Mods, feel free to move this to the knowledge base. I wanted to create it here so I can modify the thread right away.
I recently did a "Tune up" on my patriot. I took pictures to finally create a how to because I have been seeing more and more questions about doing it on the MK.
Tools Required:
Ratchet
5/8 spark plug socket
6-8 inch extension (to reach the plug in the tube)
spark plug gapper.
T-30 Torx head bit, or driver
Optional tools (for you gurus)
conductive electric grease
anti-seize
Torque wrench (I didn't use one, but some might want to. Especially if you have never worked on cars before)
Usefull specs:
NGK specs says 10-14 Ft. lbs for these plugs.
Gap should be set to .044
OEM NGK plug# ZFR5F-11
Tools I used
![Image]()
I used the exact same plugs that came in the engine originally. NGK v-power zfr5f-11
Picture of the box
![Image]()
1. First step is to remove the engine cover. You simply pull up on each corner. There is a rubber grommet on the cover, and a plastic ball on the engine, that the cover pops off of.
The plastic ball can be seen here. (one in each corner)
![Image]()
2. Next step is to find the 4 coil packs. (right in the middle of the valve cover.)
Cylinder 1's coil can bee seen here.
![Image]()
3. Squeeze the release lever for the clip on the coil plug and pull the plug off of the coil.
Plug removed
![Image]()
4. Use the t-30 torx bit and ratche, or t-30 torx driver, to remove the hold down screw from the coil pack.
Screw removed
![Image]()
5. Remove the coil by pulling it straight up out of the tube.
coil removed
![Image]()
6. Use the ratchet with your extension, and 5/8 spark plug socket, to remove the spark plug. (It is located a few inches down in the tube)
Remember turn to the left to loosen.
Removing spark plug
![Image]()
7. Once you have the spark plug loose, lift the socket out of the tube. The spark plug will be stuck in the rubber grommet inside the socket.
If you are using a regular 5/8 deep well socket, you can use a magnet to retrieve the plug.
![Image]()
8. Time to prepare the new plug. Check the gap, it should be set to .044 right out of the box. (Thanks to ti-claude31 for getting the info from NGK)
Mine were set to .045 so I left them at that. I doubt it would make much of a difference either way.
This would also be the step were you would add anti-seize to the threads on the plug.
Checking the plug gap
![Image]()
I always compare it to the old plug as well. Make sure the threads are the same length.
Side by side
![Image]()
9. Installing the new plug. (You should put the electric grease on the inside of the coil boot at this step)
A trick that us mechanics use, to prevent cross threading the spark plug, is to use the coil pack to get the threads started. It cushions the spark plug so your not forcing it into the cylinder head.
plug in coil boot.
![Image]()
starting the plug.
![Image]()
10. Use the ratchet and socket to tighten the plug the rest of the way. (this is were you would torque it to 10-14 ft lbs)
Tighten
![Image]()
11. you can now push the coil back down on the spark plug.
Coil pushed in
![Image]()
12. Final step is to replace the torx screw, and plug the coil back in.
Be careful installing this screw as you can strip the plastic valve cover if you try to make it too tight. I'd say they should probably not be torqued to more than 5-10 ft. lbs. Basically no tighter than you would tighten a screw.
screw and plug
![Image]()
Repeat this for each cylinder, and then re-install the engine cover when you are done.
Start her up, and make sure it runs smooth. :smiley_thumbs_up:
I recently did a "Tune up" on my patriot. I took pictures to finally create a how to because I have been seeing more and more questions about doing it on the MK.
Tools Required:
Ratchet
5/8 spark plug socket
6-8 inch extension (to reach the plug in the tube)
spark plug gapper.
T-30 Torx head bit, or driver
Optional tools (for you gurus)
conductive electric grease
anti-seize
Torque wrench (I didn't use one, but some might want to. Especially if you have never worked on cars before)
Usefull specs:
NGK specs says 10-14 Ft. lbs for these plugs.
Gap should be set to .044
OEM NGK plug# ZFR5F-11
Tools I used
I used the exact same plugs that came in the engine originally. NGK v-power zfr5f-11
Picture of the box
1. First step is to remove the engine cover. You simply pull up on each corner. There is a rubber grommet on the cover, and a plastic ball on the engine, that the cover pops off of.
The plastic ball can be seen here. (one in each corner)
2. Next step is to find the 4 coil packs. (right in the middle of the valve cover.)
Cylinder 1's coil can bee seen here.
3. Squeeze the release lever for the clip on the coil plug and pull the plug off of the coil.
Plug removed
4. Use the t-30 torx bit and ratche, or t-30 torx driver, to remove the hold down screw from the coil pack.
Screw removed
5. Remove the coil by pulling it straight up out of the tube.
coil removed
6. Use the ratchet with your extension, and 5/8 spark plug socket, to remove the spark plug. (It is located a few inches down in the tube)
Remember turn to the left to loosen.
Removing spark plug
7. Once you have the spark plug loose, lift the socket out of the tube. The spark plug will be stuck in the rubber grommet inside the socket.
If you are using a regular 5/8 deep well socket, you can use a magnet to retrieve the plug.
8. Time to prepare the new plug. Check the gap, it should be set to .044 right out of the box. (Thanks to ti-claude31 for getting the info from NGK)
Mine were set to .045 so I left them at that. I doubt it would make much of a difference either way.
This would also be the step were you would add anti-seize to the threads on the plug.
Checking the plug gap
I always compare it to the old plug as well. Make sure the threads are the same length.
Side by side
9. Installing the new plug. (You should put the electric grease on the inside of the coil boot at this step)
A trick that us mechanics use, to prevent cross threading the spark plug, is to use the coil pack to get the threads started. It cushions the spark plug so your not forcing it into the cylinder head.
plug in coil boot.
starting the plug.
10. Use the ratchet and socket to tighten the plug the rest of the way. (this is were you would torque it to 10-14 ft lbs)
Tighten
11. you can now push the coil back down on the spark plug.
Coil pushed in
12. Final step is to replace the torx screw, and plug the coil back in.
Be careful installing this screw as you can strip the plastic valve cover if you try to make it too tight. I'd say they should probably not be torqued to more than 5-10 ft. lbs. Basically no tighter than you would tighten a screw.
screw and plug
Repeat this for each cylinder, and then re-install the engine cover when you are done.
Start her up, and make sure it runs smooth. :smiley_thumbs_up:
I'm definitely gonna help him get that done (he's not mechanically inclined).
