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120k Mile Services and Repairs

5.2K views 12 replies 7 participants last post by  John96  
#1 ·
Over the course of the past week I did a ton of repairs and service on the old war horse. I finally hit 120k miles so had a bunch of stuff to do.

First, back in May @ the 118k mile mark, I had it into the dealer for the 5 year powertrain inspection (Yes, I still have the lifetime powertrain warranty and I'll keep this puppy until the wheels fall off). While with the dealer, I also had them do the 120k mile CVT fluid change. Big bucks for that, ouch! But it maintains my warranty so cheap in the long run. I also asked them to do the FCA notified subframe inspection, but they never heard of it, then told me only a dealer with an advanced autobody shop could do it. :| Then 1 week later the throttle body quit working, so had to install a new one of those as well.

But this past week was the lions share of service and repairs. Changed the RDU and PTU fluids, replaced the spark plugs, replaced both outer tie rod ends, both rear lower control arms, both rear swaybar endlinks, both rear toe links and front and rear brakes and rotors! :surprise:

Man is she riding nice and stopping smooth! :grin2: Although now that all of the creaks, groans and clunks are gone, I think I hear the passenger rear wheel bearing starting to make noise. :(

I also did my own subframe inspection (long story, but basically the dealer states MY 10 year extension expired last month) and all is good with just a little surface rust. So while I had each end in the air I wire brushed off the loose stuff and cleaned them, then liberally sprayed them with rustoleum rust converter spray. Next I'll fluid film the snot out of the insides of them in a few days and I should get an easy 10 more years out of them (or longer if I pay attention and repeat the above steps).

Also, sorry I haven't been very active lately, been dealing with a bunch of things and had to let some "hobbies" slip by the wayside. I promise to be more present moving forward though!
 
#2 · (Edited)
Very glad to see you back!!!!!!! It's so good to have a few people here with hands-on, mechanical experience to share. My background is limited and often I can only parrot what I read in my service manual to at least attempt to help others.

Thanks for sharing your maintenance activities above.
 
#3 ·
So I also just replaced the motor mounts on the 'Riot as well. I swapped out 3 out of the 4, only because I ordered a 2wd rear mount by accident instead of the 4wd version. That one looks to be the most difficult to swap out too.
The front mount was super easy, three bolts in total and plenty of room to pop it out and in.
The right side mount (main engine mount on the passenger side) was pretty easy. You need to unbolt the coolant, power steering and washer fluid tanks and position them out of the way (no need to drain or disconnect any of them), place a jack under the oil pan to support the engine then, it's just 8 bolts in total, and ample room to R&R it.
The left mount (over the transmission) requires removing quite a bit more stuff, but still easy and straight forward enough. Remove the air cleaner, battery, battery tray, unbolt the ECM and push it out of the way and remove the ECM/Air cleaner mounting bracket. The rubber mount to frame bolts come out easy enough. Two up top, and two from underneath (between the frame rail and transmission) with a 16mm or 5/8" ratcheting wrench is ideal. No need to unbolt the bracket bolted to the transmission but you will need to jack the engine around to wiggle and twist the mount out and back in.
The rear mount looks tricky and tight, I'd guess I'll be removing the bracket from the transmission along with the mount, but we'll see once the correct mount shows up.

So far though it is WAAAYYYY less vibration. I was also getting an odd rattle, sounding like the plastic splash guard vibrating against the frame at low idle speeds and in gear, that is also now gone and judging by the enormous cracks in the right side mount, probably where the noise was coming from.

So, by 123k miles and 10 years, the mounts had worn out, compressed and cracked.
 
#13 ·
So I also just replaced the motor mounts on the 'Riot as well. I swapped out 3 out of the 4, only because I ordered a 2wd rear mount by accident instead of the 4wd version. That one looks to be the most difficult to swap out too.
The front mount was super easy, three bolts in total and plenty of room to pop it out and in.
The right side mount (main engine mount on the passenger side) was pretty easy. You need to unbolt the coolant, power steering and washer fluid tanks and position them out of the way (no need to drain or disconnect any of them), place a jack under the oil pan to support the engine then, it's just 8 bolts in total, and ample room to R&R it.
The left mount (over the transmission) requires removing quite a bit more stuff, but still easy and straight forward enough. Remove the air cleaner, battery, battery tray, unbolt the ECM and push it out of the way and remove the ECM/Air cleaner mounting bracket. The rubber mount to frame bolts come out easy enough. Two up top, and two from underneath (between the frame rail and transmission) with a 16mm or 5/8" ratcheting wrench is ideal. No need to unbolt the bracket bolted to the transmission but you will need to jack the engine around to wiggle and twist the mount out and back in.
The rear mount looks tricky and tight, I'd guess I'll be removing the bracket from the transmission along with the mount, but we'll see once the correct mount shows up.

