You might want to get a scangauge or put Torque on your phone so you can monitor the trans temp directly and see how hot it thinks it is.

According to the manual, the TCM also uses data from other temp sensors, like oil, intake, coolant, and ambient air to calculate for certain conditions, so maybe one of those is an outlier and causing an issue.

Also, I don't know if this is any help or not, but a mechanic on the NICO boards posted about how the coolant mix being off can cause a problem.

https://forums.nicoclub.com/rogue-cvt-issues-fail-safe-and-whining-sound-fixes-t563940.html

 

Interesting. I had not seen this. Thank you. After reading through this post there is some information that I had not considered at all. I did drain and refill the coolant about a month ago. I simply mixed the coolant 50/50 with water and dumped it in. I don't have a refractometer or any other way of testing the protection temp of the coolant. I would have never even thought it was that important. Perhaps this is the missing link and I caused this issue myself by doing what I otherwise considered preventive maintenance. I had not done a drain/flush/refill since I bought the Patriot. at the time it was at about 180K. I have never had engine cooling issues, but just figured it was well past time to do it, so I did.

 

Maybe stop towing a trailer as the so-called weak cvt can not handle the load ? Maybe get a Pickup Truck to haul or tow things. My 2 cents.

 

It's rated to tow 2000 lbs. I am not nor have I ever exceeded that. I have other vehicles that I do use when towing heavier items like my tractor, or other larger loads. I see no reason to not use it as long as I am not going over it's rated capacity.

You might consider replacing the CVT Cooler filter. All patriot CVT's are equipped with them (not just 08-10). It's easy to do just remove the battery hold down bracket and the cover plate is right there. You will need the Filter and O-Ring just search Ebay for: "JF011E-RE0F10A-CVT-COOLER-RETURN" for the filter and: "Nissan-216061XF0A-Overheating-CVT-Transmission-Oil-Cooler-O-RING" for the O-ring.

Thanks. I replace the cooler filter at each fluid change. I also replace the in pan "screen filter" rather than just cleaning it. They are both cheap, so I just change both each time I do a fluid change. The most expensive part of the change is always the CVT fluid itself.

Might your tranny be low on fluid? Twice I had leaks, both fixed under warranty. There were no symptoms, i.e., no spots on the garage floor and no performance problems. It could be overheating because of less fluid to dissipate the heat.

I'm not sure. I haven't checked it yet. I will.

 

You might consider replacing the CVT Cooler filter. All patriot CVT's are equipped with them (not just 08-10). It's easy to do just remove the battery hold down bracket and the cover plate is right there. You will need the Filter and O-Ring just search Ebay for: "JF011E-RE0F10A-CVT-COOLER-RETURN" for the filter and: "Nissan-216061XF0A-Overheating-CVT-Transmission-Oil-Cooler-O-RING" for the O-ring.

I also recommend 30k between CVT Oil change intervals under normal driving, if your towing you might consider 20K. You can purchase 12 quarts of Mopar CVT fluid on Ebay for $88 shipped. if you have the have the aftermarket oil pan with drain plug you can change your CVT fluid twice for that price.

 

Might your tranny be low on fluid? Twice I had leaks, both fixed under warranty. There were no symptoms, i.e., no spots on the garage floor and no performance problems. It could be overheating because of less fluid to dissipate the heat.

 

Hrm, I've heard of too much fluid causing it to whine and foam, but too little is an interesting thought. Changing that extra filter might help, as the higher revs from it being a FD2 probably aren't doing very much good. 50k should be just fine for a fluid/filter change interval, though 30k is of course a bit safer.

