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What have you done to your Patriot today?

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#8,641 ·
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Autostart stopped working two months ago and I couldn’t figure which door sensor. No dashboard engine light and nothing to show what was wrong. I read one of the comments regarding the hood sensor. Ordered and replaced the hood latch sensor and auto start works again! (Jeep Patriot 15’ 85k mileage).
 
#8,642 ·
JCali7 said:
View attachment 101085

Autostart stopped working two months ago and I couldn’t figure which door sensor. No dashboard engine light and nothing to show what was wrong. I read one of the comments regarding the hood sensor. Ordered and replaced the hood latch sensor and auto start works again! (Jeep Patriot 15’ 85k mileage).
Click to expand...
 
#8,644 · (Edited)
Spirit of 76 said:
Changed spark plugs:
Used NGK ZFR5F-11
Spark plug gap: 0.043
Spark Plugs last changed: 5/9/21 27,840 miles
Changed 11/10/24 @40,100 miles
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I'd have to check exactly while ones, but I put Bosch Double Platinum (8105) plugs in about 80k miles ago. Still running strong. Checked a few months back, no measurable change in the gap. I see no reason to use copper plugs with modern ignition systems. I also use platinum/iridium plugs with my old cars that still use points.
 
#8,645 ·
STDog said:
I'd have to check exactly while ones, but I put iridium plugs in about 150k miles ago. Still running strong. Checked a few months back, no measurable change in the gap. I see no reason to use copper plugs with modern ignition systems. I also use iridium plugs with my old cars that still use points.
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Interesting. I'd switch the next time but always seemed to hear that our Jeeps just kinda like plain old copper cores the best and was just too lazy to give other things a try and stuck with plain old copper core NGKs. But if you have had good luck with an upgrade then that opens options.
 
#8,646 ·
Catflap1977 said:
Interesting. I'd switch the next time but always seemed to hear that our Jeeps just kinda like plain old copper cores the best and was just too lazy to give other things a try and stuck with plain old copper core NGKs. But if you have had good luck with an upgrade then that opens options.
Click to expand...
No so much an upgrade as just a longevity increase.
Performance wise I didn't notice any difference (didn't expect to either).

And I misremembered some.
It was Bosch Double Platinum, 8105 in June 2019.
(I had looked at the NGK and guess I changed my mind).
Checking other records I was at 180k (thought it was closer to 100k) then and now at 260.

I don't remember at all what I had before or when they might have been installed.
I don't have a record of plugs being purchased before.
 
#8,649 ·
Was more of a last night thing.
But I grenaded my PTU, at least that is what it sounds like. We were in some almost waist deep snow getting up to a camp spot and I had some traction ramps out. When both rear tires hit the ramps and got all the traction a loud bang and sounds like a ratchet in the front about behind the transmission. Got chains on the front and my buddy winched me up into camp. Called it a tomorrow problem.
Got the 4WD! light on but it drives fine on the street to get home a couple hours today. Any differential in wheel speed between front and rear like spinning in the snow I get clicking/ratchet sounds and no actual power going to the back.
 
#8,650 ·
Catflap1977 said:
Was more of a last night thing.
But I grenaded my PTU, at least that is what it sounds like. We were in some almost waist deep snow getting up to a camp spot and I had some traction ramps out. When both rear tires hit the ramps and got all the traction a loud bang and sounds like a ratchet in the front about behind the transmission. Got chains on the front and my buddy winched me up into camp. Called it a tomorrow problem.
Got the 4WD! light on but it drives fine on the street to get home a couple hours today. Any differential in wheel speed between front and rear like spinning in the snow I get clicking/ratchet sounds and no actual power going to the back.
Click to expand...
Ouch...glad you didn't have to drag it all the way home.
 
#8,651 ·
Sandstone said:
Ouch...glad you didn't have to drag it all the way home.
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Me too. I can pick up a PTU locally off a low mile wreck for cheap. But if it damaged the splines in the transmission I think it is a death sentence for it. Problem is I want to buy the part before doing the work to fix it. Not really an easy take a peek and see what I need sort of deal. Guess I could check the inspection cover on it. If I can't see anything wrong inside it might have wiped out the transmission to PTU splines....

I'm just worried that mine did the same as this.
 
#8,653 · (Edited)
Haven't had the 2010 Pat out for 5 wks, been using the 2021 JGC more.

I jumped in the Pat & off I go. Looked at the gas gauge realized I better stop for gas. Filled it up & paid the man then it hit me, tank vapor lock when I cap it off. Now I waiting for the sput & studder, stutter (pick one) Nothing, wait what, Nothing! What changed could it be the Factory Correct Patriot gas tank cap i put on 4 days ago.......Nah, Next fill-up (and I mean cap it off fill up) will Tell...

Riicr48
 
#8,654 ·
Riicr48@gmail.com said:
Haven't had the 2010 Pat out for 5 wks, been using the 2921 JGC more.

