I know that there are Members on this forum who have 200,000 miles on their Patriots. You'll have to wait for their response though. I don't have that many miles on my Patriot.

 

Is it two-wheel drive or four-wheel drive ? Automatic or stick shift ?

 

I see a lot of Patriots for sale across the country with 150l+ miles, so I'd say barring anything unusual you should get at least 100K more miles from that onw.

 

One Member on this forum rossoracer has used and abused his Patriot off-road and has had O problems with his.

 

Yes, I've got 95,000 miles on mine, with only damage that's to be expected from what I've done. A couple years ago, the top of a sand dune broke my approach angle. I knew my AC was already shot beforehand and that the condenser had been bashed in on that dune, so I wouldn't have AC until that was fixed(not that I tend to use it anyway...that's what the window crank is for). What I didn't know, due to apparently normal engine temps, was that the radiator and fan assembly were also damaged. A friend of mine is replacing it this week. That was due to my being a bit too adventurous at the sand dunes, not a fault of Patriot design.

Under regular driving, the only thing that I've really had trouble with is the brakes and tires wearing down, but that happens no matter what you buy. Suspension is a weak point on Patriots, but in my case it could be due as much to off-road use as it is to weak Chrysler parts. If the suspension gives you any issues, you can find a replacement for any bad parts from Moog company(best suspension parts many of us know).

Ignatz, on the other hand, has a 2008 that(as I understand) lasted 110,000 miles before the original CVT needed replaced under warranty(not sure how often he changed fluid), and so far has what, another 110,000 on the replacement? Only one or two other issues that he's mentioned, I think.

Sometime last year I happened on a craigslist ad for a 2007 with 300,000 miles on it, down in Florida. Within the last week or so, somebody posted a thread showing a 2008 with, what was it, 368,000?

Basically, if a Patriot has been taken care of, it'll likely take care of you. I think only 5% or so of folks here have reported only problems. Every vehicle model gets a bad batch now and then. Keep up on engine oil changes, tire rotations, trans fluid(CVT works best if you change fluid every 60,000 miles or a little sooner), and all the rest, and it should last you a looong time.

 

How long a used car last is 95% how the previous owner treated it.

as stated, plenty of people on the site with 150k+ miles and several with 200,000+.

IF maintained the engine is very reliable, the only actual engine problems I've seen in the last ~4 years on this forum has been self inflicted (hydro locked after going through too deep of a lake).

the CVT transmissions are fluid sensitive, so making sure fluid changes are done on time is important, but at 65K miles, if you buy from a dealer have them change it as part of the deal, if buying used, just go ahead and get it replaced, as that's the start of the first interval (first interval is 65-100k miles depending on driving) so you probably won't have to worry about it for the rest of your ownership of the vehicle.

Look to see if other services have been done with records, oil changes, spark plugs, even tire rotations etc. See if it had any warranty work done. having warranty work done is NOT a bad thing unless they had to try to repair the same issue multiple times, but it means somebody paid attention to their car and had its issues addressed if any.

if you are able to get a car with good service history, then you probably have a winner on your hands. if you get one that is a bit iffy you're taking a risk and its worth making sure you have a small fund to get anything repaired that might need it. actually having a car repair fund you put a little bit of money into each pay check isn't a bad idea for any and all cars.

 

I'd look at the CarFax on the car to see if there's any records of maintenance (oil changes mainly). If the Patriot was taken to a Jeep/Dodge dealership or most other new car dealerships, the maintenance may have been noted on the record for it. It may say "vehicle serviced", "oil changed", etc..

Is this Patriot from a dealership or privately owned? I'd be leery if the owner can't provide proof of maintenance. I mean how hard is it to slam an oil change receipt into the glovebox after the service writer hands you the receipt? You have the receipt in your hand, and then you're getting INSIDE the vehicle. I always assume if the owner doesn't have the records, that the services were not performed on time if at all. I've known of people who bought new cars and NEVER changed the oil. They just started adding oil when the engine wears out to the point where it's burning oil.

Unless the price is super low, I'd pass and move on to one with full maintenance records. All it takes is a few missed oil changes to effectively lower the car's future longevity.

