I have a 2008 Jeep Patriot with a 2.4-liter engine, cannot find this sensor. Does anyone know where to find it?
kinney08
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I have a 2008 Jeep Patriot with a 2.4-liter engine, cannot find this sensor. Does anyone know where to find it?
From the service manual:
REMOVAL
The Crankshaft Position Sensor is in the rear of the engine block near the transmission.
If vehicle is All Wheel Drive the Power Transfer Unit must be removed, (Refer to 21 - TRANSMISSION/TRANSAXLE/POWER TRANSFER UNIT - REMOVAL).
1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
2. Raise vehicle and support.
3. Remove heat shield retaining bolt.
4. Remove heat shield.
5. Unlock and disconnect the electrical connector to the crankshaft position sensor.
6. Remove the crankshaft position sensor bolt.
7. Remove the sensor.
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Just had the same problem with the engine stuttering and traction control/check engine light come on.
I have some free time, not so much free money, so I am looking to do this myself. Can you help direct me to the Power Transfer Unit Removal instructions? First time on the forum so please forgive me I am a newbie!
I have some free time, not so much free money, so I am looking to do this myself. Can you help direct me to the Power Transfer Unit Removal instructions? First time on the forum so please forgive me I am a newbie!
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Crankshaft Sensor replacement
Just replaced my crankshaft sensor... good luck! Make sure you take off all the plastic parts (engine cover, battery access cover, and air filter box) and disconnect the battery. I had one heck of a time locating it and could not reach it from underneath the vehicle. I was standing on a barstool on the driver's side with half of my body down inside the Jeep. I finally found it after following the wires down the back of the engine by feeling my way down. You can't see the sensor or the bolt you have to take out to replace it. The best way I can explain how to get it out is to find the sensor by touch and place a 10mm deep well socket on the bolt (it is located above the sensor)then place a 12 inch extension onto that, and then you can attach a ratchet to remove the bolt. I couldn't do it with the whole combination put together because I could only use one hand, it's a tight space. When I put it back I had to put a small piece of paper inside the socket to make the bolt stay in nice & snug because I couldn't reach in to turn the bolt with my fingers. I again had to "build out" the connections one piece at a time. Put it all back together and reset the codes. The number 2 on the diagram is the location of the crankshaft sensor (looking at the engine from the driver's side).
Just replaced my crankshaft sensor... good luck! Make sure you take off all the plastic parts (engine cover, battery access cover, and air filter box) and disconnect the battery. I had one heck of a time locating it and could not reach it from underneath the vehicle. I was standing on a barstool on the driver's side with half of my body down inside the Jeep. I finally found it after following the wires down the back of the engine by feeling my way down. You can't see the sensor or the bolt you have to take out to replace it. The best way I can explain how to get it out is to find the sensor by touch and place a 10mm deep well socket on the bolt (it is located above the sensor)then place a 12 inch extension onto that, and then you can attach a ratchet to remove the bolt. I couldn't do it with the whole combination put together because I could only use one hand, it's a tight space. When I put it back I had to put a small piece of paper inside the socket to make the bolt stay in nice & snug because I couldn't reach in to turn the bolt with my fingers. I again had to "build out" the connections one piece at a time. Put it all back together and reset the codes. The number 2 on the diagram is the location of the crankshaft sensor (looking at the engine from the driver's side).
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That's why I'm always chewing gum when working this way. Spearmint works the best....
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First off, you should get a code for it. On a rare occasion, it won't throw a code, but most of the time when an electronic sensor has failed, it will throw a code. (this is probably more true in NEWER model vehicles)
I've not pulled the crank sensor on a patriot, so I have no idea what it looks like. (I suspect it's not much different than any other) But i've tested them in the past by switching a multimeter to DC, putting the red lead on the signally wire of the sensor, grounding the black lead, and have someone bump the ignition. It should give you around 10 volts, give or take. If it doesn't, it's not working.
I've not pulled the crank sensor on a patriot, so I have no idea what it looks like. (I suspect it's not much different than any other) But i've tested them in the past by switching a multimeter to DC, putting the red lead on the signally wire of the sensor, grounding the black lead, and have someone bump the ignition. It should give you around 10 volts, give or take. If it doesn't, it's not working.
Well in my case, it drove like crap and stalled, but also threw P0300, P0335 and P0315 codes.
So I made a video on how to replace it. There is a relearn procedure that has to be done afterwards.
YouTube Video Perfect
The 70mph to 40mph coast (x3) reset procedure is a little sketchy on the highway - I probably needed to do that really late at night or found a deserted country road but 70 on a country road is sketchy too.
BTW, I had code P0315 with traction control limp mode on and off prior to replacement and it hasn't come back after a couple days driving.
The YouTube video and explanation was perfect in this thread. Two 10mm and one 13mm for the heat shield and the sensor was 10mm. You need to remove heat shield to access CPS. I used a 1/4" drive 10mm socket and ratchet and that was small enough to remove the CPS. There isn't very much torque on any of the nuts so don't need much swing. The wire to the CPS is attached to the heat shield with a clip near the top of the shield and you can use that wire to feel your way to the sensor. Definitely remove airbox and top plastic cowl. You are working blind except for the top 10mm nut on the heat shield but my long arms had no problems.
The 70mph to 40mph coast (x3) reset procedure is a little sketchy on the highway - I probably needed to do that really late at night or found a deserted country road but 70 on a country road is sketchy too.
BTW, I had code P0315 with traction control limp mode on and off prior to replacement and it hasn't come back after a couple days driving.
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Without clearing the codes, will the car not start? Add to replacing my part at home and not having A scan tool, my car will not start. Is that because I did not clear the codes?
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