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I will always recommend Falken Wildpeak AT3/W tires. They're amazing on road and off, in all weather. They also make AT4/W's now as well, I've heard that they're not as good in the snow as the AT3W's, but are better in mud and sand. Anyway, I had them on my Patriot and got over 60k miles out of them.
 
Changed left rear brakecaliper since the disk got rusty. Old one rusted tight as wel as the mountingbolts. One broke, the other one i had to saw in two. With a very big plyer i could get the remains out the bracket, once on my workbench.
Could be an easy job but took more than an hour. Also put new eyelets on the G110 ground. Since wifes green Pat had problems there i did the job on my Pat too so i dont have to do it when winter arrives.
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Lug nuts were so torn-up
(age & flat tire changes) decided to order new, installed them this morning 10/10...

Removing driver rear nuts (2) i had the outer shells come off luckily I have half size sockets...
 

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I realize I'm going to need new tires real soon less thread then i thought....

Falken Wildpeak AT3W or

Falken Wildpeak AT

???
AT4W if you trail ride a lot, AT Trail if you don't. AT Trails are lighter but only come in passenger sizes, AT4W is tougher and comes in LT sizes but is heavier. Also hear the AT Trails wear faster than AT4Ws.

I think the AT3Ws will be phased out soon, wouldn't bother with getting them now since finding a replacement down the road if you need one would be tough, if true. And the AT4Ws are better all around anyway.
 
Was actually yesterday and some was only prep. But did the 2009 Journey V6 rear springs. Removed the rear swaybar (Actually less body roll with the new springs and no swaybar than it had with the swaybar and the old mushy springs).Filled some new aftermarket engine mounts with 3M window weld to beef them up. I'll let them cure all week and install next weekend.
Also for next weekend is to install the front end kit I picked up. Lower control arms, inner and outer tie rod ends and sway bar links but the front bar is disconnected and tied up so those stay in the box. All greasable. Was like $260 on rock auto for the kit. And the arms are boxed Mitsubishi style. Then it'll finally get an alignment. Sits a bit high right now but it will settle a bit, also my driveway is sloped so it tends to lift a bit in the back when parked. I also have a Daystar comfort ride lift on it. I think that was a 1.5" lift if I remember right. So now at least it wont be so saggy in the back when I load it down with gear and firewood. As it sits now on level ground it has 13" clearance under the muffler. A bit more under the diff.

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Sits a bit high right now but it will settle a bit..
I used those springs with my 1" spacers when I replaced the rear struts a while back and they're still about the same height-wise.

Yesterday, I loaded the back with about 200 lbs of sawdust blocks for our fireplace and it compressed the springs so little that it was hardly noticeable.
 
I used those springs with my 1" spacers when I replaced the rear struts a while back and they're still about the same height-wise.

Yesterday, I loaded the back with about 200 lbs of sawdust blocks for our fireplace and it compressed the springs so little that it was hardly noticeable.
The Patriot is about 1,100 lbs lighter than the AWD V6 Journey when I looked up the specs. I figure when I do shocks all the way around I'll get loaded struts for the front and the fresh springs should bring up the front end a bit.
It will be nice in the snow having the rear higher though. Get into the deep rutted stuff and if the front pushes through the rear wont hang up. Seems like I ran into a lot of that past years. The extra camping gear weighs it down and the rear high centers on stuff the front made it over as far as center hump of frozen snow in the road.
 
Over the weekend I rotated the tires. Gave it new headlight bulbs before they burn out on a dark winter night, they have been in there a few years. And put in a new air cleaner, it was a bit overdue.
Tried to do my inner and outer tie rods since they are just starting to get a bit sloppy but found torn steering rack boots so put that fix on hold a bit and had to order up a set that I hope fit, no one just sells rack boots for these. At least not that I 100% trust will fit, lots of "fits these 500 different vehicles" type of deals.
And finally did my inside rear hatch release https://www.jeeppatriot.com/threads...se-from-inside.344723/?post_id=1909807&nested_view=1&sortby=oldest#post-1909807
 
Tried to do my inner and outer tie rods since they are just starting to get a bit sloppy but found torn steering rack boots so put that fix on hold a bit and had to order up a set that I hope fit, no one just sells rack boots for these. At least not that I 100% trust will fit, lots of "fits these 500 different vehicles" type of deals.
Crazy that MOPAR only sells it with the inner tie rod or the complete rack.

Here's a TRQ part. I'd likely try it first since I have Prime and it's easily returnable.

