Thank for the Info. I am replacing my breaks front and rear along with rotors. I live in Florida with no road salt issues I hope I don't run into the same problem. Again thanks.

 

If you can break them loose that'd be awesome. But keep in mind that if you find that even if they break loose and then can't get the top bolts out because of the brake line fitting behind it, you can simply take the entire caliper bracket loose with the caliper still attached and slip it all up and off the rotor enough to get the pads out and new on after compressing the piston. A little fiddly holding it all together with new pads installed when slipping back in place, but it was doable. Again. hopefully you can at least get the caliper bolts loosened and not let them seize for future problems. I have never seen a vehicle that required the removal of the brake line fitting to get a bolt out...just stupid, imho! good luck.

 

I think the factory manual just states to remove the lower caliper bolt and pivot the caliper up to replace the rear pads and rotor. Probably why the rear top bolt gets so stuck.

 

If and only if the top bolt will loosen. Also, from what I could tell when putting the bracket/caliper assembly back on the drivers side, after dealing with the crap on the right, there wasn't enough rotation available because the brake line was binding...I guess in perfect world it might work the way they say but as the beast gets older and tweaking the brake line like that is not a good thing either...kinda like twisting the caliper out of the way and not hanging it properly which causes other issues down the road too. In the end it'll just depend on the bolts and how clean things are and cooperative...I literally NEVER have a vehicle cooperate and it's a chore to even do the simple stuff. And I still assert that having a bolt locked in behind a brake fitting is poor design. Oh well, good luck and look forward to hearing if you had good luck with a non-corrosive environment vs. us northerners. LOL

 

I believe we should be able to remove the entire caliper by loosening the top pin bolt just enough where it can slide out to remove the brakes and caliper as one. It’s like 1/4-1/2” of threaded area on the end of the brake sliding pins. Slightly tight tolerances and intimidating to look at with the wheels off. Might not seem like it’s going to come off, but with the pin still inside the caliper, there’s just enough clearance without having to remove the brake line from the caliper. 🫡

 

I've done three sets of rear pads and two sets of rotors and haven't needed to remove the top caliper bolt yet. I just remove the lower bolt and rotate the caliper up enough to swap pads, or remove the pads, swap the rotors and install new pads. If you need to lubricate the top pin, unbolt the bracket, slide the caliper out of it, clean the bracket holes, grease everything and reassemble.