I'm not familiar with those products, but by all accounts synthetic oil is better than conventional oil, and STP is reputable. In a new engine, I'd say go for it. However, I would not go as long between changes as they say you can.

Readers with older engines, beware! You might want to flush your old oil before adding synthetic. My BIL put synthetic in his aging engine and because it was so good, it dissolved a zillion miles of accumulated crud, plugging the ports, and wrecking an old but (formerly) functioning engine. But you have a new engine so that shouldn't be a problem.

Here's some advice from those who know more than I: http://blog.amsoil.com/is-an-engine-flush-good-or-bad/

PS, welcome to the forum. Please visit the newbie threads and introduce yourself.

 

Thank you very much for the info.. I'll head over to the newbie section now lol.. thanks again.

 

Please note my edit to post #2 above. I just inserted "not," so my post now reads "I would not go as long between changes as they say you can." As I wrote my original post I inadvertently left out the word "not" and that makes a big difference to the meaning of my post!

I think manufacturers in general tend to overestimate their products, whether it's the maintenance cycle of a vehicle or the efficacy of aftermarket products. Is synthetic oil better? Probably. Is it over-the-top fantastic? I doubt it. But they're selling the stuff and they want to convince you of how good they think it is. So in summary, I believe the synthetic oils are good, but I don't believe everything the manufacturers say. I suggest you keep to your maintenance schedules.

 

As long as it meets the API specifications it should be o.k.. It is tough to know who actually makes the STP oil. The guys at Bobistheoilguy.com cannot i.d. the manufacturer. They generally agree that it is an o.k. oil, but nothing special beyond that (just opinions).

https://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php/topics/3976143/1

The recent test of STP 5w30 was very average: STP Pro Formula SAE 5W-30 API SN/ILSAC GF-5 Volatility tested at the max. of 15. Lower is better. But, you cannot assume that the 5w20 has the same numbers as the 5w30, since 5w20 is rumored to have some synthetic component in it to meet the 5w20 specs.

 

I am currently using Mobil One Full Synthetic 5W/20 in my 08 that I bought new with 62K. It now has 125K. MY OCI is 10K. It runs fine.

In the many, many vehicles I've owned over the last 30 years, I've mostly used the Walmart Supertech conventional oil in them and have had zero problems, even putting well over a hundred thousand miles on each of the vehicles. I live in Vermont and the vehicles will rust before the engine dies.

Oil type/brand/OCI will always be a subject of great debate. Believe it or not, there are still people that believe in the 3K OCI. If it makes them feel better, then more power to them.

 

^^ What he said. Other things are going to wear out before the engine does. I never lost an engine and only know of a precious few incidents of engine failures. Walk through any parking lot -- even the general store with 3 cars in front -- and you'll find some rust spots. IMHO, a carefully followed maintenance schedule is more important than the brand. Nah, 3000 mile oil changes are a waste of good oil, but too many people think they can go double that, and that probably isn't a good idea. Manufacturers want to keep the cost of ownership down so they stretch the intervals. I change mine roughly at 5,000 miles.

 

Thanks for the feedback.. noted.

 

Page 499 of Owner's Manual:
For best performance and maximum protection under all types of operating conditions, the manufacturer only recommends engine oils that are API Certified and meet the requirements of FCA Material Standard MS-6395.


Since there are plenty of oils available that meet this standard, I don't use any oil that doesn't have MS-6395 on the label.