That listing also gives several compatible part numbers.
Beck/Arnley: 103-3089
DIY Solutions: SUS02335, SUS07212
EMPI: 88-1640-K
MOOG Chassis Products: K100181
Toyota: 4553504010, 4553506020, 4553534010


That said I suspect the multi fit bellows like below will fit and work fine.
 
Yeah I ended up finding a set that had the Patriot listed among like 100 other vehicles. I'm sure one boot fits many different racks. So not super worried about fit but it would be nice if we didn't have to amazon or ebay them and have to question if the fitment is true because auto parts stores show nothing for it.
I looked at some of the trim to fits but seems like every other review states they tear quickly. No matter who the company that made them is. So I steered clear.
 
Yeah I ended up finding a set that had the Patriot listed among like 100 other vehicles. I'm sure one boot fits many different racks. So not super worried about fit but it would be nice if we didn't have to amazon or ebay them and have to question if the fitment is true because auto parts stores show nothing for it.
I looked at some of the trim to fits but seems like every other review states they tear quickly. No matter who the company that made them is. So I steered clear.
The parts stores list the fitment by what the part manufacturer says.
So those MOOG K100181 are only listed for HYUNDAI , KIA, LEXUS and TOYOTA because that's what MOOG says it fits. And the Beck part is only LEXUS, TOYOTA and VW.



I run into application issues a lot. For my 2000 Mercury Mountaineer I often have to look up Ford Explorer because part makers don't bother mentioning the Mercury. My '71 Super Beetle I have to have to look for Beetle parts and know which fit.

And my '70 Coupe deVille I'm often looking at 75-79 models for parts because the manufacturers just don't bother with older fitment.

There was a time when parts store people knew the crosses but not anymore. So the buyer has to have the knowledge (or find forums like this for such info)
 
The parts stores list the fitment by what the part manufacturer says.
So those MOOG K100181 are only listed for HYUNDAI , KIA, LEXUS and TOYOTA because that's what MOOG says it fits. And the Beck part is only LEXUS, TOYOTA and VW.



I run into application issues a lot. For my 2000 Mercury Mountaineer I often have to look up Ford Explorer because part makers don't bother mentioning the Mercury. My '71 Super Beetle I have to have to look for Beetle parts and know which fit.

And my '70 Coupe deVille I'm often looking at 75-79 models for parts because the manufacturers just don't bother with older fitment.

There was a time when parts store people knew the crosses but not anymore. So the buyer has to have the knowledge (or find forums like this for such info)
Yeah I'm still gathering the crossover parts info on the Patriot. Just about got most of it figured out what fits from other vehicles.
There are the swaps I've done. First thing they ask is the usual make model stuff and I'm like.... "No. Custom application, this engine/transmission never came in the car I have it in." And watch their heads explode because the chain of computer entries they were trained to do to find parts will no longer work. The real fun was back in my Subaru wheeling days. I had an 89 5 speed dual range trans in a 83 4 speed car with a custom crossmember I had to build so it used I forget what trans mounts. The engine was also a different year so the friction disc fit the trans but the flywheel and pressure plate was for another car entirely that matched none of the other parts, just to get it all to line up right. And it had a GM large body 100amp alternator out of a 70's Blazer on a custom bracket I made to power the winch and all the pre LED lights.
I feel bad for whoever ended up working on that car trying to figure out the frankenbuild.

Had a 2001 KIA Sportage sitting on Jeep Rubicon/Rav4 frankensuspension for a bit too (Rubicon springs with Rav4 shocks bolted right on for a 4" lift). That thing was a blast at Moab. Wish I didn't grenade the engine in it. Had like 250k miles though so it had a good run.
 
Got 3 of the 4 engine mounts changed. Need to dig in more to get that rear one. For some reason I don't have a 16mm box end wrench. Or at least could not find it. And that front lower bolt is nearly impossible to get to without dropping the crossmember. But a 12 point box end should sneak up past the transmission. So with time short yesterday I just skipped it for another day. I still have to do the lower control arms, inner and outer tierods and boots. So plenty of chances to get in there and swap that mount.

My OEM mounts did not look too terrible. Not torn, but very soft and sagging. So well see how the aftermarket filled with urethane hold up. I know 9 times out of 10 aftermarket mounts are kinda meh, which is why they got filled with urethane right out of the box.
My Patriot has about 150k miles and is a 2015. figured old enough and I was getting a shudder on acceleration sometimes. And old Subaru I had years ago did that and it was my indication that the motor and trans mounts were tearing (cheap aftermarket because OEM was no longer available for a 30+ year old car...). New mounts and the shudder would stop for about 6 months before they tore again.
 
