Sounds like the transmission pump flow control valve is bad.

This happens when the fluid gets contaminated with small metal bits that eventually score the flow control valve and bore causing pressure loss.

The result is performance and codes like you're seeing.

Unfortunately, you can't get to it without taking the trans apart (vid below).

 

Sounds like the transmission pump flow control valve is bad.

This happens when the fluid gets contaminated with small metal bits that eventually score the flow control valve and bore causing pressure loss.

The result is performance and codes like you're seeing.

Unfortunately, you can't get to it without taking the trans apart (vid below).

That's originally what I thought however when I put the pedal to the ground and nothing happens not even rpm go up that tells me it's on the engine side . Pedal or throttle. Because if rpm don't align right or the tbs is bad the truck doesn't know what your doing witch will cause the delayed shifting high rpm? I understand what ur saying and typicly I'd agree however with nothing on the pedal at times it sends me in a difrent direction witch mopar is notorious for
My chetokee said transmision failure on the dash lost all gears . Back and forth to shop turned out to be evap problem....

 

Does it rev in neutral / park? If so then it's more likely a trans problem.

Bad throttle bodies will usually set a throttle body code or the "lightning bolt" light comes on.

 

When i was finally able to replicate the dead pedal my wife was saying and it did it from a stop sighn then did it backing into the driveway
Sitting in park I hit the pedal and their was a 4 secound delay before it reved .that is why I have changed my mode from tranny to throttle body issue probably the sensor cause I shut the car off turned it on after that and it would rev normal again in park and nuteral. Tried Attached a video of the delay but it won't let me

 

Maybe doing the throttle reset or full computer reset would help? I'd lean towards the full reset since you also have TCM issues. Disconnect both battery leads and zip tie them together or otherwise connect them to each other so as to fully discharge any residual power in capacitors and leave it that way for ten minutes or so.

 

TBH, I'm not sure if that will work or not

There's several different ELM327 adapters around, some of the less expensive ones can work but aren't the fastest when it comes to data speed which means slower updates when troubleshooting.

I bought this one, but it's a tad on the pricey side:

OBDLink MX+

The OBDLink® MX+ is the top-of-the-line OBD II scan tool to use with forscan and comes with bluetooth. Get one here today and gain access to your vehicle!

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I've got this one and it works great. Had it for several years now.

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