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CVT: long trip - slipping - now its fine again. What should I do first?

8K views 17 replies 4 participants last post by  Sandstone  
#1 ·
I've been using my 2010 Jeep Patriot for a daily driver since 2017, and Uber on the weekends for the last 4 months. Its been very reliable and problem free. Just yesterday, my wife and I had to drive from Indianapolis Indiana to Kentucky. This is the longest stint of high speed driving i've done in a LONG time. On the way back, a strange problem started to manifest. I can explain it like this... At any speed over 60, at any throttle level (including coasting), the RPM would climb slowly from ~1800 to 2000 to about 3500 then it would snap back down to the lower range. It wasn't a jerk or a bump.. almost like i was shifting from autostick '5' to D.

On the way back home, i lost power. as in, i could floor it and the jeep would not even move... the engine didn't rev. I understand how the engine works and i know the drive by wire system was simply not opening the throttle to protect the transmission. Upon coming to a stop, it shuddered HORRIBLY, banging and bucking, but not dying. Once I would come to a complete stop, it would sit like nothing was wrong. Taking off again, there was NO power. I basically had to idle slowly to about 10 to 15 mph which at that point it would take off again. I didn't have full power though, just reduced like it was stuck in 3rd. I was able to get home. This whole time, no lights came on indicating a ground failure (i've been down that route and I KNOW how bad the grounds can be for these problems). No extra dash lights was weird. The check engine light was already on, but didn't flash. I had a catalytic converter code that was just stuck in there because i need a new O2 sensor or something.

The next day, it acted the same way. No power, "slipping", acting like it was stuck in 3rd. Then 2 hours later, I tried it again so i could get a video to go with this post and ITS FINE. I pulled the codes and I got P0700 Trans Control Sys Malfunction, and P0777 Pres Ctrl Sol. B Circuit Stuck On. I can guess what this means, but I would like to at least proceed cautiously.

My vehicle has gone from "i'm convinced it needs a transmission to" it might need a fluid change or something. I am considering having the pan dropped and filter change / new fluid via charge pipe but i'm not even sure how to ensure this is done right. I am used to fixing my own stuff, but this CVT + electronic controls worry me because I don't have the proper tools.

I'm worried about wasting money. I also have horrid distrust for any dealership, so just know that no matter what, I will never visit one of those horrible lying money pits.

*other things i am considering
1) Additional ground issues I didn't resolve correctly
2) Possible throttle body sensor issue
3) possible damaged or plugged transmission valves and circuits
Please advise.

TL;DR; CVT was slipping yesterday after a long trip, no power, no revs, no dash lights, no whine. Today its fine again. What should I have done to it to maintain it staying ok?
 
#2 ·
You didn't mention how many miles it has on it. If you have over 100k and haven't had fluid and filters serviced, you may be looking at a replacement. The fluid and filters should have been serviced no later than 50-60k, despite the manuals stated 120k mile service interval.

The problems with running old fluid are numerous, especially metal particles that score the valve bores.

You can still try a fluid and filter change to see if it helps. It's not hard to do; a simple pan drop to drain the fluid, remove and clean/replace the pan strainer, clean the magnets in the pan, install new gasket and pan, then fill with the correct amount of fluid according to the fill chart (posted several times on this site). The cooler return filter is inside the transmission, you take out the battery and battery tray, and the aux cooler or integrated bypass valve plate on the trans to get to it (4 bolts)

There are lots of threads on this; lots of people here have done it themselves and not all of us are professional mechanics.

Fluid-wise if I'm reading this right, you can get 6 quarts of Castrol transmax CVT fluid for $24.74 which is about as cheap as it gets https://www.amazon.com/Castrol-06811-6PK-Transmax-Black-Transmission/dp/B00T96Q956

The pan strainer/pick up screen inside the pan can be replaced, or cleaned and reused, and the cooler return filter can likely be bought over the counter at a local parts store.
 
#4 ·
You didn't mention how many miles it has on it. If you have over 100k and haven't had fluid and filters serviced, you may be looking at a replacement. The fluid and filters should have been serviced no later than 50-60k, despite the manuals stated 120k mile service interval.

The problems with running old fluid are numerous, especially metal particles that score the valve bores.

You can still try a fluid and filter change to see if it helps. It's not hard to do; a simple pan drop to drain the fluid, remove and clean/replace the pan strainer, clean the magnets in the pan, install new gasket and pan, then fill with the correct amount of fluid according to the fill chart (posted several times on this site). The cooler return filter is inside the transmission, you take out the battery and battery tray, and the aux cooler or integrated bypass valve plate on the trans to get to it (4 bolts)

There are lots of threads on this; lots of people here have done it themselves and not all of us are professional mechanics.