Some things that may interest you though:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B009PJJG1Q?tag=jeeppatriotconvert-20 Side note, this will stick out of the CVT fill tube about 6 inches too far when fully inserted and therefore should not be left in.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00Z7NXLPQ?tag=jeeppatriotconvert-20

https://www.amsoil.com/shop/by-product/transmission-fluid/automatic/synthetic-cvt-fluid/

https://www.amazon.com/Valvoline-Co...d=1510936595&sr=1-1&keywords=valvoline+continuously+variable+transmission+fluid

https://www.amazon.com/Jeep-Patriot.../ref=sr_1_1?keywords=haynes+manual+jeep+patriot&qid=1554779493&s=gateway&sr=8-1

 

30K is way too often. I drive 86 miles each way to work. If I change the CVT fluid every 30K, I would be changing it every two months. I think 50K is more than reasonable and I haven't had any issues with my 50K changes until now. And I'm still only 7K from another change. I am not convinced that there is anything actually wrong with the fluid or the trans. Based on the fact that I got the light, but no whine and no degradation of performance it certainly doesn't fit the usual mode of "failure". I am more inclined to think that some other sensor or something flaked out and caused the light to trip, but other sensors were reading normally so the PCM didn't put the CVT into "safe mode". I didn't have my scanner with me when it happened. Once I got home everything looked normal. And, driving to work this morning under the exact same conditions it was uneventful and my scanner didn't pick up anything abnormal.
I have the dipstick. I won't use the pan with the drain plug because you can't inspect and clean the magnets or clean/change the screen filter without dropping the pan anyway. Changing the fluid without doing those things kind of seems like doing the job half-assed to me. Walmart sells Castrol transmax CVT fluid for 6 bucks a quart. And one of the 4 walmart's near me sells Amalie CVT fluid in a 12 quart case for 76 bucks. I'm sure Amsoil is the best of the best, but I'm not paying what they want.

 

Haha, can't blame you for not wanting to pay that much. I can understand wanting to make sure to clean the magnets every time too, especially given the reputation of the transmission, however using a drain plug to get 95% or more of the fluid out before dropping the pan could be a bit less messy. If nothing else, that at least can make it useful. Just bought Valvoline CVT fluid from my local parts store, they charged me 11 bucks a quart but the fluid has gotten a little pricier and they were doing something nice for me...plus they're local. As I understand the Valvoline is a decent second to Amsoil with Castrol being a close 3rd on this front, so that Walmart-Castrol deal is probably your best bet, as the price seems to make you understandably more comfortable with using their fluids.

 

Hi DangerAaron

if you have a jeep patriot 2014, maybe you don have a CVT transsmision, anda maybe you have been used a wrong fluid.

check what transmision do you have.

I have understood that the jeep patriot since 2014 to 2017 have the 6 speed 6F24 transsmision.

 

...I have understood that the jeep patriot since 2014 to 2017 have the 6 speed 6F24 transsmision.

Except for models with the 2.0l engine or the FDII package, which is what Aaron has.

 

UPDATE

So this morning I left for work. 2 miles down the road I had to pull over to take a picture of my dash. 200K Miles in my 2014 Patriot.

Then farther along my route to work I had the same thing happen with the trans over heat light. I got a ding and the light, but no degradation of performance. No loud whine, no slow down to 40MPH. Just the light. This time though I had the torque app running when it happened. Very interesting screen shots below.

When the light came on I took a screen shot that shows trans temp at 197.6. I have seen it higher than this in the past without the overheat light. You can see the "revs". I was traveling at 65MPH at this point.

I pulled over put the trans in neutral, set the brake, and activated my flashers. at that point the trans temp reads 201.2. You can see the revs are at idle. I expect a slight increase due to not forcing a 65MPH breeze over the radiator and trans cooler.

Almost exactly 3 minutes later the light went out. At that point the Torque app shows that my trans temp was reading 203.0. Higher still, but somehow the light went out and I'm good to go!

I drove the rest of the way to work without issue. I changed the fluid and filters on April 12th. I used Valvoline CVT-4 fluid bought at Walmart for 7.58 per quart. Still have the receipt. Clearly this is not a fluid condition issue. There has got to be some other input that is triggering this light, but not triggering "limp mode". I know a dealer will tell me "There are no active or stored fault codes" and try to send me on my way or talk me into trading in my Patriot. This is something I really want to figure out.

 

Weird.

Keep us posted, I'd like to know what you find.

 

It's kind of a bittersweet thing... I was all excited to post the picture of my dash showing 200K, and then I got the trans temp light.

On another note, yesterday was about 10 degrees warmer than the day before (when this happened). On my way home I had the torque app open and watching it. I saw the trans temp go as high as 212. Never any light, never any trans whine. Nothing. So clearly the 197 that was displayed when I got the light is not truly an "overtemp" situation. Not that we already didn't know that, but still.

So, I have heard that the trans temp light doesn't just trigger from a straight reading of trans temp, but from a combination of trans temp, Coolant temp, outside air temp, and possibly other things. I recently flushed and refilled the radiator. And what I notice if watching the torque app is the coolant temp rising to about 202 and then you can see the thermostat open and the temps drop. Then as the temp cools the thermostat will start to close and the temps will slowly come back up. Repeat repeatedly..... The trans temp follows the coolant temp. This makes sense. This tells me that all the thermostats in both the engine cooling system and the trans cooler are working properly.

I usually don't pay much attention to the outside air temp reading on the dash. I switched out some of the "gauges" on my torque app's monitoring page to "ambient air temp" and "intake air temperature". I am wondering if one of these temp sensors is flaking out and possibly triggering this? I would think if the intake air temp sensor is flaking out I would get a Fault code due to it being tied into the fuel delivery and emissions control systems. But I've been wrong before. At least for right now, this is the only thing I can think of that would present this way.
I'm open to suggestions, but at least to this point it is a pretty random event. Happened the first time back in April and now again in June. It's difficult to troubleshoot something that only pops up every three months or so.

 

More info....

I found this post on a Mitsubishi Forum. Talking about the JATCO CVT in some Outlanders. There is one intersting bit here about an android app called CVTz50 that works with bluetooth or wifi ELM327 adapters. I am not sure if it works with Chrylser vehicles, but I downloaded it and will try it and report back. It is designed for Nissan vehicles but apparently works on the CVT equipped Outlanders, so I am hopeful. It seems to have more features specifically for CVT monitoring than the traditional scanner apps and even Torque or Dashcommander.

https://mitsubishiforum.com/forum/mitsubishi-outlander-10/information-about-maintenance-outlander-cvt-2014-2016-a-50085/

Secondly I came across a Chrysler training manual for the CVT. I am still reading through it, but thought I would post it here in case anyone else finds it useful.

https://techauthorityonlinedemo.extra.chrysler.com/service/mds2002/workbooks/en_US/8169907064.pdf

 

After reading through the CVT operation and diagnostic guide linked in my previous post. It sounds like I may have a "TTS" (transmission temperature sensor) flaking out. The sensor is mounted on the valve body and I am not sure what if anything I can do outside if opening up the trans or, if the sensor is even a procurable part. Hopefully I am wrong on this and it's something simpler that so far I am missing. I am going to try and see if the CVTz50 app will work with my jeep and see what it lets me monitor specifically on the transmission and see what happens.

 

Did you ever monitor cvt towing a trailer ?

 

This weekend, I towed my 5x8 utility trailer with zero turn mower while I had torque and CVTz50 running. It shows nothing different than without the trailer hooked up. I'm really not surprised by this. This is the heaviest thing I tow and the longest distance (about 10 miles each way) I do this every other week to mow a 3 acre building lot that I will be building a new house on this fall. Combined the trailer and mower weigh 960 lbs. I also use the trailer to haul trash to the landfill twice a month, but that is even lighter. the heaviest I have seen at the landfill scales is is a difference of 400 lbs after unloading. Add in the trailer weight and that totals less than 700lbs. Both are well below the 2000 lbs tow capacity of my patriot. The landfill is 6 miles away. So either way, I'm not towing anything for an extended period of time and quite frankly the trailer itself is lighter than the stuff that people drive around with daily in their Patriot. While I admit that towing with the CVT is not the greatest idea, I am in no way pushing the limits outlined in the owners manual. If towing less than 1000lbs twice a month for 20 miles round trip is that detrimental to the CVT, then why would the manufacturer give it a 2000lb capacity?

