Take a look through the Engine Cooling System section of the 2014 manual:

https://www.jeeppatriot.com/attachments/2014-engine-engine-cooling-system-compass-patriot-pdf.94691/?hash=5947b32e7f8ec5fb8ecbe6fc039213d9

 

On the tensioner, be aware that Sandstone's specs. are given for both the pulley alone AND for the entire assembly. I found the the idler pulley torque specs. buried in the "installation" section (not in the table):

"Position pulley (5 or 9) in mounting position. Install idler pulley mounting bolt. Tighten bolt to 48 N·m (35 ft. lbs.)."

Barzm - my unsolicited opinion: On other forums I frequent, there is MUCH talk about the decline in quality of aftermarket parts. Even once trusted companies like Gates, Moog, Timken, etc. are questioned regarding their declining quality due to Asian manufacturing. When I replace my idlers and tensioners, I am going to pay just a bit more and get OEM ones from Rock Auto. Pay once, cry once. I "think" that many Gates belts are now Asian made. I read that good belts are Bando (U.S.), Continental, and OEM. Again, just my opinion.

PLEASE SHARE YOUR BELT AND IDLER/TENSIONER REPLACEMENT EXPERIENCE. I am going to do this same project in the next month and decided to replace everything at once due to mileage. Hate to install a new belt, then have one of the other components go bad soon after.

Thanks!!!!

 

On the tensioner, be aware that Sandstone's specs. are given for both the pulley alone AND for the entire assembly.

Are you saying the 212 in lbs torque spec is for both the singular bolt holding the pulley onto the tensioner and also the two bolts holding the tensioner unit onto the engine. English is my second language so I misunderstand things sometimes. Thanks for the clear up

 

According to 2014 manual:
Idler pulley 35 ft lbs
Tensioner mounting bolt(1) 212 in lbs, since it refers to a singular mounting bolt im assuming its for the pulley on the actual tensioner and not the 2 mounting bolts that keep the tensioner unit in place? Couldn’t find the torque specs in the manual for the two tensioner unit mounting bolts, if anyone has this info it would be appreciated yo hear.
Thanks

 

With the tensioner assembly, Sandstone's linked table (page 24) shows that you can replace just the black tensioner pulley alone and torque that to 18 ft. lbs. (216 inch lbs. +/-). Sandstone's linked table also lists replacing the entire tensioner assembly shown in the picture and those mounting bolt(s) at 40 foot lbs.. The 2 idler pulleys look to just screw into the engine block by themselves and are torqued to 35 foot lbs.. Someone correct me if I am wrong. Hope this helps.

EDIT 8/22/2022: I finally installed new tensioner assembly, 2 idler pulleys, and belt. I put marks on the mounting bolts and tested the OEM torque before replacement (loosen, then torque wrench retighten). The 2 idler pulleys at 35 ft. lb. seem to be correct. THE OTHER 2 TORQUE VALUES SEEM TO BE REVERSED. The smaller diameter tensioner assembly bolts (2) are about 212 inch lbs. (18 ft. lbs.). I didn't loosen/tighten the tensioner pulley bolt, but I am assuming it is 40 ft. lbs.

There are many YouTube videos showing these procedures. Things I found helpful: 1.) move the coolant reservoir out of the way (1 bolt). 2.) on 2014, remove 7 fasteners and let plastic engine cover drop out of way (no need to fully remove). 3.) Fully retract the tensioner and install a pin in the hole (like new one) to have access to top tensioner bolt. Tensioner can be pulled out/put in from top without removing pulley. My steps eliminate some extra work in the videos and gives good access both top and bottom. Some bolts are easier to torque from bottom - others from top. Fairly easy project. I ground down a 16mm socket for access space (torque wrench, belt tensioning)

 

Getting read to do idler pulleys, tensioner assembly, and belt in a cold dark garage tomorrow night, this post has been super helpful, thanks for the help, thoughts & prayers!

 

I bought a tensioner assembly from gates like 8-9 years ago but never got around using it until now. The part number is indeed different on this one than the newer ones. They were actually made in Canada at that time and not Mexico or China.