My 2014 Patriot is a Sport model, that did not come with the EVIC. I was totally fine with that, as I installed an Android head unit as well as an ELM327 bluetooth OBD2 reader, and run the Torque app to monitor all the guages that it provides. But, this past October, I was at a local pick-a-part with a friend looking for a few parts for a Mustang he's building and came across a 2016 Patriot Limited, so I decided to snag a few goodies, instrument cluster included. I then stashed it in the garage and promptly forgot about it.
Well, this past weekend I came across it while doing some spring cleaning and decided to swap out my Jeeps original cluster with it. I've read in a couple places that it will work, and a couple other places that it won't. I figured that it would be cool if it worked, and if it didn't that I would just put the original back. I wish that I had thought to take pictures, but I didn't until I was done... lil too late there, lol.
Anyway, I did get it to work, nearly 100%, but I did need some nearly dealer-level software to get it as functional as it is and turn off the MIL.
Swapping them out was pretty stright forward. Start out by removing the trim from the A-pillars. They are held on by one screw each. Then, using a plastic trim removal tool, pry off and remove the trim at the back of the dash that's right under the windshield. Just pry it up gently as it just snaps into place. Then, using the trim removal tool, pry off and remove the radio/hvac bezel. Then the "fun" part, remoce the crap load of screws all around the perimiter of the dash. I didn't keep count, but I believer there's like 15-20 of them, and you'll need either a stubby screwdriver or a screwdriver bit on a flexible shaft to get the ones that are under the trim panel that was removed from under the windshield.
After all those screws are out, lower the tilt-wheel all the way, then lift up the dash enough to access the four screws holding the cluster in and remove them. Then pull the cluster forward, remove the four wiring connectors on its back side, and pull it out. Finally, reverse all the steps to put everything back together.
It sounds like a lot, and it kind of is, but it only took me about an hour to get the replacement installed and everything put back together. If this is something that you'd like to do, I highly recommend going to a pick-a-part to get the donor cluster instead of eBay or some other online place. That way, you can get some experience taking another Patriot apart, before attempting this on your own.
Some important notes: before you do anything, take a picture of your odometer, as the mileage of the donor cluster will be different. Also, before you drive the vehicle after swapping clusters, take a picture of your "new" odometer. Otherwise, you'll never know the actual mileage on your Jeep again. (I lucked out, the mileage on my "new" odometer is only 571 miles off my original, so I'm not even going to worry about it). Also, disconnect your battery before starting the job.
After I got the clusters swapped, my MIL (check engine light) was on. Torque showed P2067: Fuel Level Sensor B Circuit Low Input. Google showed that code to mean that there was a difference in the readings from the 2 fuel level sensors. (4WD Patriots have two fuel level sensors due to the shape of the fuel tank, 2WD Patriots only have one). I knew that swapping clusters should not have affected the fuel level sensors so I tried to clear the code. Torque said that it was a "grey" code and could not clear it. However, I did end up clearing it with another program, Appcar DiagFCA. (I'm going to do a little review of that app in another thread). Using that app, I also found that I'm getting another code, U0161: Lost Communication With Compass Module, but that does not light up the MIL.
All in all, this was pretty straight forward, and everything works as it should, except the compass, which I'll figure out sooner or later, if I ever feel like it, lol. (Does anyone here know where the Compass Module is)?
Well, this past weekend I came across it while doing some spring cleaning and decided to swap out my Jeeps original cluster with it. I've read in a couple places that it will work, and a couple other places that it won't. I figured that it would be cool if it worked, and if it didn't that I would just put the original back. I wish that I had thought to take pictures, but I didn't until I was done... lil too late there, lol.
Anyway, I did get it to work, nearly 100%, but I did need some nearly dealer-level software to get it as functional as it is and turn off the MIL.
Swapping them out was pretty stright forward. Start out by removing the trim from the A-pillars. They are held on by one screw each. Then, using a plastic trim removal tool, pry off and remove the trim at the back of the dash that's right under the windshield. Just pry it up gently as it just snaps into place. Then, using the trim removal tool, pry off and remove the radio/hvac bezel. Then the "fun" part, remoce the crap load of screws all around the perimiter of the dash. I didn't keep count, but I believer there's like 15-20 of them, and you'll need either a stubby screwdriver or a screwdriver bit on a flexible shaft to get the ones that are under the trim panel that was removed from under the windshield.
After all those screws are out, lower the tilt-wheel all the way, then lift up the dash enough to access the four screws holding the cluster in and remove them. Then pull the cluster forward, remove the four wiring connectors on its back side, and pull it out. Finally, reverse all the steps to put everything back together.
It sounds like a lot, and it kind of is, but it only took me about an hour to get the replacement installed and everything put back together. If this is something that you'd like to do, I highly recommend going to a pick-a-part to get the donor cluster instead of eBay or some other online place. That way, you can get some experience taking another Patriot apart, before attempting this on your own.
Some important notes: before you do anything, take a picture of your odometer, as the mileage of the donor cluster will be different. Also, before you drive the vehicle after swapping clusters, take a picture of your "new" odometer. Otherwise, you'll never know the actual mileage on your Jeep again. (I lucked out, the mileage on my "new" odometer is only 571 miles off my original, so I'm not even going to worry about it). Also, disconnect your battery before starting the job.
After I got the clusters swapped, my MIL (check engine light) was on. Torque showed P2067: Fuel Level Sensor B Circuit Low Input. Google showed that code to mean that there was a difference in the readings from the 2 fuel level sensors. (4WD Patriots have two fuel level sensors due to the shape of the fuel tank, 2WD Patriots only have one). I knew that swapping clusters should not have affected the fuel level sensors so I tried to clear the code. Torque said that it was a "grey" code and could not clear it. However, I did end up clearing it with another program, Appcar DiagFCA. (I'm going to do a little review of that app in another thread). Using that app, I also found that I'm getting another code, U0161: Lost Communication With Compass Module, but that does not light up the MIL.
All in all, this was pretty straight forward, and everything works as it should, except the compass, which I'll figure out sooner or later, if I ever feel like it, lol. (Does anyone here know where the Compass Module is)?