How much are they asking? Because you can get a great deal on a leftover 2016 brand new one (with full warranty). Back when I bought mine 2 years ago there were brand new leftover ones for $13,500 (with automatic tranny, AC, cruise, AM/FM/CD/ipod hookup). It was a FWD though and not 4x4. 4x4's were $17k. They had almost every color in stock, too. I live in the frigid north, so I bought the 4x4 but if you don't live in a snowy area, the FWD will be fine. And if you do end up getting a new one, I'd probably avoid the CVT transmission and get the regular 6 speed one). Though we have lots of members on here that love their CVT's.

I love my Patriot. It's super useful -- a nice practical box. I helped a friend move last weekend. We got everything in it in 2 trips.

 

That's true, around here, new ones have 6-8000 dollars of discounts, and 2wd models are as low as $13,000, brand new with warranty, 4x4's with most of the options you would want are under $20k, unless you're paying cash, you're getting a smoking deal on a new car, that won't lose much value, at least around here, they don't lose much.

 

Buying anything used is always a crap-shoot. The brand doesn't matter. You are a the mercy of how the previous owner treated it.

I bought mine new and I'm just over 220,000 miles now. I thoroughly love it. If you're willing to cope with little stuff (things will go wrong), most modern vehicles are good for 250,000 before major problems crop up.

Issues I've had:
1) My first transmission was replaced under warranty. I now have more miles on the replacement than on the original with no problems. I just had the routine transmission maintenance done recently. Yours isn't even due for its first tranny service (100,000 miles), so you can probably lay that issue to rest.
2) At around 190,000 miles I had a wiring problem that tormented me and my dealer for a month or so. Finally the problem was found and I had the engine harness replaced.

Since then its been like a new vehicle. Amazingly no rattles or squeaks until just recently and still quite minor. For comparison I rode in a friend's Audi last week and his sounds like a bucket of bolts. He's 50,000 miles behind me.

I'm in the habit of getting fairly good longevity out of my vehicles. I got 250,000 out of my 2001 Pontiac. At that point both the transmission and the ECM (car's computer) were dying so I donated it to the Good News Garage. They fixed it up and its still on the road.

BEWARE: With any used vehicle (regardless of brand--Cadillacs or Chevies, Hondas or Jeeps) the last owner got rid of it for a reason. Don't be surprised if a month or so into your new vehicle something goes wrong. Then you will know why the last guy traded it. That's why it only costs half what a new one costs. AIC makes a good suggestion--keep a little money aside for that first repair. jd_1138 also has a point: explore the possibility of a new Patriot -- they're running some pretty good deals right now -- maybe look at a 2016 leftover.

The most common reason young cars find there way onto a used car lot is because of an accident but don't let that spook you. Even an accident vehicle may survive for a long time. My above-mentioned Pontiac got broadsided only a few months after I bought it, but I got a good repair job and it lasted for 10 more years and 200,000+ miles. If you've got a mechanic you trust, take the vehicle there before you buy it and get a professional opinion.

Final note--if you've got a good dealer you can trust, they can help you get the miles out of it. The oil changes might cost a little more there than at the express-lube places, but if you're a familiar face in their door, they'll probably take care of you if/when problems happen.

 

This is a great thread because I picked up my 11' Riot last November with 62,000 on the OD and now I have 89,000 because I drive 100 miles a day round trip to work. And I have been getting nervous about breaking 100,00 and the reliability after

 

On the other hand, buying used will save you many dollars over your lifetime. I've always bought used. (Patriot was totaled before I bought it, so you can see IO'm not that worried about a used car). I've never bought from a used car dealer either, always from an individual. Those are the ones Ignatz is talking about, many are traded in due to a problem.

People don't always get rid of a car because they're having problems with it, there are many reasons someone might want a different or newer car.
Some people understand how you lose money every time you trade in a vehicle to the dealer so they sell it themselves. Others trade in all their lives and are content to pay to do it the easier way.
If you are mechanically inclined, or have someone who is to drive the car and check it over, you can find very good used vehicles at very good prices.
Don't let the fact that it's used scare you.
Good Luck!

 

I don't know what OP is looking for, but around here, you can get, admittedly almost base models, patriots starting in the low $13,000 NEW:

New 2016 Jeep Patriot in Gilbert | New Jeep SUV -

Now, you might be able to find one with a few miles on the clock and a few more options for... about the same price used.

