engine, and instantly rev rpm up to 1100rpm for over 5 minutes, and code never came back. As soon as my foot left off of gas pedal, and rpm came back down to 700rpm, engine light came on...

 

Unfortunately, I’m not a mechanic, nor do I have any specialized knowledge on dealing with the codes that you have. That said - I’m more than willing to lay another set of eyes on it to see if it looks in error. I’ll try to puzzle through it today. By page number, did you mean step number? I’m looking at the diagrams on-line. Which of the two procedures were you looking at?

I mentioned the ground because the circuit diagram in the service manual pages shows it grounded there. In your case, it may indeed be OK (e.g. - if Step 14 of the P2006 procedure passed), but keep in the back of your mind that the corrosion occurs inside the crimp of the ring terminal, and may not be visible to the naked eye. The engine compartment grounds are notorious for this corrosion causing mischief.

 

Thanks, page7 104884 number next to photo... I get voltage reading on pin 5 and 6.. I followed instructions on removing c2 plug from ecm... I get a open circuit. Reconnecting that plug to ecm, I get the reading that they call out for, which is more then 100 ohms. 125 ohm reading... So this test makes no sense, disconnecting c2 plug from pcm... That breaks the circuit for an open circuit... Everything else passed perfectly from service manual you sent. This is electric test, between IMRC plug, and c2 plug on ecm...

 

One way to check a ground is to skip the DVOM and instead use a bulb to put a higher amp draw on it. A DVOM only draws milliamps and can show a "good" ground, but hook a bulb on it that needs 1 amp or more and it won't even light the bulb. You want to hook to the sensor plugs ground (unplug the sensor and back probe the ground wire so you don't ruin the terminals tension for a good contact tension) and the battery positive.

 

I follow you, I only checked voltage on imrc plug pin 4 for voltage pin 4 is a ground. It read 12.4 volts...I do not have a test light, I figured, if it had high resistence, It would read low, But I follow you about volt meter... So if I have a bad ground, then where is the terminal ground at. Irontooth was saying, it was next to fan belt pulley by coolant reservoir. I guess I can take these grounds off and check them out.. Multiple connectors on one ground, could have an issue. Vehicle was garaged kept, and terminal nut still has factory paint on it... I could get a test light, and try it out... If it lights up bright, It has to be ecm...I will get a test light and check this out this week on ground pin 4...That is final step on other web sites troubleshooting this P2015/P2006...If all test goes well, and changing IMRC (which is second actuatoI changed.) then ecm could be the bad apple...

Plus the car runs perfect.. If I had issues with power loss, massive rough idle, stalling... I would say ecm is reading it correctly.. If this imrc is stuck closed like ecm is stating on hard permanet code, The jeep would not run well...

 

In many of the service manual diagnostic procedures for grounds that I have read, they specify to compare the brightness of the bulb when testing the circuit to the brightness when the bulb is directly connected to the ground. A dimmed bulb means a compromised ground.

 

I ordered a test light from Amazon it will be here tomorrow. I’ll check brightness across battery then go from pin 4 right to ground on battery to see if looks the same brightness. I’ll keep you guys posted.
Thanks.

 

The aftermarket parts are hit or miss. I went through three myself before the code stopped. The 1st was an Amazon sensor pretty much DOA. The 2nd sensor, made by Standard from rockauto worked for about a week, then when it failed, it brought down one of the 5 volt sensor supplies causing codes for the imrc valve, pedal assembly, the exhaust cam position sensor, the exhaust cam actuator, and 2 others I can't remember now. Unplugging the imrc cleared all of those codes. I did a warranty replacement with rock and that one is still working today.

 

Toddeand and Irontooth update on 2011 jeep patriot, I did install a refurbish ecm computer, and with new computer, light came back on, only showing the p2015 code, generic code for imrc actuator. P2006 code was gone saying the actuator was stuck closed with old computer. Engine light came on again like before... Per Toddeand stated he went through 3 parts before he got a good one.I changed out imrc actuator, napa did an exchange,second time removing and replacing this part, and light went out and stayed out. Drove around area, All codes cleared, got car inspected and it passed. Back in business.. Thank you guys for your help

 

ok my buddy was saying get another one. I got mine from Napa. It’s a Dorman. They have an echlin brand that’s more expensive. I might replace it with that one.

 

FWIW, I bought a NAPA Echlin Tech Expert throttle body a couple years ago and so far so good. They're supposedly new US manufactured as opposed to reman'd.

 

Thanks for the update.