Too be honest it's supply vs demand....

There is such a small demand for lifts on the patrot (minus us) compared to a f-150, wrangler or toyota ya know. I would love to see someone like skyjacker make a lift but there just isn't a demand for the product i know it sucks but stu's and RRO is pretty good ya know.

 

Are you Happy with the way your Patriot rides with Stus Coils? I would hope so compared to the factory springs.

 

You might as Stu or RRO about your thinking and see what they think. Generally the reason you lift a vehicle is to add bigger tires, adding to real clearance increases (raising the body but leaving the drive train the same is really no increase (pumpkin to ground).

Also, more body lift more opportunity for roll-over.

 

Sounds awesome, any ideas on how much it would cost to get this done?

 

I realize this does not increase clearance under rear suspension, but it would improve breakover, approach and dep angles plus increase clearance under middle of vehicle.
I did'nt get chance to check it out, but it looks as though the front subframe is mounted the same way - so if you did both imagine the lift you could achieve!
In effect this is a body lift which every other offroad nut does to their rigs on top of the suspension lift.
Basically all you need is a spacer on top of the struts (ala RRO lift) plus matching height spacer under the four subframe mounts (on rear).
I am thinking 2inch subframe spacers plus 2inch(plus on mine) STU's coils gives at least 4inch lift with only the change on CV angles of 2inch.
Anybody got a RRO lift they don't want ????? epper:

 

It's a great idea, plus if you can get longer struts, you can increase suspension travel some (though the lower control arm bushing arrangement is the main limiting factor).

 

I think you're over simplifying what this would take, anything connected to the body will need to be lengthened. Struts, sway bar links, brake lines and cables. The front would need the same and throw in a steering spacer. Not to mention any unforseen obstacles. There is a reason independent suspension lifts are so expensive.

 

I guess I am over simplifying how easy it would be, but that was the idea of the thread - to explain my "basic" idea and then get your guys feedback and ideas.
I had considered brake lines and cables, mufler hangers and sway bar links etc - I guess I veiw all that as easy stuff, I have a fairly mechanical background and have built complete Streetrods from bare steel in the past.

Cost was'nt really a consideration as I would do all the fab and fitting myself, biggest cost would be making or buying the strut spacers, and maybe the RRO spacers are the simplest way to go.

I guess I was just curious why nobody has discussed this method before - don't get me wrong the STUS lift is brilliant but more is always better, right?

 

All I can say is, do it! Sounds like you have the ability to do this, and we'd all love to see it done, with step by step tips and photos as you go.

 

sounds interesting, maybe when you're building, build 2/3 more for sale to cover the costs of materials and out of pocket expenses.

Body lift and Suspension lift are all completed in off road vehicles to place bigger tires under the vehicle to allow for more clearance.

One thing to note is your local laws on lifted vehicles, I know where I am they have limits and I know some guys with large lifts were getting tagged with huge fines/being towed for not being within tolerances for their make/model.

I have my own strange wants for the patriot....like a Turbo to beef up the under powered engine. Well actually a Super charger but a turbo is much more realistic...lol

 

So its been a couple of weeks, any progress?

 

This sounds great and all but you lift it more to fit a larger tire. How large of a tire is to large for our little 4 cyl engines? As far as I know there is no way to regear it.

 

so far if you want 3/4in taller and no rub without lift a 215/70/r16 works

a 225/70/r16 is little over an inch but also inch or so wider about half ppl have rubbing other have don't

225/75/r16 works but might require wheel spacers and is illegal in some states

a few have put 235/70/r16 with the rro or stu lift. im waiting on an email from revtek on more info for their patriot lift i think its same concept as the rro a strut spacer.

 

Time is at a premium for me at the moment - this will end up a summer project I think, when its a little more pleasant working in the shed at night!
I currently run 235/65/17 Yokohama AT/S tires and they are great. I will probably look at going up a size when i've worn them out as there is plenty of clearance with the Stus HD lift kit installed.
Dont really notice any lack of power problems with the larger tires - even when the familys all in and the rear is loaded with my tools and gear etc - it's no V8 pickup but the economys great!

