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TterevelFYtnom

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Discussion starter · #1 ·
Edit - If this isn't the right area to post this, please let me know where to post so I can post there and delete here, thank you.

I have a 15 Patriot latitude 2.0l and it's basically a paperweight as it keeps throwing "high volume air detected" even after replacing the throttle body 18 months ago, the throttle control actuator (gas pedal) a month ago, and the IAP/MAP sensor a week or so ago. As it's not a constant issue, I drove it for over 4 hours the other day without it throwing a code, I don't see how it could be a vacuum hose or manifold seal issue, it's been suggested it could be "the brain." What is that part called, and what is a ballpark price for what it costs to replace that? Finally, is there a way, other than going to a shop, to verify that? I am literally broke, living on less than $40 a day income 5 of 7 days a week, and never more than $70 a day, due to a disability and loss of an IT job, so I can't afford the price for some shop to just tell me what's wrong, and of course, AutoZone can't tell me from their tester.

Thank you all in advance for any and all help. It's paid off, don't have a way to get a "new" car any time soon, but I also can't afford massively expensive repairs, so if it would be better to just sell it off to someone for what I can get, that may be needed, it's just not what I want to do.
 
...it's been suggested it could be "the brain."
What is that part called, and what is a ballpark price for what it costs to replace that?
The PCM? Maybe $200-ish depending on where you buy it:


Maybe try carefully spraying carb cleaner around the edges of the manifold where it mates to the head while idling to see if the idle changes.
 
Discussion starter · #3 ·
The PCM? Maybe $200-ish depending on where you buy it:


Maybe try carefully spraying carb cleaner around the edges of the manifold where it mates to the head while idling to see if the idle changes.
I will show this to my Dad, who knows way more than I do about cars, so we can try it, and how hard is changing the PCM? Is it something I could do as he guides me since he's getting on in years and I don't want him over exerting himself.

Edit - Also if you have a diagram (or better, video) showing how to change the PCM I'd appreciate it as Google either shows a different model Jeep or a different part.
 
I will show this to my Dad, who knows way more than I do about cars, so we can try it, and how hard is changing the PCM? Is it something I could do as he guides me since he's getting on in years and I don't want him over exerting himself.

Edit - Also if you have a diagram (or better, video) showing how to change the PCM I'd appreciate it as Google either shows a different model Jeep or a different part.

I don't have the same PCM style as yours, but on yours the PCM is mounted to the top of the air filter box with three bolts. The service manual remove and install steps are below:

Image


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The tricky part is the PCM connectors, you have to press a release button on top of the connector to unlock the red lever, then pull the red lever to get the connector off.
Sometimes they can get stuck and break. Vid below will give you an idea:

 
An intake manifold gasket and maybe a new pcv valve is certainly a cheaper try than an ecm. Mine showed signs of leaking at 140k miles when I removed it to clean the flapper valves.
 
Discussion starter · #7 ·
Edit - If this isn't the right area to post this, please let me know where to post so I can post there and delete here, thank you.

I have a 15 Patriot latitude 2.0l and it's basically a paperweight as it keeps throwing "high volume air detected" even after replacing the throttle body 18 months ago, the throttle control actuator (gas pedal) a month ago, and the IAP/MAP sensor a week or so ago. As it's not a constant issue, I drove it for over 4 hours the other day without it throwing a code, I don't see how it could be a vacuum hose or manifold seal issue, it's been suggested it could be "the brain." What is that part called, and what is a ballpark price for what it costs to replace that? Finally, is there a way, other than going to a shop, to verify that? I am literally broke, living on less than $40 a day income 5 of 7 days a week, and never more than $70 a day, due to a disability and loss of an IT job, so I can't afford the price for some shop to just tell me what's wrong, and of course, AutoZone can't tell me from their tester.

Thank you all in advance for any and all help. It's paid off, don't have a way to get a "new" car any time soon, but I also can't afford massively expensive repairs, so if it would be better to just sell it off to someone for what I can get, that may be needed, it's just not what I want to do.
Could you guys share your current fuel consumption numbers on the Patriot? Have you noticed any changes in MPG after the 'system too lean' warning popped up?

t would be great if you could check and post your STFT (short-term fuel trim) and LTFT (long-term fuel trim) values.

If the intake manifold is crack-free, vacuum leaks could be coming from:

  • A damaged PCV valve hose
  • Brake booster vacuum line
  • Evap canister purge valve hose
  • Faulty intake manifold gasket
Also don't forget to inspect the exhaust manifold for cracks - they can trick the upstream O2 sensor into reading false lean conditions.

