I have 90,000 miles on my 2010 patriot. I’m thinking I’m overdue for spark plugs and my jeep sometimes kicks and feels rough accelerating. I found a video online and it appears pretty easy to replace but as a novice just wanted to seek any advice, recommendations on spark plugs to use and if any special tools are needed? I saw I may need a torque wrench and also wondering if some spark plugs are pre gapped! I imagine it may cost a couple hundred for a mechanic so thinking I may be able to handle this and save a couple bucks. Thanks
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mbu5003
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I have 90,000 miles on my 2010 patriot. I’m thinking I’m overdue for spark plugs and my jeep sometimes kicks and feels rough accelerating. I found a video online and it appears pretty easy to replace but as a novice just wanted to seek any advice, recommendations on spark plugs to use and if any special tools are needed? I saw I may need a torque wrench and also wondering if some spark plugs are pre gapped! I imagine it may cost a couple hundred for a mechanic so thinking I may be able to handle this and save a couple bucks. Thanks
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I use Autolite copper core (#5224); they're inexpensive and they work, but others have used iridiums successfully. Kind of depends on your budget.
I wouldn't count on them being properly gapped out of the box.
If you don't have gap gauge, depending on where you buy them they may have one you can use.
I wouldn't count on them being properly gapped out of the box.
If you don't have gap gauge, depending on where you buy them they may have one you can use.
I usually use the OEM NGKs, but not always. Many plugs do come pre-gapped and some will even say not to try gapping them yourself. My Patriot is the first vehicle on which I've ever torqued spark plugs. Historically I went to snug and 3/4 turn further. Back in the day plugs were 10,000 mile items so changing them was pretty regular. I used to clean and re-use my plugs, too. Those days are over.
And yes, 90,000 miles is way past due. I'm a little surprised that your Patriot hasn't complained long before this -- running rough, throwing codes, low power, etc. The first time I changed my plugs they came out really hard, almost scary. I always use anti-seize and haven't had a problem since.
As for tools, you'll need the torque wrench, the socket, and probably an extension because the plugs are way down there. Also a torx screwdriver to remove the coils. I use the coils to insert my new plugs to avoid cross-threading. There are videos and how-to threads on this site, too. Of course you'll be nervous the first time, but really it's quite straightforward. Once you've done it you'll wonder why the dealer charges so much. Even if you have to buy the tools, you'll save enough money to take the kids out for ice cream every weekend for the rest of the summer!
And yes, 90,000 miles is way past due. I'm a little surprised that your Patriot hasn't complained long before this -- running rough, throwing codes, low power, etc. The first time I changed my plugs they came out really hard, almost scary. I always use anti-seize and haven't had a problem since.
As for tools, you'll need the torque wrench, the socket, and probably an extension because the plugs are way down there. Also a torx screwdriver to remove the coils. I use the coils to insert my new plugs to avoid cross-threading. There are videos and how-to threads on this site, too. Of course you'll be nervous the first time, but really it's quite straightforward. Once you've done it you'll wonder why the dealer charges so much. Even if you have to buy the tools, you'll save enough money to take the kids out for ice cream every weekend for the rest of the summer!
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Read up on "easing out" old spark plugs on an aluminum engine (assuming maybe yours been in forever?).
Be gentle if you need to unlclip some of the ignition coil wiring plugs. I broke off one of the tiny tabs that locks it in.
The Patriot is one of the easiest to change plugs on. Lots of threads and videos showing how.
Just to stir the pot - after MUCH OCD research, on my last change I installed the "new" NGK Ruthenium plugs and they are working just fine. Got to be daring at least a few times in my life.
Be gentle if you need to unlclip some of the ignition coil wiring plugs. I broke off one of the tiny tabs that locks it in.
The Patriot is one of the easiest to change plugs on. Lots of threads and videos showing how.
Just to stir the pot - after MUCH OCD research, on my last change I installed the "new" NGK Ruthenium plugs and they are working just fine. Got to be daring at least a few times in my life.
appreciate it everyone! I'm a little hesitant after hearing about breaking spark plugs due to the age of them (14 years) and never replaced. Other than that seems relatively easy.
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1,597 Posts
When I was using the specified NGK "copper core" (actually nickle tipped) spark plugs they were always very worn at 30,000 miles. I cannot comprehend them lasting 90,000 miles. Regarding "breaking spark plugs", I think that is mostly a concern on specific older Ford truck models. Our concern is to not strip out the softer aluminum engine head threads IF you have seizing going on. With NO experience (feel) behind you, it is a legitimate concern. Too bad you cannot find an experienced friend to assist this first time. At least investigate youtube videos showing the procedure.
Yeah, my mechanic said roughly $175 to replace but my old man (plumber his whole life) will give me a hand when trying to remove them to try and avoid breaking and worst case I’ll take them to mechanic if it seems too stuck to avoid risk of further damage. Yeah, after reading these comments, you’d think I’d have an engine light come on or something. My buddy has experience changing plugs and letting me borrow his torque wrench but didn’t want to be liable if something goes wrong, which is understandable
I really hope your plugs aren't seized, and I doubt they are. It would take a lot of torque to break a spark plug, more than I think an average man could generate with a basic ratchet. Long-handled torque wrench? Still seems unlikely. Please let us know how your story ends.
Hey all - got all my parts/tools and plan to install this week. question - while i was gapping the plugs, i accidentally dropped one on the ground - is that still ok to use? Also, for gapping, it says .43, does that mean it should stop at .43 or as long as part of the plug is on the .43 mark, it should be good?
Since yours landed on the ground, it's probably no problem. If it fell on something really hard like cement, look it over carefully for cracked ceramic or a damaged electrode. At worst it will misfire and you'll have to change it -- just remember which cylinder you put it in. If you're really nervous about it, what's a couple bucks? Just buy a replacement for your own peace of mind.
As for gapping, I'm not sure I understand your question. Using a feeler gauge or the old-fashion wire type, the tool should make contact but not drag through the gap. If you're using the newer round style, the gapping tool should make contact with the tip and the electrode at .043. If you have to force it, the gap is too close; if there is room to spare then the gap is too open.
This video might be helpful. He's setting his to .050 and you want to go to .043, but the same principle applies.
As for gapping, I'm not sure I understand your question. Using a feeler gauge or the old-fashion wire type, the tool should make contact but not drag through the gap. If you're using the newer round style, the gapping tool should make contact with the tip and the electrode at .043. If you have to force it, the gap is too close; if there is room to spare then the gap is too open.
This video might be helpful. He's setting his to .050 and you want to go to .043, but the same principle applies.
thanks all! I managed to change em. Jeep started and no check engine. I’ll see how it rides later. These were long overdue. The pic is the old ones and they corroded so bad the gaps were huge. Appreciate everyone’s help and advice. Hardest partwas the spark plug socket kept getting stuck when installing the new ones
Yeah, those plugs look pretty tired. BTW, when starting the new plugs I usually use the coil pack to minimize the possibility of cross-threading. I've seen where others use flexible tubing.
Appreciate it! I just used the socket extension and hand tightened it at first then used the torque but good for future note
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when i did mine recently, i just barely put the plug in the rubber grip thing inside the socket, got it started by hand, pulled off the socket, repeat for each, and then pushed the rubber insert out to go back and tighten them all up
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