So far though it is WAAAYYYY less vibration. I was also getting an odd rattle, sounding like the plastic splash guard vibrating against the frame at low idle speeds and in gear, that is also now gone and judging by the enormous cracks in the right side mount, probably where the noise was coming from.

So, by 123k miles and 10 years, the mounts had worn out, compressed and cracked.
I'm surprised the motor mounts were worn out. I've seen pats at boneyards where that's about the only part that still looks new. If FCA wanted they could have used liquid filled side motor mounts which would have smoothed things out. Maybe that's something an aftermarket supplier could make.
 
#4 · (Edited)
Did you use a pump for RDA and PTU? I have to do these on my '14 patriot and my '08 mariner.
What do you all think about the two gear oil pumps out there?

HFT has this one for $10 and AAP has it for $7
https://www.harborfreight.com/gear-oil-and-fluid-pump-61746.html
https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/toughone-engine-fluid-lubricant-pump-w1141/7070683-p
Image



HFT has this Mutli-use transfer pump for $7 and AAP has it for $15
https://www.harborfreight.com/multi-use-transfer-pump-63144.html
https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p...com/p/performance-tools-multi-use-pump-w1145/7071094-P?searchTerm=gear+oil+pump
Image


It would seem to me that the top one called a "gear oil pump" would be suited. Since the pump body can be placed into the gear oil container, pumping it would require two hands. It also has a plastic nozzle that looks like it was designed to clip in to the fill hole of a gear housing.
The muti-use transfer pump looks like would also require two hands to operate, third hand holding the hose inside the gear housing and fourth to keep it inside the fresh bottle.

I plan on buying two identical pumps, since each of them can be had for less than $10 each. The Mariner takes 75w-140 in the transfer case.

I anticipate doing to this fluid more often now that I will have the tool to do it.
 
#12 ·
I use a pump just like the first one in a one gallon jug of 80w90 lube. You will need to put a 90 deg. elbow on the end of it as clearance into the fill hole is limited. I just used a 90 deg vacuum elbow, one of the the cheap white plastic types sized to fit into the pump fill hose (maybe 5/16" ?).

Did you use a pump for RDA and PTU? I have to do these on my '14 patriot and my '08 mariner.
What do you all think about the two gear oil pumps out there?

HFT has this one for $10 and AAP has it for $7
https://www.harborfreight.com/gear-oil-and-fluid-pump-61746.html
https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/toughone-engine-fluid-lubricant-pump-w1141/7070683-p
Image


It would seem to me that the top one called a "gear oil pump" would be suited. Since the pump body can be placed into the gear oil container, pumping it would require two hands. It also has a plastic nozzle that looks like it was designed to clip in to the fill hole of a gear housing.
I anticipate doing to this fluid more often now that I will have the tool to do it.
 
#5 ·
Glad to hear she is riding nice and smooth. I had my cvt fluid filter changes at about 65- 70 k if I remember right, last January, Think it cost maybe 275-300 .

im at 85 k now!

Spark plugs are the patriot are every 30,000?

one issue that just popped up is my door, when i shut it it sounds off, it shuts just a sound thats its never done before. Maybe a loose bolt came out. Probably best i get it checked out.
 
#10 ·
I think the manual says every 30,000 miles thats why i asked. I bought mine at 48,000 and changed them at 55,000 a year and half ago. Now im at 85,000

getting them looked at and my friend and mechanic neighbor saying they are fine and showing me them, made me feel better
 
#11 ·
I feel you on getting busy, I have two kids in diapers so my time on the computer is very limited. However my 2013 Patriot now has 164k miles and needs a new throttle body and an alternator. Other than that, it's doing great!

Nice to see an original member from long ago back active again!