Jeep Patriot Forums banner
Cancel
Create thread New Garage Forums

Sub-Frame replacement both front and rear for a 2013 Jeep Patriot Sport 4x4

Jump to Latest
1 - 17 of 17 Posts

MBC

· Registered
Joined
·
10 Posts
Discussion starter · #1 ·
My Pat has 92,925 miles on it. I bought it from a dealer as a lease trade-in in October 2015 with 63k miles on it. The manufacture date of the vehicle was January 2013. Both my front and rear subframe are done. I have sourced what I hope are the complete parts for both sections and they come to $665. Does that seem reasonable or out of line? This includes both cross arms, nuts, bolts, bushings and trailing arms. Am I missing anything? If someone has done this replacement prior are there things that you needed that wasn't part of the complete kits?

Also, my Pat has a CVT, I seem to get a lot of hesitation recently when accelerating. I know that Chrysler did not recommend service until 120k but I intend to have it done at the same time as the subframe install. I read all the comments about the dual filters etc. Has anyone else noticed a hesitation problem? Personally don't like CVT's would rather have a geared transmission.

Does anyone have an idea of the labor hours associated with the replacement? I know my per hour labor cost and sadly I live in an expensive section of the country so my costs are not comparable with other ones I have seen in this forum.

Thanks
Max's Mom
 
#2 ·
MBC said:
Has anyone else noticed a hesitation problem?.
Click to expand...
Hesitation on acceleration can be caused by worn spark plugs. The factory style plugs are only good for about 30k miles before they need replaced, so if it hasn't had a new set in a while you might add that to the list.
 
Discussion starter · #3 ·
Sandstone said:
Hesitation on acceleration can be caused by worn spark plugs. The factory style plugs are only good for about 30k miles before they need replaced, so if it hasn't had a new set in a while you might add that to the list.
Click to expand...
Thanks, I had a major tune up done a few years ago and asked them to change the plugs. I'll check the report to make sure they did. For the simple cost of plugs I'll have them replaced again
 
#4 ·
Your parts prices seem reasonable to me. I recently had the rear subframe replaced on my 2010 Patriot. I already had the 6 control arms (donated by another forum member). My parts bill was about $320 for the subframe, 2 sway bar links, and a bushing. Labor for the whole job was just over 6 hours.

Here’s a link to the Parts and Labor section of the Operation Charm service manual for the 2013 Patriot. Drill down to the Suspension section. The subframes are called cross-members.

Parts and Labor — 2013 Jeep Patriot 4WD L4-2.4L Service Manual | Operation CHARM

Detailed repair manual for the 2013 Jeep Patriot 4WD L4-2.4L.
charm.li
 
#5 ·
MBC said:
Thanks, I had a major tune up done a few years ago and asked them to change the plugs. I'll check the report to make sure they did. For the simple cost of plugs I'll have them replaced again
Click to expand...
Ok, sounds good.

On the sub-frame / cross-members, you might consider getting the insides treated with rust proofing before they're installed.

On mine (2010) I use Fluid Film spray inside and out each year, and it's worked well to keep the rust in check.
 
#6 ·
Also - Plan on doing an alignment when the subframe job is done. My shop doesn’t do alignments, but they subcontracted it out so I didn’t have to deal with another party.
 
Discussion starter · #7 ·
Sandstone said:
Ok, sounds good.

On the sub-frame / cross-members, you might consider getting the insides treated with rust proofing before they're installed.

On mine (2010) I use Fluid Film spray inside and out each year, and it's worked well to keep the rust in check.
Click to expand...
I have a good friend that owns a chemical plating company. I am hoping to Metal-Life all the larger parts. It is overkill but I'll never have to do this again. That is why I am buying the parts myself.
 
#9 ·
Parts prices seem ok. Change the plugs and have the throttle body checked before looking at the CVT for problems, but the CVT is overdue for a fluid change. Drain and refill only, both filters replaced, NO FLUSH. However, if the fluid is changed this late, there's a possibility that you'll uncover some budding problems from waiting so long, and need a new transmission in 15,000 miles rather than 50,000 miles from all the sludge holding things in place. What you do with that information is your choice, but I would recommend keeping it in mind, and using Valvoline or Amsoil CVT fluid. Amsoil is definitely the best and a near-must in hotter climates such as Phoenix, Las Vegas, and Miami, but Valvoline is a reasonable second best and more than sufficient for milder climates such as you might find in the "rust belt".
 