Got 3 of the 4 engine mounts changed. Need to dig in more to get that rear one. For some reason I don't have a 16mm box end wrench. Or at least could not find it. And that front lower bolt is nearly impossible to get to without dropping the crossmember. But a 12 point box end should sneak up past the transmission. So with time short yesterday I just skipped it for another day. I still have to do the lower control arms, inner and outer tierods and boots. So plenty of chances to get in there and swap that mount.

My OEM mounts did not look too terrible. Not torn, but very soft and sagging. So well see how the aftermarket filled with urethane hold up. I know 9 times out of 10 aftermarket mounts are kinda meh, which is why they got filled with urethane right out of the box.
My Patriot has about 150k miles and is a 2015. figured old enough and I was getting a shudder on acceleration sometimes. And old Subaru I had years ago did that and it was my indication that the motor and trans mounts were tearing (cheap aftermarket because OEM was no longer available for a 30+ year old car...). New mounts and the shudder would stop for about 6 months before they tore again.
Not surprised you don't have a 16mm. Most sets I've seen over the years skip 16. I think my craftsman set (from 20 years ago) is 10, 12, 13, 14, 15, 17, 19.

150k sounds low for motor mounts to me (250k on mine) but different conditions factor in. Lack of snow, ice, and salt here is great for longevity.
 
Not surprised you don't have a 16mm. Most sets I've seen over the years skip 16. I think my craftsman set (from 20 years ago) is 10, 12, 13, 14, 15, 17, 19.

150k sounds low for motor mounts to me (250k on mine) but different conditions factor in. Lack of snow, ice, and salt here is great for longevity.
They don't use salt here but we do get snow and ice, And I take it off road filled with gear so the drivetrain gets a lot of stain at times. A lot of my sitting in gear at idle vibration went away and most of the acceleration shudder went away. I still need to do that last mount and get an alignment once more sloppy parts are replaced. Took it out in the mountains this weekend and the thing is scary in the snow right now. It just starts hunting side to side violently if the road gets slippery at highway speeds. Fine in the dry. The toe is probably way off, it had some things done to it in the past year and I never got it realigned. Had too much of the rest of life happening with repairing our house after 3 trees fell on it in an ice storm so making an appointment to get an alignment on the Jeep was way far on the back burner since it felt fine all summer.

The funny part is the Patriot has a ton of 16mm and 18mm scattered around it. I had to buy an 18mm wrench just so I had one when I got the Patriot. The rear suspension is covered in it.
Looks like I gotta get a 16mm too. I have a 6 point 16mm but that mount has a short swing. 12 point box end with a bit of bend should reach it.
 
They don't use salt here but we do get snow and ice, And I take it off road filled with gear so the drivetrain gets a lot of stain at times. A lot of my sitting in gear at idle vibration went away and most of the acceleration shudder went away. I still need to do that last mount and get an alignment once more sloppy parts are replaced. Took it out in the mountains this weekend and the thing is scary in the snow right now. It just starts hunting side to side violently if the road gets slippery at highway speeds. Fine in the dry. The toe is probably way off, it had some things done to it in the past year and I never got it realigned. Had too much of the rest of life happening with repairing our house after 3 trees fell on it in an ice storm so making an appointment to get an alignment on the Jeep was way far on the back burner since it felt fine all summer.

The funny part is the Patriot has a ton of 16mm and 18mm scattered around it. I had to buy an 18mm wrench just so I had one when I got the Patriot. The rear suspension is covered in it.
Looks like I gotta get a 16mm too. I have a 6 point 16mm but that mount has a short swing. 12 point box end with a bit of bend should reach it.
Or a more complete set. The basic sets have the most common sizes. Honestly I have a few sizes that I never used until recently. Like 11 and 13mm. Like you I bought a single 18mm a few years ago for a specific job. And haven't used it again since.

And often it's cheaper to buy another set than just the two or three you need.
 
Or a more complete set. The basic sets have the most common sizes. Honestly I have a few sizes that I never used until recently. Like 11 and 13mm. Like you I bought a single 18mm a few years ago for a specific job. And haven't used it again since.

And often it's cheaper to buy another set than just the two or three you need.
Yeah I have a set that goes from 10mm up to like 26mm and does not skip a size. It says it has a 16mm and a 18mm. I did find its 18mm (I got 2 now!) but the 16 must be under the seat or something, I carry a lot of tools in the Jeep for trail repairs. Was a cheap HF set but heck we break all the Mac and Snap On at work to the point the tool trucks pass us up when they come down our street now, got tired of us doing warranty replacements.
So we use HF tools now and they don't break any more often than the Snap On did when we use a forklift or CAT 305 as a cheater pipe working on heavy equipment.
 
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