It probably couldn't hurt and while the lines are disconnected you could also just exchange out some additional fluid by putting each in a jug and bump the engine to see which is the ouput, then pump out a gallon and put an extra gallon of fresh cvt fluid back in. Rinse and repeat if you want to replace more. I've done this in the past ona a old ford focus with 180k miles on it and it helped.

 

@Skip, if the fluid is still clean, and the filter was replaced with the last fluid change, then replacing the filter probably won't help much.

The problem may be with the pump flow control valve being scored / worn or another pressure related issue.

If you have an android device and a OBDII adapter you could try downloading a copy of CVTz50 and take a look at the transmission pressures and compare to the chart below.

CVTz50 - CVT diagnostics with ELM327

I'm not big on transmission additives, but since it's at the end of life, maybe a bottle of Bar's CVT transmission fix or similar would get you by for a bit.

You can use CVTz50 to get a baseline before, and then after the additive and see what (if any) effect it had.

 

Thanks guys! @todde702 ! @Sandstone. I do not have android, I’ll look for the app and see if I can find it or similar for iPhone. Added info. The transmission is a rebuild ( replacing the original) and the fluids have only been maintained, not changed ( my fault, time waits for no one). I’ve kept on them to always make sure they are at the correct level, because I do loose some over time. If the fluid is as clean as the picture, the filter should be ok? I’m not opposed to replacing it to see if it helps, but also am , as usual, pressed for time. I will try the CVT additive first.
we bought the Patriot new in ‘12 and brought our daughter home from being born in it. It’s been a phenomenal car. I put about 45k on it a year and besides usual wear out items…brakes, tires, and such, it’s been practically maintenance free considering. But now it’s just trying to keep it on life support for a while until I figure the next car move out.

 

For reference, here's my old filter (with 72k miles on the original fluid, very dirty) next to a new one. When I changed the fluid it was thick, black, and smelled like used oil. No limp mode or overheat, but always a whine even at low speeds.

IMO, your fluid seems fairly clean in comparison, but it's your call.

The filter doesn't cost much, it's not rocket science to change it, but it does take a little time.

 

thanks Sandstone. I have the filter and also the pan filter and gasket. Just not the time today. After looking at your filters and your description of the fluid, I’m not in a rush (today anyway) to change out the filter. But i couldn’t find the app you wrote about but did just purchase Car Scanner Pro to unlock the trans temp reader. I’ve been using the free version for a while. I have to drive today and am going to monitor the temp to see if it is jumping up over time. Using the 120-150 temp as an average daily running temp. At least I can see if it begins to rise. The code started last Friday and I’ve had no choice but to reset the code and drive. In early morning cold I’ve made it the 70 miles to work with no problems…but I do baby it and creep up hills. Definitely not pushing it. In the afternoon drive, same 70 miles it’s more uphill and usually get the slippage and limp feel about 3/4 the way. Then take a moment with the car off. It resets and usu is ok for the rest of the drive. Again. I creep up the hills…that is what triggers it for the most part. That extra load.

 

I just drove 75 miles. Mostly 50 mph back roads and about 10 or so on highway. Did not push it, crawled up hills and made it to where I had to be. Earlier today I purchased the Car Scanner Pro app. With the purchase you get trans temp readings. Throughout the trip it slowly climbed. At my arrival it was 215 degrees f. At just over half way on the drive and just off the highway section it was at 195 degrees and I checked the fluid , it was at 45mm. On the high side but in the area for that temp on the chart. No foaming or anything like that. Still looked good. Can the CVT oil break down over time and use, even if it is visual good looking? It has been over 100k miles. I do need to add about 10 or 15 mm every few months. That may explain the clean oil look. And could that be causing the slip that triggers the limp mode.

 

Im going to do the fluid and filter change hopefully this weekend. I think, and hope that my problem may be related to old (over 100k miles) fluid. that its broken down to where its not doing its job. I have the gasket, strainer filter and the cooler filter. I also have a 5 quart jug of Mopar cvtf4 fluid. being it Christmas this weekend there are no dealers open. i was doing some reading in other posts and came across the below quote. @Sandstone , i think you had posted it as a reply in another post about the dealership not wanting to do the fluid change. I was wondering if what the guy was saying about the Valvoline fluid being cvtf4 compatible meant it was safe to mix. as in being able to top off the 5 quarts of Mopar with Valvoline if needed. @Sandstone , what are your thoughts on mixing the two. side note, I'm going to try and get the Mopar, but just asking if i have no choice.



