From what I understand, it was after the rinse that this occurred, so during the rinse some water may have ran into something. I understand that a low pressure rinse, even just using the sprayer with the water that comes out before even squeezing the nozzle shouldn’t be too much… I’m wondering if over time, and a hot engine after the drive home, the water will dry its way out and you’ll be back in business? The pros will be around later on and can talk you through this. Please keep us posted.

 

@Briand123 , I know you mentioned the fuse box, but have you checked the relay box under the left headlight for corrosion on the relay pins and wiring?

Also, the cable connections at the starter sometimes corrode / come loose.

 

Yes

Yes I pulled it out and re-pinned a couple wires, replaced some relays. Still no luck.

 

after replacing leaky cv axle seal I brought it to the car wash and sprayed underneath the front right cv. I then did a low pressure rinse of the engine bay after covering up the pcm and tipm. After leaving the car wash the battery light came on so I parked it at home and Lifted the hood to let it dry out, and here we are. I have been through the notorious fuse box. All fuses in the tipm are sound. My obd will power up but fails to link with the Jeep, all pins at the obd are good and voltage is where it should be. When key’d on and attempting to crank I can just hear a slight clicking. Starter has been tested, all chassis grounds cleaned and positive/ negative battery cable lines are not compromised. Full charge on battery.
Alight Motion Mod Apk Download

 

I’m just checking back to see if this resolved on its own, or if there’s still water somewhere it shouldn’t be.

 

What happens if you take the key out and try again after the initial try?

 

Still no luck. Everything's been dry for a while now.

 

Am so hoping a blessing that worked for me would work for you. Last summer, my Chariot decided it just couldn’t after I tried to start him. So I took the key out, waited just a little bit, less than a minute, and slowly tried again… he came on and I drove without AC and radio to charge him back and just went ahead and got him a new battery this summer. Your situation is a little different with the light coming on and things… but I’m feeling for you, especially after you worked so hard to get everything in order.

 

The TIPM is the OBD gateway for the scanner port and other electronic modules.

If the fuses are all good, maybe the water caused a short somewhere and scrambled everything.

If you haven't already, try resetting the entire system by disconnecting both battery cables, touching them together for 10 mins (use a zip tie, etc. to hold them together if need be) to drain all the power out of the system, then reconnect and try.

 

Update I have found that pin 86 of the starter relay is not grounding while cranking. Also I have power to all my ground connections in the engine bay. Looks like I'm going to be chasing a ground short.

 

Wiring Diagrams

Downloadable PDF - 2014 wiring diagrams

www.jeeppatriot.com

 

Thanks for letting us know what you found. This may constitute going ahead and taking the neg off the battery and covering as much as you can before cleaning the engine bay. Great job & thanks again for keeping us posted.

 

Anyone have a picture of the wiring from the back side of the relay box?

 

@Sandstone ✌😎

 

Update.
-Computer powers up but does not link to the obd.

• no codes on the small dash cluster screen.
• warning lights on dash cluster: red battery, check engine, traction control, ABS.

-if I jump the b+ and signal wire tab at the starter the engine will crank.
-When keyed on acc the signal wire gets 10.6 volts and no change when key is cranked. Starter wire has continuity to the c10 connector.
Starter wire is receiving full b+ at the terminal ring.

• new battery.
• no power to fuses 23,25,26,30,31,32 at the TIPM

-if I jumper pins 87 and 30 on the relayASD I get power back to fuses 32,23,26. At the TIPM

• still no power to fuses 25,30,31 TIPM
• all fuses are intact.

TRS to TIPM on the C10 is good.
TCM to TIPM on the C8 H19 is good.
WCM to TIPM on pink/white C1 is good.
WCM to TIPM on red/org C1 H13 is good.
IGN SWITCH to TIPM on red/org C7 G4 is
good.
PCM to TIPM on red/wht C11, pnk/gry are good.


When I key it to crank inside I noticed the digital clock on the radio screen cuts at the same time. No crank still.

 

Is there power to pin 85 of the relay? If not, has the connection at Tipm C11,11 been checked? Is fuse 33 good and seated properly?

If there's power to pin 85, does pin 86 pull low when the key is turned? If not, has the connection at the PCM been checked?

 

Check the harness from the tipm to the lower relay box. Someone else had a broken wire where the loom kind of bends down towards it over some of the metal subframe.

 

I found it gentlemen

 

R

After spending a few nights on this non dtc based no start diagnoses everything was pointing towards a failure of the PCM but I was having trouble accepting this. Today i said screw it and opened the pcm up . It was extremely difficult to pry open the seal around the casing and at first I thought everything looked fine. Some very slight discoloration around the pegs made me pry out the other side of the circuit board where the C1 connector plugs in and there it was!!! Upon further investigation i also found there is a tiny hole in the bottom of both ports on top of the PCM. This hole drops straight down to the unprotected portion of the pinned circuit board. This corrosion had been building up for a while and my light wash must have been the breaking point.

 

Nice job, thanks for all the info!

 

Wow! So much for a sealed pcm! That sucks but excellent find!