As a side note I pulled my camper up a moderate slope today and really struggled in reverse, so turned the Pat around and pulled it up in first gear (forwards) without a worry. Obviously 1st (CVT FD1) is far lower geared than Reverse.

 

Yeah, some of the ideas here is kinda what i was thinking of doing to my pat . like looking into geting the STUs lift kit and the RRO and see if i cant put them together and gain greater lift and clearance. But at what cost on the ball joints and other components.

 

Don't do both - your struts will be too short - my fronts "top out" quite often with just the Stu's lift. That was partly my thinking behind the body lift style mods. By spacing the complete subframe away from the body you don't affect any of the suspension components. The RRO lift does half of that, all you need is matching spacers at the subframe mounts.
I think also with the Stus Lift and the RRO lift the Pat mike look a little silly - sort of too tall and skinny?
Maybe Stus lift plus one inch body lift with the big tires would be perfect.

 

Second thoughts - scrub what I just said, the RRO lift won't affect your strut length.

 

I'd love to comment on this but can't at the moment due to the fact that I dont have a Pat to pull apart and assess.

Anything is doable at the end of the day, its just a matter of how far someone wants to go and what they want to spend.......oh, and how long they want their car off the road for!

 

Thanks for listening, Stu. I would be interested in what can be done with the 2011, as it already has longer springs. Can it go another 2 inches without seriously affecting the driveline geometry?

 

It's a Unibody basically the same as a Jeep Cherokee except the Suspension on the Patriot is Independent. You ever see a Jeep Cherokee with a Body Lift, NO. You can't do a Unibody Body Lift. Good Luck with that.

 

I understand the concept of a uni-body and did some research and found a suspension picture that showed the suspension and body only couple ft. apart is there anyway to put like maybe a 1in or 2inch block between where it (suspension) bolts up to the re-enforced body or will that mess up everything?

sorry just curious.

 

In simple terms if I fit FD II coils and larger tyres I will achieve as good a lift as if I'd fitted either Stu's colis or an RRO lift yes?

 

not really.
you can't go that high with tires.
you are limited because of rubbing.
you can try lifting and bigger tires.certain sizes will then work without rubbing.there are threads with those sizes on the forum somewhere.

 

FD2 coils won't acheive the same as Stus coils, its more than ride height - spring rate and ride are worlds apart. I parked next to a new 2011 Patriot at the stealership on Friday (with inch higher rider height - read FD2 springs) and it looked like a lowrider next to mine - easy 2inch difference, and when I drove it I just wanted my own Patriot back.
Had to laugh, the service guy asked if I had fitted stiffer springs or something and where I got them (STUS suspension decals all over the vehicle) - they have no idea.

 

GymCareNZ I've noticed that you are wearing front tow hooks on an euro (export) bumper! I spent lots of time this weekend reading the forum and found no one who had been donde that. How did you installed the hooks?? I notice the cuts on the bumper are higher than the ones in the US bumper. Any info you could provide will be appreciated

 

so any update?

 

Thats exactly what i'm talking about Justin - RRO lift does half the job, and if you put matching spacers between the subframe mounts and the unibody - the suspension geometry remains unchanged.
PS thanks for posting the tow hook link.
Dom.

 

so whats the news?

 

Dude! - you are totally missing the point. I was'nt suggesting seperating the floor pan from the body in any way shape or form - that is plain dumb.
Read my starter post again. everything in the suspension/diff area is mounted in a "cradle" that is bolted to the unibody (1 at front & 1 at rear). if this cradle is spaced away from the unibody it will give more ground clearance and better approach/departure angles. The rear cradle is attached with just four large bolts (plus minor fasteners for ancillary components).