IDK what year you have, this is from an older manual, might not be accurate for later years.

Check the fuses that supply the fans, and engine bay ground G111 for corrosion.

More info on the grounds here:

https://www.jeeppatriot.com/threads/engine-bay-grounds-g110-g111-and-g112-location-and-wiring-diagrams.341159/

 

Sorry, I did mean to mention that it was a 2011 patriot. automatic I have replaced all the fuses and the entire relay box and I’m about to replace the main fuse box
I pulled all the wires from the relay box 2 of them touched. The fan started working at one point I had the fan running even if the keys pulled out. Pretty sure I had the wires cross put it all back the way I had it
and now I’m back to square one with a vehicle, not running.

Thank you I will take a look at these and see if they help

 

A quick heads up - that diagram is missing a connection between C2 of the Radiator Fan Cooling Module and G111.

Also - on each trace, from top to bottom, is a reference code number, the wire gauge, and the color(s) of the wire.

Also Also - the cooling fans do not normally turn on when the engine is cold, unless the air conditioner is on. So, start the engine, maybe let it warm up a bit, turn the air conditioner on, and then check the fan(s). The fans can also be tested individually using a bidirectional scan tool or an OBDII adapter and app such as JScan.

 

Thank you I greatly appreciate that.
Also one of the fuses blows every time I turn on the air conditioner

 

I just put up a post that I have been working on for awhile that describes the control of the fans by the relays:

https://www.jeeppatriot.com/posts/1913643/

 

If it is not a strain, I would suggest both a test light and a multimeter. The test light is easier to use in an engine compartment, but it won’t check non-powered circuits. The multimeter allows you to measure (usually) AC and DC voltage and resistance, but can be a PITA to view while both hands are busy. Some do have a circuit test ‘beep’ feature that sounds a tone when the resistance between the probes is near zero (checking for short circuits and good connections between different points).

For checking your wires and wrangling them back where they belong, you can use the color codes (e.g. - RD/BR = Red/Brown) from the diagram that Sandstone posted and the Relay Box (top view) drawing. The wiring diagram identifies the relay terminals using a letter-number code, while the drawing uses what appears to be an industry standard numbering system. Here’s a cross-reference that I made up for the fan relays:

85 (n1)- B+ voltage (coil)
86 (n5)- Circuitry to control the relay (coil)
30 (n4) - B+ (switched circuit)
87A (n3) - Normally Closed
87 (n2) - Normally Open

It looks like the wire that’s in the center/background is one of the terminals with a jumper attached. Here’s a post with more wiring information about the Relay Box that shows Red/Light Blue jumpers between relays (the 2014 Patriot drawing):

https://www.jeeppatriot.com/posts/1878764/

That one shows a separate Red/Light Blue wire going to the Main Relay, but (as I mentioned above) for many years that power for the Main Relay was also jumped from another relay.

Oh - make sure you double-check the fuses if you’ve gotten any sparks on these wires.

Let us know how you make out.

 

Is it just a base (SPORT), North or Latitude, Latitude X [AWL--BRF (262mm rear rotor)--FDII, OFF road package?] where was the manufacture? Mexico? Depending on D.o.M. schematic changes slightly, was a nightmare for me to work out for my 2011 FDII because the harness must have been leftovers because it was improvised from a diesel setup... Was not true to repair schematics... I will dig up my diagramsI referenced but need more information and can't do it right away, have too much going on today... FDII relay 2011 is independent of several close years...