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Tie Rod Issues?

29K views 18 replies 18 participants last post by  todde702  
#1 ·
I took my patriot in to get the door seal replaced as it continues to make an annoying crinkly sound and the tech noted that I needed a new tie rod as the left front was loose.:(

I have never had good luck with tie rods and expressed this to the tech who said they haven't either across the board. I guess they have been replacinig alot of tie rods and tie rod ends on all vehicles. I only have 12,000 on my 14 month old pat and didn't feel anything weird about my steering at all.

Anyone else experience tie rod problems yet?

I am lucky to have a really good service department as they spotted this when I couldn't feel it and isn't anywhere near the door seal. Of course this is all under warranty.:smiley_thumbs_up:

In Michigan we have some of the worst roads in the nation and I wonder if this plays into the tie rod issue. However, I am a little bummed that on an FDII I only got 12,000 out of a tie rod. I hope this is an isolated incident but somehow I get the feeling this is a issue I will be revisiting every so often.
 
#2 ·
theres a TSB out on the tierods not being torque correctly from factory. from what i have been reading the fix is to replace the bolts. however later on many people are also having to replace the tierods...there was a 2007 compass at the shop i go for this exact issue. as of today on the jeep i have 8k miles in 3 years and no problem with tierods yet. btw, u might as well have them replace the rightside aswell.
 
#5 ·
I had to replace a tie rod but that was due to an animal collision. Could this be some latent damage from the deer hit Upkev?

No outstanding TSBs on mine.
 
#6 ·
At 62K I had to replace the left tie rod end as it was loose. The right was OK, but I changed it too. I put on Moog parts which are an improvement over Mopar as the Moogs are greaseable. The Mopars were all dried out.

A week later I replaced the rear upper control arms as the pivot bushings were worn out and clunking.

Last night I was putting brakes and rotors on and noted that the front lower control arms might need replacing already. I think the rubber mount at the rear corner of the left arm has become detached as I was able to pry the arm up and down and see the rubber slide through the hole in the arm.

I am not impressed with the suspension life on this vehicle.
 
#7 ·
I took mine in for the 30,000 mile oil change and my dealer captured it to replace the bolts noted on a TSB. I had no indication anything was wrong. No noise or loose steering or anything. I've been to this dealer only once 3 months ago. The gal at the service counter remembered me and said, "hey! I think there is a service we need to do on your car".

I'm impressed!
 
#11 ·
I took mine in for the 30,000 mile oil change and my dealer captured it to replace the bolts noted on a TSB. <snip>
I have a 2008 4x4 FDI 5MT also, built in January, 2008. When was yours built? I am wondering if the TSB is effective for mine also.
 
#9 ·
I believe the TSB is for the lower control arm bolts.
 
#10 ·
Interesting. I noted that my steering was pulling a little to the left. Nothing major, just a little. Then I saw that the edge of one front tyre had loads of tread all across, but the other had the shoulder of the tread on the outside edge worn down a lot with a feathered edge to the tread blocks.

A quick investigation shows that one tie-rod (or track-rod depending where you are and what you call them) was straight and the other was slightly bent. This Patriot is 1 year old with low mileage - 9000 miles - and I've only had it a week - this was nothing that I've done to it that's for sure. I've contacted the Jeep dealership where I got it and voiced my displeasure at being sold an approved used car that was supposedly just serviced with a bent tie-rod and worn tyre.
 
#12 ·
Did an inspection this weekend after noting my tires are wearing oddly already (25K miles) and found the right side ball joint quite sloppy. You cannot just buy the ball joint, you have to get the entire lower control arm at a cost of $142 (best price I found online, lists at $219). It doesn't look like anyone is aftermarketing this yet. I hate to replace this with a non-greasable unit.
 
#14 ·
I had a bent tie rod and i could not find just the tie rod. I had to get a new rack and pinion which was $550 from my dealer, but i found one for a front wheel drive pat and took the tie rods off that one and put them on my rack. It was only $180 after the core. I also had a bad ball joint but that i couldn't find that anywhere but the dealer.
 
#15 ·
I have noticed some noise from the front end and have felt some vibration from my steering wheel. So when I went to my friends shop to get an oil change...I checked the front right wheel and found there was some movement when pulling and pushing the tires from the side. Tie Rods needs to be replaced. Have to bring to dealership and hope it's under warranty. I have 51000Km on my Pat.
 
#16 ·
I went in (to Dealer) 2 weeks ago with an irregular metallic noise from under the front passenger side. could not determine cause from visible inspection. Dealership said tie rods loose and replaced both. I only have 24 000km on the vehicle and do not drive aggressively (came from a 20 year old blazer that couldn't be pushed!). The only other tie rod issue I've ever had was on a 18 year old coronet with close to 200 000 miles on it so I was a little concerned.
However, the noise persisted and became more noticeable in high winds the following day. Went back in and they replaced the upper strut mount bearing. Was quiet until I turned into my drive when I thought I heard 1 clank. Went for a drive this morning and verified noise still there.

Any ideas??
I plan to take it back in first thing Monday!

Noise is generally random. Could be turning, going over a rough patch, or straight and smooth driving. Sounds like something dangling particularly since strong winds tend to increase frequency. But again nothing visible. Best description I can think of is a free cambuckle on a tie-down occasionally bumping against a truck box.
 
#18 ·
rack n pinion leaks through tierod

Hey, I actually found the thread looking for rack n pinion problems to see if they're common.
My 09 4x4 with 75000 kms has a power steering fluid leak out the driver side of the rack, it leaks into the inner tierod boot and I saw it dripping out the end of the boot. Mechanic says you can't replace the seal, its a total rack n pinion replacement and followup alignment. Total 1200 bucks for a bloody small leak. Anyone else have something similar? RRO related?
 
#19 ·
Hey, I actually found the thread looking for rack n pinion problems to see if they're common.
My 09 4x4 with 75000 kms has a power steering fluid leak out the driver side of the rack, it leaks into the inner tierod boot and I saw it dripping out the end of the boot. Mechanic says you can't replace the seal, its a total rack n pinion replacement and followup alignment. Total 1200 bucks for a bloody small leak. Anyone else have something similar? RRO related?
$1200!? Get a second quote. Rebuilt Rack assemblies should only be about $200 (max, rockauto shows racks in the $137 range with a $75 core charge) and there's no way there is $1000 worth of labor to replace it. 4-6 hours tops and even at $100 an hour (which would be a high hourly rate) you should be at a max of $800.