Damn, thats a bummer dude. I think my alternator is on its way out also.

 

sounds like your alternator is gone if it's dying while running. you can actually run the vehicle without a battery so long as you get a jump every time. test the alternator by disconnecting the positive from the battery while it's running. if it dies, your alt is toast.

 

And it jump-started when the tow truck guy came and it ran fine. Drove over to the tires plus place and it turned off and back on fine. Checked the battery terminals and they are tight, $28 for diagnostic. Wonder if it's related to the new engine wiring harness and new computer I got... Almost wish I could get this declared a lemon and get a wrangler instead...

 

Hey rcguymike,
Sorry to hear about this experience, but glad you made it home! I’d like to look into your concerns further. Please private message me your VIN and dealership you are working with.
Thanks,

 

Also I don't have any power at my OBD2 port even with the car on. My adaptor turns on momentarily then the LED slowly fades out.

 

I'm going to pretend I didn't hear the wrangler comment. Grab a new battery and you'll be good again. Oh and buy a deep cycle agm battery if you get a new one?

 

Yup, that was the plan, something similar to what you have but maybe not quite as expensive.

After writing a whole big thing and now re reading everything... sounds like bad connection at alternator. Just check around for anything out of the ordinary

Ding ding ding, we have a winner. According to the shop the alternator is on its way out as well as the negative terminal had some corrosion that was preventing a solid reliable connection. They cleaned that and it's starting and running fine now, have an appointment at the Jeep dealer to check it all out and confirm Wednesday.

What are some good options for alternators if it's bad. The service guy said it's probably not covered under warranty as I'm at almost 48000 miles and it would only be covered under the 3 yr/36k mi. The original people that looked at it wanted $380 for a re-manufactured 115 amp alternator(the only 140 amp one they had access to was from NAPA and they suggested not getting that one) plus $140 for the install, but I think I heard of some people on here getting custom alternators for around that price or close. I'm willing to do the install myself.

Thanks guys!

 

After writing a whole big thing and now re reading everything... sounds like bad connection at alternator. Just check around for anything out of the ordinary

 

Was hoping to have this battery last until winter, which it looks like it might. Turns out one of the 3 diodes in the rectifier is shorted and one of the battery terminals had a bit of corrosion on a connection. I think the alternator is covered under warranty so I'm attempting to drive it back to Michigan. 4 more hours to go with the alternator only putting out 13.7 volts.

Still no power at the OBD2 port...?

 

Made it to near my parents so far so good, 2 more hours.

 

Why would someone not suggest getting the 140amp. If the cost is close between the 2 may as well get the bigger one. I'd like a bigger than 140a alternator but with my large battery the 140 suits me just fine

 

They said the NAPA one's quality was suspect...

 

I just replaced my alternator, and I went with a 115-amp unit (tight budget). Does the 140-amp alternator put more of a load on the engine during normal operation, or is it simply capable of turning out more amps when they're required?

 

Unless the 140 amp is simply much more efficient than the 115 I'd say due to physics that the 140 amp would probably put a bit more load on the engine. I don't know how much you'd notice though.

 

I don't think you'll notice any additional load, I haven't noticed any issues with my engine bogging when the alt is fully loaded (happens around 1400rpm ish)

 

I haven't noticed any issues due to extra load on the engine because of the alternator. It is nice having that extra 20A. For install I recommend following Todde's thread and moving the water pump to the outside of the vehicle. But sadly realized last night after 15-20mins of cranking the subs, the batteries are drained and it starts to hit the alternator.

 

It'd be handy to have a fast idle switch. Why can't Chrysler unlock our ECUs?

 

nth256, your right my mistake. I didn't think to add the link before, good call.

 

Darn no unnoticeable 2000Watt alternator...

Wait...do they rate alternators @ 12 volts or 15.x or whatever they charge at? That might be more than a couple horsepower in losses already.

 

I think you are getting carried away in how much power you lose through your alternator...........its really not noticeable, just get a K&N and regain the 6HP you've lost elsewhere =)

 

Lol... It wasn't even me who started it... I was being partially sarcastic as well. Hoping to do something better/cheaper than K&N.