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MississippiPatriot

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Discussion starter · #1 ·
2014 2WD 2.0 Patriot with 196,000

So, I go in for a bit overdue oil change before heading out on a five hour trip the other day and run by my go-to non-Chrysler local dealership and get a young guy doing the change. While on the rack, he points out that I have an oil leak around the valve cover gasket. I see the leak and proceed to go by the parts place and pick up the gasket to replace it that evening, before leaving the next day.

I do the gasket install (first time replacing one) and do my best to examine for leaks. I don’t see any, and drive it fifteen or so miles to make sure. After parking, I notice the next morning that I have several drops of what looks like oil underneath, but also notice that I have a leak from a crack in the plastic housing in the radiator hose under the cap! So, I’m unsure whether the oil was excess left from the leak that has worked its way down and possibly some of the coolant which I also had leaking. I check my oil and oddly it seems a bit the top safe range line. I don’t think much of it, as my drive is not completely level. Using my usual risky decision making skills, I decide that I’m still heading on the trip and elect to simply install a new radiator hose that day before I leave. I replace the hose and verify no leaks, and I still don’t notice any leaks on the valve cover, at least on the front where I can see well. I head out on my trip. About 200 miles in, I stop for gas and check the oil with the engine probably not having much time to cool and drain down, dipstick is showing at the top line of safe. About this time, I throw a check engine code. Stop by an AutoZone and they say it is a catalytic converter code.

I make the round trip and check the oil a bit from time to time and the level stays the same, top line. Upon returning home, I am finally parked somewhere that I can see if any drips happen while parked. Sure enough, I probably have about a tablespoon or so of oil the next morning. I go by the dealership and they let me put it on the rack to get their opinion on the drip. Guy says it looks like it still has a bit of a leak around the cover where timing chain union to the block. After chatting with him, he asks if I used any silicone on the gasket at the corners of that area, which I did not. He advises taking it back off, cleaning the gasket and surface well, and then reinstalling with some silicone gasket maker at those two corner joints. That afternoon I do the reinstall very carefully. Take it for a spin and park. The next morning, I have less oil, but still maybe a few teaspoons worth under the oil pan access area of the plastic undercarriage cover. Now, I go back to the dealership and the guy there thinks it is probably just residual oil still dripping down.

Upon coming home, I check the oil again as I once again inspect the surface for signs of leaking around the cover. I use my own scanner to glance at the catalytic converter code (p0420) and clear it. The next morning, I have maybe a teaspoon of oil underneath in the same old area.

Through another code today. Get home and it’s once again the same p0420 catalytic converter code. I check the oil again, but still am at the top range of the full. Coincidentally I notice that with a chalk pen is fairly freshly written “5qt” near the air filter, but filter included my engine oil capacity is not even 4.5 quarts. So, I’m a bit slow on the uptake, but finally decide the new young guy doing the oil change overfilled me by at least half a quart. This should have been obvious, I guess, but it has never happened to me before. Sure enough my oil is still on the upper end of the safe range on the dipstick, as you can see in the pic. Since my understanding always was that if you overfill that oil has got to go somewhere. So, I’m figuring the oil was pushing out either around the valve gasket, at least after my first install and possibly around the oil pan gasket. After sitting four hours or so after today’s running, I once again have a small area of oil underneath on my concrete, pic also attached.

So, after writing this long dissertation, let me finally get to my questions:

1. Does this sound reasonable to you that perhaps my gasket install is fine, but the oil has been overfilled? Would it result in the excess oil being pushed out, so to speak? Would this damage the gaskets or stop once it equalized?

2. Are there any dangers from running the engine with .5 qt excess for this long? I assume it has to be close to getting to the right level by now.

3. Could such an overfill situation cause the p0420 code? Possibly causing the engine to “burn” the excess oil producing emission issues?