Also, make sure the intake air temperature (IAT) sensor is working correctly across the entire temperature range. In my case, this sensor showed accurate readings up to 95°F, but then it just stuck at that value and stopped responding.
 
Discussion starter · #9 ·
Could you guys share your current fuel consumption numbers on the Patriot? Have you noticed any changes in MPG after the 'system too lean' warning popped up?

t would be great if you could check and post your STFT (short-term fuel trim) and LTFT (long-term fuel trim) values.

If the intake manifold is crack-free, vacuum leaks could be coming from:

  • A damaged PCV valve hose
  • Brake booster vacuum line
  • Evap canister purge valve hose
  • Faulty intake manifold gasket
Also don't forget to inspect the exhaust manifold for cracks - they can trick the upstream O2 sensor into reading false lean conditions.

Also, make sure the intake air temperature (IAT) sensor is working correctly across the entire temperature range. In my case, this sensor showed accurate readings up to 95°F, but then it just stuck at that value and stopped responding.
I average about 20 miles per gallon but it can go down to 16 when I'm doing all city driving.
 
I average about 20 miles per gallon but it can go down to 16 when I'm doing all city driving.
In my opinion, your Jeep Patriot has pretty good fuel efficiency.
Could you please share the trouble code (DTC)? I'd like to understand at which point the system detects too much air.

If I understood correctly, you have an OBD2 scanner and can check live data. Pay attention to STFT (Short-Term Fuel Trim) and LTFT (Long-Term Fuel Trim) values—they can help identify air/fuel mixture issues.

Just a heads-up, I'm not a professional mechanic, but maybe we can still figure this out!
 
Discussion starter · #11 ·
In my opinion, your Jeep Patriot has pretty good fuel efficiency.
Could you please share the trouble code (DTC)? I'd like to understand at which point the system detects too much air.

If I understood correctly, you have an OBD2 scanner and can check live data. Pay attention to STFT (Short-Term Fuel Trim) and LTFT (Long-Term Fuel Trim) values—they can help identify air/fuel mixture issues.

Just a heads-up, I'm not a professional mechanic, but maybe we can still figure this out!
Well, I don't have any sensors, and Auto Zone only checks very few things. Dad said he may take it to a garage to have them check before we replace the PCM, but we'll see. At this point, it's really all I can think of as if it was a vacuum hose or manifold seal leak, it would throw the error constantly, not intermittently as it does now.
 
Well, I don't have any sensors, and Auto Zone only checks very few things. Dad said he may take it to a garage to have them check before we replace the PCM, but we'll see. At this point, it's really all I can think of as if it was a vacuum hose or manifold seal leak, it would throw the error constantly, not intermittently as it does now.
Without an OBD2 scanner and software like JScan or AlfaOBD, it's difficult to perform diagnostics. If the MIL (Check Engine) is on in a Patriot, you can retrieve the codes by turning the ignition on and off three times. If there are any codes, they will appear on the mileage display screen.

If you manage to take your Jeep to a repair shop, ask them to pay attention to the exhaust manifold and the catalytic converter. The manifold might have cracks, and the catalytic converter could be partially clogged.

Also, have them check the intake manifold temperature sensor and the ambient air temperature sensor (located under the left side of the bumper).

And don’t trust the 'new' throttle body. Inside the housing, there are plastic gears. They all come from China—some are better, some worse. It’s quite possible that yours was not the best quality.
 
Discussion starter · #13 ·
Without an OBD2 scanner and software like JScan or AlfaOBD, it's difficult to perform diagnostics. If the MIL (Check Engine) is on in a Patriot, you can retrieve the codes by turning the ignition on and off three times. If there are any codes, they will appear on the mileage display screen.

If you manage to take your Jeep to a repair shop, ask them to pay attention to the exhaust manifold and the catalytic converter. The manifold might have cracks, and the catalytic converter could be partially clogged.

Also, have them check the intake manifold temperature sensor and the ambient air temperature sensor (located under the left side of the bumper).

And don’t trust the 'new' throttle body. Inside the housing, there are plastic gears. They all come from China—some are better, some worse. It’s quite possible that yours was not the best quality.
Yeah, mine doesn't show the codes on the display, so we're going to take it to someone who can check more in detail, as well as clean the daylights out of the contacts to see if it's just dirty, and go from there.

And no worries on your English, working via translation is a good start, and you're well beyond that so you're good.
 
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