 

X2, I picked up my 2015 last Sept. for $7,500 below sticker, a 4X4 Latitude with a sticker of $26k, I paid $18.5k. They had a used 2014 with 10k mi on the lot at the time they were asking roughly the same price for (sure I could have probably talked them down some, but once the difference in finance rates on used vs. new was factored it would likely still have been a wash, and the 2014 may have actually cost more factoring I n interest), so it really didn't make sense to buy used. Especially at the end of the model year (and especially on the Patriot as it is soon to be discontinued) you can often wind new ones for not much more than a 1-3 year old used one.

 

Based on Kelley Blue Book website, my basic of the basic(very Jeepy) 2010, in the shape it's in, with the 95,000 miles, sold "private party" style, should fetch $8100-$8400. Down quite a bit since I last checked, but that was probably 4 years ago, haha. No worries, I don't plan on selling it anyways.

 

Considerations when buying new:

• Its a one-stop operation. You drive in your old one and drive out with a new one.
• If you treat a brand new vehicle right it can last almost forever. There are no worries how it was treated or what happened to it in the past.
• There are unadvertised (secret) dealer incentives you may not know about and when you start actually negotiating the dealer will bring those into the discussion. It usually follows, "Let me talk to my boss about your offer." They may not say, "Yup there's a rebate we can offer you," usually its more like, "Yeah, if you'll sign right now and don't shop around, we can do it."
• Interest rates are lower for a new car.
• If you're a regular customer at an established dealer they'll take care of you in other ways, like loaner cars even after its off warranty, etc.
• They want repeat customers and intend to treat you right.

Considerations of buying used from a business -- dealer or lot:

• Its a one-stop operation. You drive in your old one and drive out with a newer one.
• A used vehicle has already absorbed that first-year depreciation.
• They can usually provide financing and they will have a list of all the area banks and their rates.
• A business will usually offer some sort of warranty, and if a really obvious problem shows up in the warranty period, they will probably take care of it. (However, if you're just feeling insecure, hear a funny noise, or can't explain or demonstrate the problem, they will ignore you.) They buy them at auction or trade-in and have no better idea than you do if its going to be reliable or not.
• They want repeat customers and intend to treat you right.
• Beware the place that says, "We finance anybody" Somebody is paying for that promise and its not the bad credit risks, its the people that actually pay for the car. (Actually sometimes the bad credit risks do pay, by putting 50% down (probably what the business has into the car). Keep that thought in mind when negotiating your price.

Considerations of buying from an individual -- private sale:

• Its probably a one-owner vehicle and the person has done their best to take care of it (but of course they aren't going to warranty it). Caveat emptor.
• They have no overhead (building, staff, mechanics, etc) so they can sell for less than a business.
• The seller probably has no intention of cheating you. If s/he knows the car is a problem they will trade it in or sell it to a business that advertises "We buy cars for cash!"
• Only down side is that you have to sell your old one -- if its a good one, you too can sell it privately for a better dollar than trading it in. However, if its giving you trouble, you probably better not sell it privately or if you do expect a knuckle sandwich. If you trade or sell to a dealer it may be wholesaled a couple times before anyone finds out what the problem is. Hopefully a business that offers warranties.

Did I miss anything?

 

You missed my scenario which is the same as what @griff mentioned earlier. Private seller, selling a rebuilt salvage title vehicle. High risk/High Reward purchase. Private seller purchased vehicle at insurance auction like this.
https://erepairables.com/salvage-cars-auction/suvs/jeep/patriot/2014-jeep-patriot-19865358

Seller repaired the vehicle, and is looking to flip it after repairs.

For anyone purchasing any used vehicle, I would highly recommend purchasing a Bluedriver OBD2 scanner. This scanner will read codes that most scanners won't including ABS, Airbag, and those that won't turn on any dash lights to make you aware of any currently existing problems prior to making your purchase.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00652G4TS/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1


On my purchase the Bluedriver scanner made me aware of the following codes while showing no dash lights were illuminated.
P0295- "Cylinder 12 Injector 'A' Circuit High. Likely cause was said to be a partially clogged fuel injector. I took it into the shop, had them perform a full fuel injector cleaning flush, and code is now gone.

