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5w20 or 5w30?

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Mobil 1 5-20 synthetic
 
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Not correct.....

You will not get quicker lubrication on start-up with 5W-20. Both 5W-20 and 5W30 are 5W when cold.

You are correct about the manual and oil cap, however the reason for that is the issue. Chrysler agreed to 'recommend' 5W-20 so they could use the very slight improvement in fuel economy to hit the US Government CAFE targets. All things being equal 5W-30 will protect the motor slightly better and provide better fuel economy in the long run. (Especially if you opt for a synthetic)

Do a search here, on Google and visit 'Bob is the Oil Guy' for more information.


Hi. Said it before in another thread, and I'll say it again: The manual for USA 'Riots says 5w20; the oil filler cap says 5w20, why run a heavier oil? How does that make sense for better lubrication, quicker lubrication on start-up, and better flow rate through the oil ports and returns? Higher MPG with 5w30 is just confounding, because driving conditions, style, load, time of year, everything, would have to be exactly the same to test that theory. I can maybe understand a heavier oil if your 'Riot is running around in the desert SW in July, or 0W10 for the Yukon in January, but I haven't seen any info on that. Maybe the most important questions are: Oil change interval; oil filter quality; dino, blend, or synthetic oil. [PS I know the 'Riots made for Europe require 5W30, but don't know what the reason is... maybe 'cus they are diesel.] The beat goes on. PS. I use Castrol Syntec 5w20.
 
Reasons for using 5W-30 instead of 5W-20:

Reason #1
... understand a heavier oil if your 'Riot is running around in the desert SW in July...
Reason #2
...PS I know the 'Riots made for Europe require 5W30, but don't know what the reason is...
Reason #3
Chrysler agreed to 'recommend' 5W-20 so they could use the very slight improvement in fuel economy to hit the US Government CAFE targets... 5W-30 will protect the motor slightly better...
Reason #4
Synthetic 5W-30 seems to be easier to find around Phoenix here than the Synthetic 5W-20. (probably related to Reason #1)
 
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Discussion starter · #25 ·
Not correct.....

You will not get quicker lubrication on start-up with 5W-20. Both 5W-20 and 5W30 are 5W when cold.

You are correct about the manual and oil cap, however the reason for that is the issue. Chrysler agreed to 'recommend' 5W-20 so they could use the very slight improvement in fuel economy to hit the US Government CAFE targets. All things being equal 5W-30 will protect the motor slightly better and provide better fuel economy in the long run. (Especially if you opt for a synthetic)

Do a search here, on Google and visit 'Bob is the Oil Guy' for more information.
It should be understood, however, that the "5" doesn't indicate a set value, but rather a range of values, therefore, a 5w20 may very well flow better at low temps than a 5w30(of the same brand, of course.).
 
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Wooden Dog, this is not accurate.

"5" does indicate a set value (at least when the oil is new). 5W is the vicosity of the oil at −30 °C (−22 °F).

The second # (20 or 30 in this case) is at operating temperature. 150 °C (300 °F)

You will see no viscosity difference between 5w-20 and 5w-30 until at least 75 °C.


It should be understood, however, that the "5" doesn't indicate a set value, but rather a range of values, therefore, a 5w20 may very well flow better at low temps than a 5w30(of the same brand, of course.).
 
I use 5-30 synthetic in my "Riot" and I use 20-50 in my motorcycle...
I hit the rev limiter once in a great while in the Riot, (I thinks it's set around 6300 RPM...) But, the bike sees the rev limiter almost once every trip! (It's set at the factory at 5200 RPM.) The bike is a 1.7 liter "V" twin and as y'all know the Riot is an in line 4...
Both machines are used in south Florida (USA) and I'm lucky to see temperatures in the mid seventies once in a while... Typically like last nights ride home... It was 85 degrees and I was traveling 85 MPH for nearly an hour...
Under those conditions, my Riot needs all the protection it can get...!:Racing:
 
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Discussion starter · #32 ·
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I used Mobile 1 5w20 for the first time this winter, I had been using M1 5w30. I wasn't going to be towing anything, so I figured I'd try it to compare.
Didn't really notice any difference driving, but when I changed it at 5000km, it came out very black. The 5w30 never looked that black after 5000km.
 
i put 10w30 Acdelco synthetic oil.... happy with it no problems so far, it has 3,000 km´s running with it.
 
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Like many have found I also had issues with several types of 5w20 oil. (dirty oil after only 1000 miles and engine seems to run a bit loud)

I started using Mobil 1 5w30 and things are much better now. Oddly the fuel was a bit better too.
 
I just put in Mobil 1 5w20 synthetic at 3200km. It's amazing how quickly the changes are apparent. The engine is a not as noisy and it doesn't seem to struggle as much with the acceleration when I keep the engine under 3000rpm. I'm never going back to regular again.
 
Here is some damning reasons to not use 5W-20. These have been well circulated on the forum:

Jeep Patriot 5w-30 TSB

Mobil 1 Jeep Patriot Recommendation (5w-30)

Letter from Chrysler advising 5w-30 can be used

EPA Letter regarding 5w-20 (explains what car makers need to do so 5w-20 can be used to help them hit their EPA CAFE targets)
Add one more link to this:
http://www.machinerylubrication.com/Read/518/motor-oils

Specifically (and I believe this is why our engines run at a fairly cool 180 deg. F, because of the 5W20, and also why Jeep requires an oil cooler for the 2000 lb tow rating):
Any abrasive particles equal to or larger than the oil film thickness will cause wear. Filters are necessary to keep contaminants small. The other side of the equation is oil film thickness. Thicker oil films can accommodate larger contaminants.

Temperature has a big effect on viscosity and film thickness. As a point of reference, one SAE grade increase in viscosity is necessary to overcome the influence of a 20°F increase in engine temperature. At a given reference point, there is approximately a 20°F. difference between viscosity grades SAE 30, 40 and 50. SAE 20 is somewhat closer to 30 than the other jumps, because SAE 30 must be 30°F higher than SAE 20 to be roughly the equivalent viscosity.

In other words, an SAE 20 at 190°F is about the same kinematic viscosity as an SAE 30 at 220°F, which is about the same viscosity as an SAE 40 at 240°F. This approximation works well in the 190°F to 260°F temperature range. One might be surprised at the slight amount of difference between straight viscosity vs. multiviscosity oils with the same back number (for example, SAE 30, SAE 5W-30, and SAE 10W-30).

If an SAE 50 oil at 260°F is as thin as an SAE 20 oil at 190°F, imagine how thin the oil film becomes when you are using an SAE 5W-20 and your engine overheats. When an engine overheats, the oil film becomes dangerously thin and can rupture.
 
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Probably right next to the damaged, over stressed engines from running 5w-30. :p

Hey, I'm just passing on some basic lubrication/viscosity/temperature science. Thinner oil = thinner film. So long as the engine doesn't severely over heat, and/or you don't get any particles larger then the oil film then all is good.
 
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