Can you tell if the the fuel pump running?

The PCM has to see signals from the crankshaft and camshaft position sensors in a certain amount of time or it won't start the fuel pump.

If the proper pump control signal is present then maybe something going on with the pump, or a connection problem.

 

Now that sounds possible. All the sensor connections are OK except one which is somewhere below the exhaust manifold. My son was given the job of crawling under to remove the manifold and associated issues: he commented that this sensor connection was hard to get to. I will put the car up on the hoist and check this out today as I imagine that would be the region where the crankshaft sensor would be located?

Thanks again for your help.

 

You're welcome, here's another diagram:

 

Hi again,

A couple of interesting developments.

First, when I pulled the old engine out I disconnected the fuel pump wires to get rid of the fuel pressure. I forgot to put them back on! Having now done so, I have heaps of fuel pressure which goes against the manual info you provided. However, my ECU has two connectors: one for the engine look and one for other items whereas the new engine loom has only one, larger, connector so maybe there has been a change in the ECU programming?

I received my Scangauge yesterday to hooked it up today and had three error codes: P0013, P2017 and P2185.

P0013 is supposed to be Bank 1 Camshaft 2 Position Actuator Circuit Open
P2017 is supposed to be Intake Manifold Runner Position Sensor Circuit High
P2185 is not on my list.

I then found that I had not plugged the cable in to the sensor on the section that has the control of the blades on the intake manifold. Dont' know what it is called but when I connected that P2017 went away.so I am left with P0013 and P2185.

After about two hours searching from top and bottom I still cannot find the Crankshaft Position Sensor. I have the lead to connect to it, but no sensor Will continue the search. Perhaps P2185 relates to that?

 

 

Thanks. That is understandable as the replacement engine has a plug where the second coolant temperature sensor would have been. I have two options: pull out the inlet manifold, remove the plug and fit a sensor; leave it be and hope that the second coolant sensor being high will not cause problems...

 

I don't know if you needed this or not , but here's the info on P0013.

 

Thanks for that. I took the actuator out (as I could not get the connector off while it was in position) and then checked the resistance between its two terminals. It read several Mohms. I then checked the resistance on two others I had removed from the old engine and they read 0 ohms. I put one of them in, cleared the scan codes, re-scanned and now only have P2185.

So, the problems now are finding the crankshaft sensor to connect the lead and the second coolant temperature sensor issue. The difficulty there is that the replacement engine has a plug fitted where the sensor should be so I have to buy a sensor, remove the inlet manifold (grrr), remove the plug, install the sensor and replace the inlet manifold. I am hoping that the engine will start once the crankshaft sensor is connected, even though the second coolant temperature sensor is not there. At least then I can move the car out of the shed and park it until I get a new sensor. I need the shed space and the hoist as I have another project coming on Monday (1955 Austin Champ which was running when parked in 2013).

 

There's a few vids around showing the location of the CPS, the one below is on a 2wd behind a heat shield, the 4x4 has the manaverter and is harder to get to.

 

Hi
Well, one step forward, one step back...
I located the crankshaft sensor OK. What had me tricked was that it already had a cable connected to it, so I assumed it was not the one I was looking for! I disconnected it and got an error code P0335 which, after I reconnected it, went away. This explains why the fuel pump worked even though I thought the sensor was disconnected. The thing that had me confused was that I have a lead that is in the correct position to connect to something around the same area but I cannot find anything for it to plug in. I had assumed, especially as it was identical to the sensor cable in the graphic you sent, that it was the sensor cable.
When I unplugged the sensor I was able to confirm that the extra lead has a plug different from the one needed for the sensor. I have included a photo of the lead on the old loom (which is the one I am using) , on the new engine loom (which I do not use) and plug. So the big question is, what is this lead for? The same lead exists on the loom that came with the new engine so there must be something for it?
Needless to say, the engine still does not fire up...
I have also included a photo of the ECM model, etc.
Sorry to be a pain but I am hoping this is close to a solution...
So

 

To me, it appears the loom sheathing was split at one point and is now taped together. Maybe something was modified?

I can't tell for sure, but it appears the connector only has two pins and two wires. From what I've come across, the three position connectors in my manual use all three positions, none are only two wires.

I'm also not sure of the wire colors, so I can't compare it to any info I have.

My suggestion at this point would be to compare the engine to the diagrams below and see if there are any sensors that are not connected.

 

Well, I think I have to admit it has beaten me. Overnight I had the battery connected to my smart charger and today I went and checked but could not find any connectors that were unplugged. I then turned the ignition on and got the nobus message on the display. The scangauge could not connect and, of course, I could not run the starter. I did the +ve lead to earth with battery disconnected solution but it did not help.

I think I have two choices at this stage: try to sell it but that is not likely to get much in return or take it to a dealer, being prepared for a large bill. So, it is a choice of write off my losses or risk putting good money after bad.

Thanks for your efforts. Regards, Howard

 

Oh, I forgot to mention that the plug for which I cannot find a sensor has 3 pins and 3 wires. On the old loom the colours look like red, black, green in that order and on the new loom red or orange, blue and grey or green.

 

Could it be the vehicle speed sensor for the manual transmission?

 

And I just noticed that the headlights turn on when the ignition is turned on, regardless of the position of the headlight switch!

 

It is a CVT

 

Yes, I know, which is why the vehicle speed sensor connector (for the manual transmission) has no where to go.

Make sense?

 

Yes. My next move is to buy a coolant temperate sensor for the second sensor position, then fit that and see if it fixes the not starting problem. Of course, while waiting for the sensor to arrive I will need to persevere with the nobus issue as nothing works till that is done.

 

Check fuse 33, it supplies power to the OBD2 data port connector as well other important things.

 

I will check that today. I have actually unplugged and checked every fuse already but I have been caught that way before - fuse looks fine but under load it is open circuit. Yesterday I had the battery connected for the previous 12 hours and when I went to the shed I could smell over-heating electronics. The smell came from the fuse box near the air filter and it felt hot. Got the temp tester and it showed 55C at fuses 27, 28! I disconnected the battery and will today unplug those fuses, reconnect the battery and then check if it makes any difference.

 

 

You shouldn't have to prime the system. Whenever I switch a motor, the fuel pump automatically pumps the system full. there might be a little air in the line, but it will be worked out on cranking the starter over. When it starts, it will miss a bit, but will level out. If you need to get to the crank sensor, I just did one last week. You didn't say it is 4wd or not. If it is, you need long skinny arms to reach it. Mine was a 4x4 and it is tough. The exhaust shield has to come off back under the rear exhaust and just a bit left of it.. There are 3 bolts holding it in, and the upper one is a 10mm nut that you have to reach from the top and behind the motor. The other two are lower, ones a 10 and the other is a 13mm. The sensor is rt under this shield. If yours is a 2wd it will be much ezier. I took the rt drive axle out to get to it and I couldn't see it, but with a mirror. I could feel it and get the 10mm headed bolt out ok, and the clip off the connector was a bit harder with my rt hand. like I said, if yours is 2wd it will be much ezier, and you probably won't need to remove the rt axle.

 

Hi
Thanks for the feedback. Actually the problem was simple (and stupid). When I pulled the engine out, I had to remove the fuel pressure which included disconnecting the pump electrical connections. I had forgotten to put them back...
However, as you will see in later posts, the problem has gone from bad to worse so I will be taking it to a dealer to sort out the electrics.