"Update, as a aircraft mechanic and former ASE certified mechanic I will tell you everything above is typical internet garbage from those who post nonsense about things they do not understand. Napa has the dipstick 605-1677 @ under $25. It comes with a chart as the fluid level is temp dependent. They also have the filter and gasket NAPA Part #1-5510. It is straight forward transmission filter change, be sure to wipe out pan and clean the 2 magnets thoroughly. Valvoline makes a Full synthetic CVT fluid that is CVTF4 chrysler compatible. Part #804751. I recommend changing before 100K miles as it already dirty (very black) by then and then every 50K miles as much fluid remains in trans during drain. The owners manual recommends 60K for severe duty and 120K miles normal service. This applies to 2007-2011 Patriot with CVT transmission. The fluid required will depend on how hot trans was when drained and how long it drained. Most require under 7qts but I would have a 8th around just in case. Add 5qts and then check, add, check until in middle of zone. Any dipstick that touches the bottom will also do as it is measured in millimeters and one could scribe the back of the oil dipstick so you always have it with you. Measured from bottom of stick 32mm works from 50F to 170 F. It would be the high mark @ 50F and the low @ 170F. 28mm to 36mm works from 70F to 125F trans fluid temp with low for 70F and high for 125F. I posted more details here: What brand CVTF+4 Transmission Fluid CAN you use in 09' Patriot? "

 

Topping off with Valvoline cvt fluid won't hurt anything, IMO it's better than factory fluid anyway.

When I did my first change it was Valvoline, and the second was with Castrol transmax.

When you do a drain and re-fill there's some of the old fluid left in the trans so you're kind of mixing them anyway.

 

Topping off with Valvoline cvt fluid won't hurt anything, IMO it's better than factory fluid anyway.

When I did my first change it was Valvoline, and the second was with Castrol transmax.

When you do a drain and re-fill there's some of the old fluid left in the trans so you're kind of mixing them anyway.

Thanks @Sandstone ! If the fluid and filter change does end up solving the problem… I am going to order the pan with the drain plug and put fluid and cooler filter changes in the 30k mile rotation. So this change is more of a rest anyway. But just did not want to mess things up worse because I didn’t have patience to wait a day for the dealer to open. Side note, I already have a new 5 quart of the Mopar (edited for correct spelling) or I would have just gone all Valvoline, more convenient then going to the dealership. Happy Holidays and Merry Christmas.

 

Just for general knowledge, when major aftermarket oil companies list something as meeting an OEM oil spec, they not only have to pay a license fee to do so, but must prove it meets that spec. So as long as the CVT +4 fluid has the mopar number on it, you're safe. I wouldn't have any qualms using the Valvoline brand fluid.

 

Christmas update.
got a chance to change the cooler filter. It was BAD.
First of all, I am kicking myself for not doing this sooner. To the point that I realize NOT doing this sooner most likely is going to result in my transmission going bad. And, that it is very easy to do. Praying the new fluid and filters help fix my current situation and get more miles out of the cvt. Going to drop the pan and do that part tomorrow. Side note: the pic is the old and new filter. Also, the oil in there felt alittle grainy. ALSO: the filter is a Duralast TF 246 from Autozone. It showed on the website as a match, but wanted to be sure. Does that number sound correct. I couldn’t find any cross reference or that filter in a search on here.

 

Did the oil change yesterday. Took it slow since it was my first time. Thanks to this board, everything went smoothly. Took it for a 2 hour test drive/oil top off drive and the temperature is back to running normal at about 150 up or down depending on driving speed. Did my daily commute this am without a hitch. Stopped at my usual fluid level check spot, right on 35mm at 160f. That’s also a halfway of my 75 mile commute and just off the 15 mile highway portion. The temp dropped to 150f by the time I got to work. Fingers are still crossed, but I think I may have fixed the po741 with the filters and fluid change.
side note in the pics. Foam board and a drawing of the pan to keep track of the bolts. I used a piece of wood to hold the pan while I removed the bolts to drop it. Helped a ton!like a 3rd hand. The old oil. Before and after on the trans temp….same exact drive.

 

It's amazing what a difference new fluid & filters make in the CVT.

 

Awesome news! And thanks for letting us know.