B1661- "Front Fog Lamp Control Circuit Open". This directed me to inspect the fog lights, and sure enough the fog lights weren't working. I inspected further and found the fog light wiring harness was not present. Likely damaged and not replaced when vehicle was in the accident. Not a purchase show stopper for me, I'll replace the fog light harness.

In regards to the OP's original question. When I was shopping for a used Patriot, I've seen many 2007 and 2008's with over 160K miles on them. There's no reason you shouldn't be able to get 200K+ miles on more recent vehicles if maintained.

 

I just hit 210,000 miles on my '08 CVT 4x4. I've had nothing major go wrong, basic mileage stuff. CV shafts, wheel bearings, alternator, struts.

 

I have a 2011 with 150k, it's a five speed with the original clutch. Besides tires and brakes I've only had to replace ball joints, tie rods, and a wheel bearings.

 

My only suggestion is if they are asking over 10,000 dollars, I would consider getting a new one as much as they are discounting them now if it is possible since I have no clue what you are able to afford. And I don't see what model trim you are looking at so that makes it impossible to really know what that vehicle might be worth.

 

yeah you can find a new Patriot for 15-16 k with the 3,000 rebate offer

im at 55,000 miles , bought mine at 47 or 48. Some repair work when first got it, dealership covered it, a loose hood and got a part for it. . Replaced battery twice , oil changes.

 

yeah you can find a new Patriot for 15-16 k with the 3,000 rebate offer

im at 55,000 miles , bought mine at 47 or 48. Some repair work when first got it, dealership covered it, a loose hood and got a part for it. . Replaced battery twice , oil changes.

Really! Two batteries in less than 10,000 miles! What was causing that? I think you found out why the last guy got rid of his Patriot. Hopefully you found and corrected the problem.

Yeah, Patriots are famous for hood flapping. There were some threads on here about that a couple years ago. My hood flaps a little when passing an oncoming semi on a narrow road. I've gotten used to it -- I know its not coming off.

 

My 2012 is at 106,000, which I purchased new. I live in Maine and several trips to Minn and back and Florida and back. My only regret is no a/c on the 5-6 days/year when I really need it. I have the basic fwd Sport, 5 speed manual. It runs like new and still fun to drive. Repairs: Rear struts, brakes front and back, water pump small leak at 60k...replaced. I'm 73 and have owned many cars over the years...Volvos...Hondas...Chevies...Fords. The Patriot has been about the most dependable, at a bargain price.

 

I have a 2014 Purchased new. It now has 122,000 miles on it.

I had the trans temp issue twice, took it to the dealership and, they serviced the CVT and "updated" it's software. I also had to replace the right rear wheel hub. I drive 87 miles each way to work and take the patriot fishing alot. By fishing, I mean I drive the Patriot out onto the beach and park it where I am fishing. This is the reason why I had to replace the hub. The bearing got sand in it and that killed it pretty quick. Oh, and my foot rest right inside the a pillar next to the brake pedal is cracked, and I replaced a left tail light bulb. The rest was all PM stuff. Oil changes, flushed radiator, new tires, etc...

 

I've heard a rumor that all Patriots last to 75k then they spontaneously combust, leaving no signs of any former owners or passengers.

 

If so then Lil Ignatz is on his 4th life! Maybe like a cat, he's got 9 lives! I'm hoping so. :smiley_thumbs_up:

 

You have an FD1

 

Is that a question or a statement? Is it directed to me? No, mine is FWD.

 

just picked up my first pat its a 2008.. 273k km on it.. engine and tranny run fine, no rust at all.. only issue is a wheel bearing, and one rear window doesnt work. cant complain for $2k.

im the 3rd owner (not counting the lease company) am slowly doing all service just cause i dont know what was done (cvt fluid, spark plugs etc).

the way its running i feel confident i should get another 2 years out of it, driving about 50k km a year. mostly highway with some city

 

I already gave a serious reply in this thread so I feel entitled to just point out that the title of the thread should be "how many licks does it take to get to the center of a tootsie pop"

 

273k km 2008 pat.. unsure what that is for my american friends.. but still going strong.

Sent from my SM-G920W8 using Tapatalk

 

Roughly 170,000 miles. Keep on going! :smiley_thumbs_up: