P0032 - O2 Sensor 1/1 Heater Circuit High
P0700 - Transaxle Control System Malfunction
P2010 - Intake Manifold Runner Control Circuit High Bank 1
P2017 - Intake Manifold Runner Position Sensor/Switch Circuit High Bank 1
U0121 - Lost Communication With Anti-Lock Brake System Module
U0416 - Invalid Data Received From Vehicle Dynamics Control Module
U1110 - Lost Vehicle Speed Message
U1120 - Lost Wheel Distance Message

Wow, that's quite the laundry list. The first thing that comes to mind with all those codes, and your front marker light/blinker being out is bad grounds. Not exactly uncommon on Patriots, especially up north. Either that or a TIPM issue. But I would definitely check all the grounds first.

 

Hello All,

So I have been seeing this problem ~1 out of every 10 days or so.

Basically, I start the pat up in the morning and begin driving. After putting it in drive and taking off, the speedometer stops working (drops to zero) and the e brake light comes on (I am confident that the ebrake is not in an active position). Also, When I use the passenger blinker, I get a warning on the dash that the passenger front blinker has stopped working.

A bit more info:

The blinker appears to be completely off, by that i mean the bulb is turned off before the blinker is even used (generally it is illuminated when it is not being used for signalling)

while driving, this problem might disappear for a few seconds, as the speedometer will display the correct speed and the locks will trigger.

I have noticed that the ebrake light will come on when i go over harsh bumps. Think small pothole at 60km/h. after it has turned on, lifting the ebrake handle will turn it off. I don't know if this information is relevant to the problem but I figure I should include everything I can.

This problem usually goes away within the day. For example I drove the vehicle multiple times today, and then tonight i used it again and the problem was absent.

I suspect this is some kind of a grounding issue, as this vehicle has a history of that (Bucking/Hesitation/Studdering (It's not the sparkplugs))

As mentioned in the linked post, the passenger headlight ground was bad so I cut the wire and tied it to a bolt to solve the issue, I'm wondering if perhaps this same ground point could be returning with more issues?

I am very curious as to how the speedometer and blinker are related

One last thing, I have the following codes showing on the vehicle:
P0032
P0700
P2010
P2017
U0121
U0416
U1110
U1120


Any help/suggestions/leads would be greatly appreciated!

if I left any important info out then please let me know and I'll be as responsive as possible

Yes, it's most likely the grounds, as I explained in the other post. You should redo all the wires, not just the one.

 

For clarification, below is the diagram for the anti-lock brake module. It reads the wheel speed sensors and the dynamic control module and supplies the data to the cluster (speedometer).

It uses ground G110, as does o2 sensor 1-1 (diagram below) , which is the same ground as the failed passenger headlight and blinker.

 

Incidently, the brake fluid level sensor also uses G110.

 

Incidently, the brake fluid level sensor also uses G110.

View attachment 95772

Thank you very much for the reply.
I had previously redone the ground connection for all 5 wires and replaced the loop connector.
I opened the hood to have a look at it, and for whatever reason, I didn’t tighten the bolt down onto the connector all the way.

tightened the bolt and so far have not observed the problem again.
I will post again here if the problem reappears, and thank you both for the replies!

 

Sandstone, you have an amazing wealth of knowledge about Patriots!

 

Good to hear, thanks for the update.

 

I bought a used 2010 Patriot Limited last spring and various lights on the dash. Being a "likes to work on cars" guy I saw that this was going to be an interesting journey. One thing I found on the internet was that there was a ground connection on the passenger side of the engine compartment, I think seven (7) wires, were all on that one ground post. All of these wires were crimped into one round lug. I cut the wires off at the lug, cleaned the terminal really well with a toothbrush sized wire brush, and place a new ring terminal on each of the wires. I then wire brushed both sides of the new ring terminals and put all of these back onto the ground terminal. All but two of the lights on the dash went away. I still have a "ABS" light and a "Stabilitrack" light. I went to a local garage to have them use their code scanner on this and the minute the mechanic saw the vehicle he told me that I would have a code for a "low voltage ABS module pump", sure enough that was the only code he pulled up. He informed me that the part to fix this would be $460 and labor would run around $200. He asked if the brakes felt good and they are actually very good. He suggested to continue to drive the Pat with the lights on until I felt that there was a problem with the braking. Now the "ABS" and "Stabilitrack" lights will go off for a few days and come back on for a few days. Small annoyance to put up with for me. I got the "left front turn signal lamp out" recently. This is quite a task to get to the turn signal. You have to jack the Pat up, remove the inner fender well (a rubbery material) to access the turn signal lamp. It was not the lamp itself, there is a wiring pigtail with a plastic end on it, another plastic piece that fits into this one, then the lamp plugs into that part. The first piece has the little red tab which slides over to lock the first piece to the second plastic piece. The tiny hook on the red tab of the first piece had broken off therefore the two pieces would not lock together to make a good electrical connection telling the computer that the turn lamp was not working. It took some ingenuity, some small wire and electrical tape to make these two plastic pieces stay tightly together but it's working.

 

You re-terminated the grounds on the passenger side, you should do the ones on the drivers side as well.