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boricua

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Discussion starter · #1 ·
My Patriot decided to throw the ABS, Brake, and Traction Control Lights along with a code C2200 and now its decision time. It drives perfectly fine except for the codes. Most forums/posts on the issue repeat the same thing. Start with the easy and work up to the expensive.

  • Mechanic who scanned it said it wasn't the speed sensors and that it would show. They only checked by turning on the car but every YouTube video where the sensors were checked showed them scanning and driving at the same time to see what speed was registering. They said it was a C2200. I don't know if they really checked the speed readings or not. My cruise control is working and the connections looked good when I checked so I believe cruise control wouldn't work if it were the sensors but maybe someone else knows other wise.
  • I tapped on the module ( I heard this worked).
  • I slammed on the breaks and drove on sand to induce the ABS (which also somehow works for some).
  • I haven't sprayed off all the sand yet or replaced my brake pads (I heard this somehow worked for some as well).

So it appears the only option left, assuming cleaning won't help, is to replace the ABS module. Could the HCU be the problem? Maybe but that's the last item on the list after the ABS module.

My options from what I hear are:

  • Remove the module myself and send it for repair at a 3rd Party shop recommended on other jeep forums. Plug it back and done. Quoted $250 for the repair. Flash not necessary. It will be the same refurbished module.
  • Buy a new one and swap it in myself. Quote for new module from the dealer is $341 I didn't ask if that includes the flash.
  • Have the dealer install and give a warranty for $440 plus parts $341. Again I didn't ask if that includes the flash.

I should clarify that the "Swap and Done" part is anything but. As you can see from the photos the ABS module is located under a metal ceiling about 7 inches above it and there's a black hose blocking it (The black one not the two silver ones. I didn't even look to see what hose type it was but I'm imagining it won't be easy to move out the way. In other videos a type of pry bar was snuck underneath the HCU and it was popped up without having to remove the break lines saving a bleed. I don't see that being possible with this vehicle however. Ironically there is plenty of clearance for that hose to have been placed anywhere but they put it right in front of the ABS module so we could not unplug it easily.

What would you guys do at this point? Keep playing with it? Ignore the lights and drive? Pay the dealer?

Right now I'm leaning pay the dealer. If it includes the flash and I can get them to swap out my brake fluid since they're bleeding them anyways, I figured with a 2 year warranty maybe its worth the $440.00 in Labor. I prefer to get hands on when it comes to fixing problems but this is really a back-up truck and I don't have all of my tools (I'd have to buy them).

So much could go wrong. It could be the HCU and cost me more. I could do what another guy did and break a line removing it.

Any thoughts are appreciated and I'll try to update this post with a conclusion when I'm done. So many people already experienced this issue but there's not final post showing what the result was.



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From the service manual perspective, the list of possible causes is a short one:
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That said, the ABS module has two grounds that connect to the infamous G110:

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Maybe a long shot, but I might try verifying those grounds are good, fix them if not, or if they're good then get the ABS replaced.


If you're dealer is a good one, it's probably worth the $440 considering the amount of labor and what's involved, the fact that it's the brake system, and the outside chance that you get a bad ABS module out of the box and end up having to redo the whole thing, on top of trying to convince whoever you got the part from that you didn't somehow damage it during the install.
 
Re-terminate the grounds first. You'll never really be able to tell of they are good or not without doing that. You certainly can't tell if they're good just by looking at them.
 
Discussion starter · #5 ·
Awesome suggestions. I recently bought the jeep so I was unaware about the issue with the G110. I learned a lot from this Youtube video:



I'll see if I sneak a 10mm in there and play with it. I'll be a little surprised if this is the issue because there's no snow here and it's a 2016 so it's a little newer than some of the older jeeps that are having issues with it and the engine bay is clean. Great suggestions though. I'll try to update later.
 
Discussion starter · #6 ·
UPDATE - I said I would update when everything concluded and not be like other posters who you never hear back from and are left wondering how or if the issue was fixed so here goes. I can confirm that the C2200 ABS Module code is SOLVED. With a small catch. If you read my first post you know I was looking into cleaning the brakes first then playing with the grounds. I cleaned the brakes thoroughly but besides reducing the squeal when braking in reverse it did nothing to fix the code. I also played with the grounds but didnt replace them because they looked really good and though you cant tell 100% I felt with a 2016 and no hints of corrosion anywhere I could skip it. I will say a few good wacks on the module assembly did get rid of the lights for a day but it always came back. So now what? I wasn't happy about paying $440 at the dealer even though it included the flash but didnt want to buy the tools, have no warranty for a somewhat habitual problem with our model, and still have to go in for a flash so I went to another dealer an hour away and they quoted me $210 for the whole job. Replace, bleed, and flash. I gladly paid up and as you can see from the photo the "brake" light is gone. You might say wait what about the other 2 lights. The ABS and traction control? I was expecting those lights to be on because while I searched for the ABS module part (Mopar) currently on a 6 month delay (got lucky and another customer never came back for their part), my cruise control stopped working. Even with the 3 lights on cruise control still worked which lead me to believe my issue wasnt a speed sensor from the beginning but once the cruise control went out I knew it was probably a speed sensor. Sure enough after the job was done they re-ran the codes and it came back with a C101F for my front passenger. They offered another $150 to fix that issue but based on videos I've seen I feel comfortable tackling this one on my own. I may come back to update after I fix the speed sensore but the C2200 issue is done and I hope this post helps some in the future. Thanks to everyone who posts on here. I only did this post because you guys have helped me get through some tough issues and I wanted to give back to the community. Best of luck.
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Discussion starter · #8 ·
Final Update --- I did the passenger ABS/Speed Sensor Replacement. Dealer wanter $150. I paid $44 in parts and its a 20 min job that took me a little longer because the plastic strut clip was stuck so I had to sheer it off and then I just hammered the left overs deep in the hole. Not ideal, I know, but it got the job done. Remove 1- 10mm hex bolt and 2 - 14mm hex bolts, a little flat head screwdriver work and you're good to go. Clearence is very tight so you have to lay on your engine and do it with one hand. Push the red pin out first and push the tab on the connector down before pulling to separate. Long story short the C101F code is gone and the car is good as new. Good luck Everyone!!



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UPDATE - I said I would update when everything concluded and not be like other posters who you never hear back from and are left wondering how or if the issue was fixed so here goes. I can confirm that the C2200 ABS Module code is SOLVED. With a small catch. If you read my first post you know I was looking into cleaning the brakes first then playing with the grounds. I cleaned the brakes thoroughly but besides reducing the squeal when braking in reverse it did nothing to fix the code. I also played with the grounds but didnt replace them because they looked really good and though you cant tell 100% I felt with a 2016 and no hints of corrosion anywhere I could skip it. I will say a few good wacks on the module assembly did get rid of the lights for a day but it always came back. So now what? I wasn't happy about paying $440 at the dealer even though it included the flash but didnt want to buy the tools, have no warranty for a somewhat habitual problem with our model, and still have to go in for a flash so I went to another dealer an hour away and they quoted me $210 for the whole job. Replace, bleed, and flash. I gladly paid up and as you can see from the photo the "brake" light is gone. You might say wait what about the other 2 lights. The ABS and traction control? I was expecting those lights to be on because while I searched for the ABS module part (Mopar) currently on a 6 month delay (got lucky and another customer never came back for their part), my cruise control stopped working. Even with the 3 lights on cruise control still worked which lead me to believe my issue wasnt a speed sensor from the beginning but once the cruise control went out I knew it was probably a speed sensor. Sure enough after the job was done they re-ran the codes and it came back with a C101F for my front passenger. They offered another $150 to fix that issue but based on videos I've seen I feel comfortable tackling this one on my own. I may come back to update after I fix the speed sensore but the C2200 issue is done and I hope this post helps some in the future. Thanks to everyone who posts on here. I only did this post because you guys have helped me get through some tough issues and I wanted to give back to the community. Best of luck. View attachment 97466
I really appreciate your patience in explaining stuff to help people. Thanks for that. Almost 3 days of the info i collected was collated in your one single post.
In your post on oct 17,2022 you did a replace bleed and flash for $210. What did you replace? I guess they bled brake fluid (correct me if i am wrong). What was flash required for and is it flash of ABS module?
 
If you buy a new abs module, the dealer will flash your vin into it so it properly communicates with the ecm. When mine went, I bought a used module which already had a vin in it. I used the jscan app to then program the used module. Jscan will probably also do the new module. You do have to buy a jscan vehicle license to do the more advstuff, but for $25 totally worth it. I got a complete ABS unit, valves, pump and electronics for $98, a Bluetooth obd dongle for $35 and the jscan license and did it all myself. I only swapped over the electronics into my existing pump/valve assembly and didn't need to bleed the system.
 
If you buy a new abs module, the dealer will flash your vin into it so it properly communicates with the ecm. When mine went, I bought a used module which already had a vin in it. I used the jscan app to then program the used module. Jscan will probably also do the new module. You do have to buy a jscan vehicle license to do the more advstuff, but for $25 totally worth it. I got a complete ABS unit, valves, pump and electronics for $98, a Bluetooth obd dongle for $35 and the jscan license and did it all myself. I only swapped over the electronics into my existing pump/valve assembly and didn't need to bleed the system.
I am replacing my ABS unit ICU. So you were able to flash and program with the licensed jscan version? Don't want to go to a dealer if I don't have to.
 
Thankfully, yes. Saved a ton of money too. I think it technically still has the donor vin in it but it all works with no lights on or error codes.

I am replacing my ABS unit ICU. So you were able to flash and program with the licensed jscan version? Don't want to go to a dealer if I don't have to.
 
I used one of the Vgate ones recommended on the jscan site. It was like $35 off Amazon.
I forgot to ask which bluetooth obd dongle did you buy?
 
UPDATE - I said I would update when everything concluded and not be like other posters who you never hear back from and are left wondering how or if the issue was fixed so here goes. I can confirm that the C2200 ABS Module code is SOLVED. With a small catch. If you read my first post you know I was looking into cleaning the brakes first then playing with the grounds. I cleaned the brakes thoroughly but besides reducing the squeal when braking in reverse it did nothing to fix the code. I also played with the grounds but didnt replace them because they looked really good and though you cant tell 100% I felt with a 2016 and no hints of corrosion anywhere I could skip it. I will say a few good wacks on the module assembly did get rid of the lights for a day but it always came back. So now what? I wasn't happy about paying $440 at the dealer even though it included the flash but didnt want to buy the tools, have no warranty for a somewhat habitual problem with our model, and still have to go in for a flash so I went to another dealer an hour away and they quoted me $210 for the whole job. Replace, bleed, and flash. I gladly paid up and as you can see from the photo the "brake" light is gone. You might say wait what about the other 2 lights. The ABS and traction control? I was expecting those lights to be on because while I searched for the ABS module part (Mopar) currently on a 6 month delay (got lucky and another customer never came back for their part), my cruise control stopped working. Even with the 3 lights on cruise control still worked which lead me to believe my issue wasnt a speed sensor from the beginning but once the cruise control went out I knew it was probably a speed sensor. Sure enough after the job was done they re-ran the codes and it came back with a C101F for my front passenger. They offered another $150 to fix that issue but based on videos I've seen I feel comfortable tackling this one on my own. I may come back to update after I fix the speed sensore but the C2200 issue is done and I hope this post helps some in the future. Thanks to everyone who posts on here. I only did this post because you guys have helped me get through some tough issues and I wanted to give back to the community. Best of luck. View attachment 97466
I know I'm so late into your posts, but I appreciate your wisdom and the fact that you shared it with us. Like you, I refuse to run to dealer after the dealer, throwing money around that I don't have, only to end back at square one. I leaned in to check all my positive / negative connections, but not to the degree that you performed! Guess what? I'm going back, put the time in (I have time, not money) and thoroughly clean up and recheck drop voltage, resistance, and volt draw on the entire abs unit.
Again, thank you for coming back with the updates. It was not in vain!!
 
I forget the exact menus, but you have to basically use the jscan app to recalibrate the used ABS module. It makes you drive in a series of turns to complete the process.
 
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