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Discussion starter · #21 ·
Sandstone said:
If the noise is coming from the transmission, then (along with the transmission codes) I'd say you're looking at transmission replacement.

You may want to take it to a transmission shop that knows Jatco CVT's for a second opinion.
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That’s the strange part there’s no transmission codes and I hear something but it’s not super audible like before removing the brakes. I posted 2 clips of it.
 
Discussion starter · #23 ·
Sandstone said:
There were transmission codes in the pic you posted (p0777 / p0717).

The shudder / judder (belt slipping) is a common sign of transmission failure as noted on the Sonnax page.

I'd get a shop to take a look at it.
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Yea

p0777 (Pressure Control Solenoid “B” Stuck On)
p0717 (Turbine/Input Shaft Speed Sensor “A” Circuit No Signal)

They were old codes and when I changed the fluid and filters they went away and haven't come back.
 
#24 ·
The codes may have gone, but the problem persists, so the fluid and filters change apparently didn't solve the issue.

I may be wrong, but I think the transmission is probably shot.

But maybe a qualified shop can offer another insight and things work out for the better.
 
Discussion starter · #25 ·
Sandstone said:
The codes may have gone, but the problem persists, so the fluid and filters change apparently didn't solve the issue.

I may be wrong, but I think the transmission is probably shot.

But maybe a qualified shop can offer another insight and things work out for the better.
Click to expand...
I'm going to take it to shop when I can but I was trying to exhaust all my efforts before doing so 😆

I need to buy one of those Dip sticks to check levels as well. I tried the engine dipstick trick but nothing showed on that dipstick, like dry.
 
#26 · (Edited)
The engine dipstick trick only works on fully hot fluid, like after a long drive and parked on a level surface. Then there should be a little fluid on the end, below the low engine oil mark. I use a universal dipstick from advance auto and I marked the various millimeter distances from the tip by scratching a line with a sharp tool. I did 10 mm increments starting at 10 to 20, then 5 mm increments from 25 to 45.
 
Discussion starter · #27 ·
todde702 said:
The engine dipstick trick only works on fully hot fluid, like after a long drive and parked on a level surface. Then there should be a little fluid on the end, below the low engine oil mark. I use a universal dipstick from advance auto and I marked the various millimeter distances from the tip by scratching a line with a sharp tool. I did 10 mm increments starting at 10 to 20, then 5 mm increments from 25 to 45.
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Ahh ok and the tranny was only at 60C when i checked. I went ahead and ordered a 9336 Dipstick though
 
Discussion starter · #28 · (Edited)
The next question I have which is the last resort. If I do end up swapping transmissions; is it plug and play if I can source a good low mileage one. Or will it have to be flashed ?

I also want to add I used

5QTs of Castrol Transmax
2QTS Valvoline CVT
 
#29 ·
Durvelle27 said:
is it plug and play if I can source a good low mileage one. Or will it have to be flashed ?
Click to expand...
At minimum, the EEprom (#2 below) on the side of the valve body will need to be swapped from old to new or you'll get a mismatch error.

Image



Image
 
Discussion starter · #33 ·
Want to give an update

Got the 9336 Dipstick and checked my levels and it seems off

Transmission was sitting at 43*C using the APP to monitor temps on a level surface and fluid still looks like it’s extremely low.

I measured 7QTs out when I drained and dropped the pan and I added 7QTs back.

I marked where the fluid showed since it’s hard to see as it’s clear.
Image
 
Discussion starter · #34 ·
Durvelle27 said:
Want to give an update

Got the 9336 Dipstick and checked my levels and it seems off

Transmission was sitting at 43*C using the APP to monitor temps on a level surface and fluid still looks like it’s extremely low.

I measured 7QTs out when I drained and dropped the pan and I added 7QTs back.

I marked where the fluid showed since it’s hard to see as it’s clear.
View attachment 100622
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Ok so I checked it again today except this time I let the transmission get to 55C. This time the fluid only showed upto about 20mm

Based on the chart 55C should be about 29mm-42mm

43C should be about 27mm-40mm
 
#35 ·
When you add fluid, I'd suggest only adding it to the lower end or middle of the range. ie: at 55c, I'd fill it only to 30-35mm. In these CVT's less is definitely better than even 1mm too much.
 
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#37 ·
I don't remember how much per mm, but i'd say cups, not quarts. Since you're already reading fluid on the dipstick, just go slow until you get a feel for it.

Yes, low fluid can cause issues, like slipping.

Too much fluid, even just 1mm too much WILL cause the CVT to overheat, whine, and possibly limp mode. I took my Patriot into a shop to have my right front CV axle replaced because I wasn't able to get the old one to pull out of the trans. A few days later my CVT started whining, overheating, and putting the vehicle in limp mode. I couldn't figure out why. I ended up throwing a bunch of time and $$ at it, only to find out after a few agonizing weeks that the shop had put in just a tiny lil bit too much fluid to replace what leaked out when they replaced the axle.
 
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Discussion starter · #38 ·
mr_et2 said:
I don't remember how much per mm, but i'd say cups, not quarts. Since you're already reading fluid on the dipstick, just go slow until you get a feel for it.

Yes, low fluid can cause issues, like slipping.

Too much fluid, even just 1mm too much WILL cause the CVT to overheat, whine, and possibly limp mode. I took my Patriot into a shop to have my right front CV axle replaced because I wasn't able to get the old one to pull out of the trans. A few days later my CVT started whining, overheating, and putting the vehicle in limp mode. I couldn't figure out why. I ended up throwing a bunch of time and $$ at it, only to find out after a few agonizing weeks that the shop had put in just a tiny lil bit too much fluid to replace what leaked out when they replaced the axle.
Click to expand...
Ok so I’ll start by adding some fluid by the OZ and see how it goes
 
#39 ·
mr_et2 said:
When you add fluid, I'd suggest only adding it to the lower end or middle of the range. ie: at 55c, I'd fill it only to 30-35mm. In these CVT's less is definitely better than even 1mm too much.
Click to expand...
I've seen you mention this before but I never had an overheat myself, for almost two years with 10mm too much fluid in above the high mark. The dealer did my cvt fluid swap. I didn't find this out until I changed the return cartridge filter and thought I'd need to add fluid back. Instead I sucked fluid out until it was in the middle for the temp.
 
#40 ·
todde702 said:
I've seen you mention this before but I never had an overheat myself, for almost two years with 10mm too much fluid in above the high mark. The dealer did my cvt fluid swap. I didn't find this out until I changed the return cartridge filter and thought I'd need to add fluid back. Instead I sucked fluid out until it was in the middle for the temp.
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I remember reading on a Nissan forum that when too much fluid is in the CVT that it gets whipped up into a foam by some rotating part... can't remember exactly which part, and in it's foamy state cannot flow out to the trans cooler which in turn causes it to overheat. With mine, after about 15 minutes on the highway I'd end up in limp mode because of it overheating. I don't remember the exact course of things I went thru when trying to get it fixed, but I do remember that as soon as I removed some fluid all the issues went away and I drove it for 3 more years after that with no more trans issues.
 
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