I jump in the Pat off I go look at the gas gauge oh better stop for gas. Fill it up paid the man and it hit me tank vapor lock when I cap it off or fill up the tank. Now I waiting for the sput & studder, stutter (pick one) Nothing, wait what Nothing--- what changed Could it be the Factory Correct Patriot gas tank cap i put on 4 days ago.......Nah, Next fill-up and I mean cap it off fill up will Te
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If I understand correctly, you had the ‘stall/sputter after fillup’ issue, and it went away after you didn’t run the Patriot for a while. There is a known issue with the design of the Patriot gas tank (shared with some other Chrysler/Dodge vehicles) in which the rollover valve at the top of the tank swells and becomes inoperative (open). The evap system then on startup delivers fuel instead of vapors to the engine, causing a fuel rich condition that can cause temporary sputtering or stalling shortly after starting the engine. The workaround is to not fill the tank.

I had this problem when I first got my 2010 Patriot a year ago. I went into workaround mode, only filling the tank about monthly to check the gas mileage. After a few months, the problem faded away and stopped. My theory is that, by not routinely wetting the valve with fuel, it shrinks back to a functional size.

Other good advice that I have read is to only fill the tank until the pump stops automatically, and don’t add any extra manually (e.g. - to round up the price), as that can cause other problems.

Here’s a post with a fuel tank disassembly in a thread that has lots of discussion on the issue, including about a proposed recall that was denied by the NHTSA.


So - If that’s the problem you had, the idle time that your Patriot endured probably ‘fixed’ it. At least temporarily.
 
#8,655 ·
Irontooth said:
If I understand correctly, you had the ‘stall/sputter after fillup’ issue, and it went away after you didn’t run the Patriot for a while. There is a known issue with the design of the Patriot gas tank (shared with some other Chrysler/Dodge vehicles) in which the rollover valve at the top of the tank swells and becomes inoperative (open). The evap system then on startup delivers fuel instead of vapors to the engine, causing a fuel rich condition that can cause temporary sputtering or stalling shortly after starting the engine. The workaround is to not fill the tank.

I had this problem when I first got my 2010 Patriot a year ago. I went into workaround mode, only filling the tank about monthly to check the gas mileage. After a few months, the problem faded away and stopped. My theory is that, by not routinely wetting the valve with fuel, it shrinks back to a functional size.

Other good advice that I have read is to only fill the tank until the pump stops automatically, and don’t add any extra manually (e.g. - to round up the price), as that can cause other problems.

Here’s a post with a fuel tank disassembly in a thread that has lots of discussion on the issue, including about a proposed recall that was denied by the NHTSA.


So - If that’s the problem you had, the idle time that your Patriot endured probably ‘fixed’ it. At least temporarily.
Click to expand...
That is the only problem I had with it......always knew how much in $ amount to put in not to cap it Off...

This time it slipped my mind...

Riicr48
 
#8,656 ·
#8,657 ·
Irontooth said:
If I understand correctly, you had the ‘stall/sputter after fillup’ issue, and it went away after you didn’t run the Patriot for a while. There is a known issue with the design of the Patriot gas tank (shared with some other Chrysler/Dodge vehicles) in which the rollover valve at the top of the tank swells and becomes inoperative (open). The evap system then on startup delivers fuel instead of vapors to the engine, causing a fuel rich condition that can cause temporary sputtering or stalling shortly after starting the engine. The workaround is to not fill the tank.

I had this problem when I first got my 2010 Patriot a year ago. I went into workaround mode, only filling the tank about monthly to check the gas mileage. After a few months, the problem faded away and stopped. My theory is that, by not routinely wetting the valve with fuel, it shrinks back to a functional size.

Other good advice that I have read is to only fill the tank until the pump stops automatically, and don’t add any extra manually (e.g. - to round up the price), as that can cause other problems.

Here’s a post with a fuel tank disassembly in a thread that has lots of discussion on the issue, including about a proposed recall that was denied by the NHTSA.


So - If that’s the problem you had, the idle time that your Patriot endured probably ‘fixed’ it. At least temporarily.
Click to expand...
Yes. That's exactly the problem....

Thank you for the info and cut out tank.
May I asked where you purchased the New tank?
 
#8,658 ·
I just passed the info along. You can try to PM the member who made the post that I linked to.

If you want to try to replace the tank, try checking the Mopar parts sites, such as:

Genuine OEM Mopar Parts and Accessories Online - Mopar Parts Giant

MoparPartsGiant.com is a trusted online store for Genuine OEM Mopar Parts and accessories. We offer fast shipping and wholesale prices. Superb customer service and online inventory make us the #1.
www.moparpartsgiant.com www.moparpartsgiant.com

The tank for my 2010 Patriot is around $850 (plus shipping)
 
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