 

update on CVTz50 app:

In post #24 I posted about an app I heard about on another forum called CVTz50. I downloaded it and ran it for 4 days while driving. It currently costs 5 bucks in the google play store. Overall it's a really neat application and has some very useful features. It also leaves with more questions than I had when I started all this.....

First the cool stuff: It is expressly built to read and display information on Nissan vehicles equipped with a JATCO CVT transmission. What I found is that it works with a JATCO CVT equipped Patriot to a point. IT also seems to read directly from the TCM (transmission control module) as opposed from most of these apps which pull data from the PCM/ECU. It shows a lot of info that other apps of this type don't. CVT stepper motor position, Torque converter lock up, CVT gear ratio etc.

Now the unfortunate stuff: Being as this was designed expressly for Nissan vehicles there are features that do not work. (fluid deterioration counter, engine breaking adjustment, idle speed adjustment) When trying those features it gives an error message. Apparently Nissan (and Mitsubishi) have an algorithm in their TCM programming that looks at trans temp and RPM and then assigns it a numerical value. for every set block of time that the trans is operated within a certain temp and RPM range the counter increases by 1, 2, 3 etc. Once the counter reaches a certain point it illuminates a service light that hopefully prompts an owner to take the vehicle in for service. A diagnostic scan would show that counter and prompt a dealer service department to change the trans fluid and filters. This got left out of Jeeps programming. Also the fact that it reads directly from the TCM means that the numbers don't match what others apps like it are reporting.

Example in screen shots below. There is a shot of CVTz50 and Torque taken seconds apart from each other after arriving at work this morning. CVTz50 shows and engine coolant temp of 201 degrees F, and a trans temp of 171 degrees F. I also had torque running on my phone, I switched to it and the coolant temp reads 199.4 degrees F, and the trans temp reads 197.6 degrees F. That is a pretty big discrepancy in trans temp readings only seconds apart between the two apps. I'm not sure which to believe is correct at this point. Torque reading from the ECU or CVTz50 reading from the TCM? Is one of the apps off, if so which one? Is this split due to the apps reading from different "computers"? I can't answer those questions right now. And either way, neither has even come close to showing a temperature that would be a true "over temperature situation" for the transmission.

Overall I think the CVTz50 app is a good app for JATCO CVT equipped vehicles, even if some of the Nissan specific features don't work. It certainly shows information that you wouldn't be able to see without it or proprietary dealership diagnostic programs. It also reports that in my just over 200K miles that I have a total of 5804.7 hours on my transmission 4734.8 of those in a "warmed up" condition. Interesting. That's a lot of hours. More than I would have thought. It's a little depressing that I have spent that much time behind the wheel of a vehicle since July of 2013. Talk about a chunk of my life I will never get back.....
It shows an inactive fault code in the TCM (P161b), but it shows it at 0.0 hours..... That code is a battery disconnect/TCM fault and from what I can tell looks like it was set at vehicle assembly. it shows no current active or stored codes within the TCM of may Patriot currently.

 

Since the thermistor is located on the valve body, it should be reporting pan temperature. Easy way to compare is to shoot the pan with an infrared thermometer. I picked one up cheap from Amazon and it's quite accurate. I compared readings with a very expensive one the electricians here at work use on 24KV switch gear.

I always thought the bypass for the oil cooler was temperature operated but after reading that tech report on the CVT I stand corrected. It operates on pressure.

However, failure of the bypass in open mode will still result in the oil cooler being bypassed and poor cooling performance and trans overheating the result. It should always be ruled out when troubleshooting an overheating issue. Once again that infrared thermometer can help by taking readings on all 4 lines.