Any other input is appreciated!
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1. Does this sound reasonable to you that perhaps my gasket install is fine, but the oil has been overfilled? Would it result in the excess oil being pushed out, so to speak? Would this damage the gaskets or stop once it equalized?
Maybe the oil is residual from before? Maybe the oil is leaking from somewhere else? At 200,000 miles leaks can happen. Significant overfilling -- like 1/2 quart over -- would cause foaming, but your dipstick looks clean. If the dipstick isn't showing overfilled, then I doubt you are overfilled.
2. Are there any dangers from running the engine with .5 qt excess for this long? I assume it has to be close to getting to the right level by now.
Overfilled 1/2 quart would be too much to risk. If you're at the top of the 'safe' range, you're not overfilled. Running it at all if you were significantly overfilled would cause a problem, but a tad over (which I don't think you are) wouldn't be terrible.
3. Could such an overfill situation cause the p0420 code? Possibly causing the engine to “burn” the excess oil producing emission issues?
I think it's unrelated.

I'm no mechanic, just a Patriot owner like you. There are others on here who know more than I do. Check back and see what they might say.
 
Mine only takes 5 quarts because it has an auxiliary oil cooler. It could be that yours has some such system that increases capacity, and the quick lube guys filled it up with 4 1/2 quarts only to see it was a half quart low once they checked.
 
Regarding the p0420 code, one time overfilling the engine wouldn't kill the cat. It takes a while for that to happen, and you'd have noticed blue smoke out the tail pipe long before the cat went bad. 200k miles is pretty good for any cat, mine gave a 420 code at 140-ish k. But it was cracks in the maniverter allowing air in right at the top o2 sensor making the computer read a lean condition. This makes the computer add more fuel (in my case the long term trim was adding 14% extra fuel). I also noticed worsening fuel economy. I decided to remove and weld mine to hopefully put off the several hundred dollar part cost and so far so good. I'm approaching 160k now, fuel trims are down to 3% and the code went away. If you have access to a scan tool that can show live data and fuel trims, check those.
 
Discussion starter · #5 · (Edited)
So, I ended up discovering two things when I got ultra aggressive at trying to find the leak, while also replacing my extremely cloudy headlights. I took off the rock shield or whatever and saw quite a bit of oil there from, I assume, the original valve cover leak, but also a bit of what appeared to be coolant closer to the front area near the bumper.

Ended up tightening many of the oil pan bolts at least half a turn or more each. They seemed more loose in the area near the apparent gasket seeping. I cleaned the edges really well to hopefully tell if there was any further leaking around the pan. I tried to inspect whether there was any oil coming from the valve cover above, but did not find any.

Yet, I did end up noticing a small coolant drip near the passenger side radiator corner. Couldn’t tell where it was coming from, but assumed maybe the upper radiator hose/neck/clamp area at the top. Inspected, but found no evidence of any coolant in or around the hose/neck area of the radiator. I went ahead and just took off the whole grill and bumper to try to find the leak. Finally, I determined it was something sort of hole in or near that passenger side bottom corner of the radiator itself.

So my revised theory now is that I did indeed have a valve cover gasket significant oil leak. It coated the inner rock cover area pretty thoroughly with old oil. I also believe I could have had a very small oil drip from the oil pan gasket seepage for some time, but not really enough to even cause a consistent spot on my concrete, just adhering to the rock shield, before the valve cover leak added a nice layer of old oil on the inside of the rock shield anyway. My coolant was low when I went into get the original oil change done, which they added to my plastic coolant tank and filled to the correct level. After I replaced the valve cover gasket or when I double checked it with gasket maker at the joint and retightened, I believe no further oil was leaking from that area. However, I did have all the excess oil slowly running down that had accumulated on the inner rock shield slowly running down as sludge. I then had the occasional drop falling from the seeping oil pan gasket possibly adding to this old oil sludge to make a bit more. Then, I had this hole in the radiator that now had a fresh supply of coolant to drip onto that inner surface of the rock shield, mixing with all of this old oil and sludge before dripping on to my concrete each evening and night. The effect being a spot each morning which was made of mostly old oil, but was actually a mixture of old oil/sludge from the shield, a tiny bit of new oil from the pan gasket, and a fair bit of hot coolant flowing across all of the pool of oil/sludge on the shield. It was mostly used oil, being pushed primarily by the steady drip of coolant. Went ahead and checked my oil dipstick, and my oil was still in the upper area of the safe range. In my mind, as many days as the drip has been occurring, I would suspect to have a significantly lower oil level. I also think from what everyone has said that the P0420 exhaust code is something that is coincidental and related to a bad O2 sensor(s) and/or bad maniverter or catalytic converter.

