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Suspension sagging

4.1K views 8 replies 3 participants last post by  Sandstone  
#1 ·
Hey all, I just got a quote from chrysler saying I have weak struts, and need all joints and bushings replaced which is going to cost about $3200. I have 4 new struts, but i was wondering if there is a different part number for the trail rated fd2 suspension. The rear sags almost onto the wheels but has full range of motion. It also squeaks badly going over bumps. I used to take it offroad to moab but I've been worried about it now that I only have about about a 2 inch gap between my rear wheel and the fender along with some "drifter bro" camber. I can't afford chrysler, but its wearing my tires out. Any thoughts?
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#2 ·
If you're changing struts, consider adding new rear springs along with a new set of rear upper control arms to fix the rear sagging and "drifter" camber.

The squeaking may be due to the lack of lubrication of the swivel ball joints in the rear upper control arms, the rear lower control arms, and the toe links.

Sounds like this:

These joints don't have grease fittings, but if you have a grease gun with a injector needle or spray can of grease you might be able to carefully pull the seal back (see pics) to get enough lube in there to quiet it down till you have the $$$ to replace the part. You might be able to pin down which joints are dry by grabbing on to the part with a pair of channel locks and working it back and forth.

When you decide to change them out, you might add some grease to the new parts before you install them.

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#5 ·
If you're changing struts, consider adding new rear springs along with a new set of rear upper control arms to fix the rear sagging and "drifter" camber.

The squeaking may be due to the lack of lubrication of the swivel ball joints in the rear upper control arms, the rear lower control arms, and the toe links.

Sounds like this:

These joints don't have grease fittings, but if you have a grease gun with a injector needle or spray can of grease you might be able to carefully pull the seal back (see pics) to get enough lube in there to quiet it down till you have the $$$ to replace the part. You might be able to pin down which joints are dry by grabbing on to the part with a pair of channel locks and working it back and forth.

When you decide to change them out, you might add some grease to the new parts before you install them.

View attachment 92506

View attachment 92507
Thanks for the tip this should assist with squeaking issues
 
#3 ·
I'll add too that the squeaking/creaking can be caused the dry sway bar bushings or worn sway bar links.

I use graphite to lube the bushings, and replaced my front sway bar links with JKS Quicker disconnects.

If you don't want disconnects, Moog makes a sturdier front sway bar link.
 
#6 ·
I'll add too that the squeaking/creaking can be caused the dry sway bar bushings or worn sway bar links.

I use graphite to lube the bushings, and replaced my front sway bar links with JKS Quicker disconnects.

If you don't want disconnects, Moog makes a sturdier front sway bar link.
Would swaybar disconnects help me out more with articulation offroad?
 
#4 ·
Did you have a shop do the strut changes? My very first strut change I did I grabbed a long bar to lower the trailing arm enough to get the strut removed and it stretched the rubber on the joint so bad it had a very similar look to it. I now know that I should have removed the connection towards the front of the vehicle and it would have come out easily. As for the trail rated suspension I am fairly certain they would have different specs than the standard vehicle.