Fluid-wise if I'm reading this right, you can get 6 quarts of Castrol transmax CVT fluid for $24.74 which is about as cheap as it gets https://www.amazon.com/Castrol-06811-6PK-Transmax-Black-Transmission/dp/B00T96Q956

The pan strainer/pick up screen inside the pan can be replaced, or cleaned and reused, and the cooler return filter can likely be bought over the counter at a local parts stor
 
#3 · (Edited)
I should have mentioned.. it has 144,000 miles on it. I am not the original owner. This is my first CVT. I’ll search the rest of the site and see if its something I want to tackle myself. I’ve changed the filters / fluid on a lot of FWD automatic “geared” transmissions, but never a CVT.


Oddly, it’s actually shifting better than it ever has. It’s truly odd.
 
#7 ·
I should have mentioned.. it has 144,000 miles on it. I am not the original owner. This is my first CVT. I’ll search the rest of the site and see if its something I want to tackle myself. I’ve changed the filters / fluid on a lot of FWD automatic “geared” transmissions, but never a CVT.
If you can handle pan drop fluid changes on a conventional automatic transaxle, you'll have no trouble at all changing the fluid on this. Seriously.

If you want you can use the engine oil dipstick to check the current level and condition. Just make sure to wipe it off real good, push it down the CVT fill tube until you can hear it tapping on the bottom of the pan, then pull it out, measure it how far it went up the dipstick and compare to the chart.

Mopar CVT fluid is a pale green when new; if the fluid is black, thick, and smells like old motor oil then its done.
 
#6 ·
Yes change fluid and make sure to change cooler filter too. I just did that to girlfriends nissan cvt and the cooler filter on it bout diameter of a 50 cent piece tiny was filthy at 75,000 miles. Pan screen and magnets full of metal particulate.
 
#8 · (Edited)
I'm a little worried that the current level will be lower than it should be. Assuming the transmission has never been serviced, wont the fluid level possibly be low? I want to make sure that I put the correct amount in. I'm ordering this stuff soon:

 
#9 ·
I'm a little worried that the current level will be lower than it should be. Assuming the transmission has never been serviced, wont the fluid level possibly be low?
Sure, it could be low.

But if it were me, I'd check it first to try to see where I stood before I spend a lot of money.
If it's new -ish and the level is in the ball park, changing it again might not solve anything.
If it's new-ish looking but low, you can pick up a quart at a parts store, top it off, and see if that helps.
If it's old then it's more likely a change will make a difference.
 
#12 ·
I stuck the oil dipstick into it until it stopped (it didn’t bottom out, it stopped in the neck but went in as far as possible). There was 10mm of fluid on the dipstick. It didn’t smell burned, it was clear - light brown when I rubbed it on my finger. I either need a longer dipstick or there’s not enough oil.
 
#13 ·
Hmmm...that's the second time I've heard of someone not being able to get the engine oil dipstick all the way to the bottom of the pan. I'm surprised too, that mine does reach and its also a 2010.

Anyway, when you get a dipstick that will reach, here's the temp adjusted level chart.

90587
 
#14 ·
That’s the best copy of that chart I’ve seen. Thanks. I’m very happy my fluid isn’t toast. Wonder if all the weirdness is electrical faults / ground issues. It seems to happen the most after a long high speed drive with the AC turned on.
 
#15 ·
It’s 32mm at 50 degrees F. I’m going to be posting a video I made soon. Jeep has been acting so crazy. Drove it 100miles yesterday mostly around 30mph. At the end, the throttle would stick closed until the Jeep reached 5mph then it would open just fine. At a dead standstill I could floor it and it would sit still. But after it was rolling, all was fine.

This morning, 10 hours later, it’s ok again, except it felt like it was “stuck in 3rd gear”. Starting from a dead stop with an automatic stuck in 3rd gear was how I’d describe it. It also didn’t vibrate. After I drove it a couple miles, I was just fine and dandy. Stupid CVT. Stupid useless computer controls.
 
#16 ·
Obviously there is a problem and ya keep driving it. Small problem can be serious problem if not taken care of. No known service of cvt except trying to figure out fluid level. May want to drop pan and look at the filter screen and magnets most likely full of metal particulate. Also transcooler filter most likely full of metal particulate. Unless previous owner serviced cvt then all filters screens are full of metal particulate. You may have another problem but cvt service should be #1 priority. Just my 2 cent opinion..