I replaced the headlights and went ahead and picked up a new radiator from Auto Zone. I also bought a Bosch upstream O2 sensor to stick on while I’m underneath putting the shield back on, thinking that maybe I’ll get lucky and the upstream O2 is bad, causing the code. Got that stuff back here tonight and left the bumper off and everything ready for me to attack the radiator replacement tomorrow. I also plan to inspect for any evidence of dripping in any area other than the very front, where any coolant leaking should show up, as the heat shield is still off.

We will see how it all goes tomorrow! Any advice or other input on everything so far and my latest “theory” is greatly appreciated!
 
So, I ended up discovering two things when I got ultra aggressive at trying to find the leak, while also replacing my extremely cloudy headlights. I took off the rock shield or whatever and saw quite a bit of oil there from, I assume, the original valve cover leak, but also a bit of what appeared to be coolant closer to the front area near the bumper.

Ended up tightening many of the oil pan bolts at least half a turn or more each. They seemed more loose in the area near the apparent gasket seeping. I cleaned the edges really well to hopefully tell if there was any further leaking around the pan. I tried to inspect whether there was any oil coming from the valve cover above, but did not find any.

Yet, I did end up noticing a small coolant drip near the passenger side radiator corner. Couldn’t tell where it was coming from, but assumed maybe the upper radiator hose/neck/clamp area at the top. Inspected, but found no evidence of any coolant in or around the hose/neck area of the radiator. I went ahead and just took off the whole grill and bumper to try to find the leak. Finally, I determined it was something sort of hole in or near that passenger side bottom corner of the radiator itself.

So my revised theory now is that I did indeed have a valve cover gasket significant oil leak. It coated the inner rock cover area pretty thoroughly with old oil. I also believe I could have had a very small oil drip from the oil pan gasket seepage for some time, but not really enough to even cause a consistent spot on my concrete, just adhering to the rock shield, before the valve cover leak added a nice layer of old oil on the inside of the rock shield anyway. My coolant was low when I went into get the original oil change done, which they added to my plastic coolant tank and filled to the correct level. After I replaced the valve cover gasket or when I double checked it with gasket maker at the joint and retightened, I believe no further oil was leaking from that area. However, I did have all the excess oil slowly running down that had accumulated on the inner rock shield slowly running down as sludge. I then had the occasional drop falling from the seeping oil pan gasket possibly adding to this old oil sludge to make a bit more. Then, I had this hole in the radiator that now had a fresh supply of coolant to drip onto that inner surface of the rock shield, mixing with all of this old oil and sludge before dripping on to my concrete each evening and night. The effect being a spot each morning which was made of mostly old oil, but was actually a mixture of old oil/sludge from the shield, a tiny bit of new oil from the pan gasket, and a fair bit of hot coolant flowing across all of the pool of oil/sludge on the shield. It was mostly used oil, being pushed primarily by the steady drip of coolant. Went ahead and checked my oil dipstick, and my oil was still in the upper area of the safe range. In my mind, as many days as the drip has been occurring, I would suspect to have a significantly lower oil level. I also think from what everyone has said that the P0420 exhaust code is something that is coincidental and related to a bad O2 sensor(s) and/or bad maniverter or catalytic converter.

I replaced the headlights and went ahead and picked up a new radiator from Auto Zone. I also bought a Bosch upstream O2 sensor to stick on while I’m underneath putting the shield back on, thinking that maybe I’ll get lucky and the upstream O2 is bad, causing the code. Got that stuff back here tonight and left the bumper off and everything ready for me to attack the radiator replacement tomorrow. I also plan to inspect for any evidence of dripping in any area other than the very front, where any coolant leaking should show up, as the heat shield is still off.

We will see how it all goes tomorrow! Any advice or other input on everything so far and my latest “theory” is greatly appreciated!
Upstream O2 sensor unlikely to cause just the cat efficiency code (P0420).
As mentioned check fuel trims and/or live O2 sensor data to verify upstream sensor.


Cat efficiency code could be the down stream sensor but most likely the cat.
Again, live data will tell you if the sensor is working.

Upstream should be constantly switching from rich to lean as the computer adjust the fuel. Downstream should be steady around 0.7V. If it follows the upstream sensor then the cat is not working.
 
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