Discussion starter · #10 ·
RossoRacer said:
Parts prices seem ok. Change the plugs and have the throttle body checked before looking at the CVT for problems, but the CVT is overdue for a fluid change. Drain and refill only, both filters replaced, NO FLUSH. However, if the fluid is changed this late, there's a possibility that you'll uncover some budding problems from waiting so long, and need a new transmission in 15,000 miles rather than 50,000 miles from all the sludge holding things in place. What you do with that information is your choice, but I would recommend keeping it in mind, and using Valvoline or Amsoil CVT fluid. Amsoil is definitely the best and a near-must in hotter climates such as Phoenix, Las Vegas, and Miami, but Valvoline is a reasonable second best and more than sufficient for milder climates such as you might find in the "rust belt".
Click to expand...
Throttle body has been changed twice. Will do the fluid change only and replace both filters. I am in the southern Northeast so pretty temperate. No extreme heat or cold, I could use Valvoline. Thanks đź‘Ť
 
Discussion starter · #11 ·
Irontooth said:
Your parts prices seem reasonable to me. I recently had the rear subframe replaced on my 2010 Patriot. I already had the 6 control arms (donated by another forum member). My parts bill was about $320 for the subframe, 2 sway bar links, and a bushing. Labor for the whole job was just over 6 hours.

Here’s a link to the Parts and Labor section of the Operation Charm service manual for the 2013 Patriot. Drill down to the Suspension section. The subframes are called cross-members.

Parts and Labor — 2013 Jeep Patriot 4WD L4-2.4L Service Manual | Operation CHARM

Detailed repair manual for the 2013 Jeep Patriot 4WD L4-2.4L.
charm.li
[/QU
Click to expand...
This information is amazing! Thank you very much!
 
Discussion starter · #13 ·
Update on my subframe replacement and accurate information on purchase date and mileage. I couldn't find the original paperwork when I started this thread so here it is. I bought the Jeep from a dealer on 10/28/2014 and it had 31,610 miles on it at purchase. The information I used originally was from a service done a year later at the same dealership.

So, I guess I should have gotten a second opinion before I freaked out and started buying parts. I was given the name of a repair shop in my area that specializes in Jeeps. I took it in so I could get a quote on the replacement labor and was told there was nothing wrong with my subframe just a little surface rust. The owner smacked it with a hammer and showed me it was just fine! He said my worry should be about the CVT based on the issues I was having with hesitation. :rolleyes: We are going to try and drain the fluid and replace it and change the spark plugs also, he knew enough not to flush the tranny.

Thanks everyone for all of your advice. Let me know if anyone needs a complete subframe replacement both front and rear with all the bolts and bushings needed. I will probably put this on Marketplace and see what happens.

Max's Mom
 
#14 ·
MBC said:
Update on my subframe replacement and accurate information on purchase date and mileage. I couldn't find the original paperwork when I started this thread so here it is. I bought the Jeep from a dealer on 10/28/2014 and it had 31,610 miles on it at purchase. The information I used originally was from a service done a year later at the same dealership.

So, I guess I should have gotten a second opinion before I freaked out and started buying parts. I was given the name of a repair shop in my area that specializes in Jeeps. I took it in so I could get a quote on the replacement labor and was told there was nothing wrong with my subframe just a little surface rust. The owner smacked it with a hammer and showed me it was just fine! He said my worry should be about the CVT based on the issues I was having with hesitation. :rolleyes: We are going to try and drain the fluid and replace it and change the spark plugs also, he knew enough not to flush the tranny.

Thanks everyone for all of your advice. Let me know if anyone needs a complete subframe replacement both front and rear with all the bolts and bushings needed. I will probably put this on Marketplace and see what happens.

Max's Mom
Click to expand...
Let us know how it works out.
 
#17 ·
Regular maintenance and keeping up with the minor things is very beneficial, and one does not need to over do it. I would especially keep an eye on the CVT and change the fluid/filters every 30 to 50 thousand miles. Get your Patriot professionally oil spray rust proofed or learn to DIY it. My recent Krown visit got the owner so excited that he posted mine on Facebook to show how clean/rust free my 13 year old Patriot was.

Thanks for sharing the update. Great learning value for everyone.
 
1 - 17 of 17 Posts
About this Discussion
16 Replies
5 Participants
Last post:
Treegrower
Jeep Patriot Forums
posts
678K
members
55K
Since
2006
Join our community to discuss the Jeep Patriot & Jeep Compass. Find answers to all your Jeep Patriot technical questions.
Full Forum Listing
Explore Our Forums
Jeep Patriot General Discussion Engine and Drivetrain Newbie Check-In Suspension and Tires Electrical and Audio