I have a 2014 Jeep Patriot. The check engine light came on and the diagnostic said the catalytic converter was going. I have 130K on it. Anyone else have that problem? The local Jeep dealer wants $1100 to replace it. I have seen the converter's on Rock Auto parts for $250. How hard can it be to change one?
Jeep Patriot Catalytic Converter
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Bobhunter
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I have a 2014 Jeep Patriot. The check engine light came on and the diagnostic said the catalytic converter was going. I have 130K on it. Anyone else have that problem? The local Jeep dealer wants $1100 to replace it. I have seen the converter's on Rock Auto parts for $250. How hard can it be to change one?
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I have a 2016 Patriot. Engine lights are common. NHTSA recalled a part for emissions which I changed out, then my garage tech told me to try a new gas cap because if it's loose, it will set off yr engine light. New caps from Jeep say that right on the cap. Haven't had an issue since I changed the cap. Get a second opinion if you are working with a dealer and make sure they give you the error code so you can look it up. Better yet but one of those readers for 40$ and pull up the code yourself. Make sure the garage you go to can do a smoke test to properly test your emissions. Emission and transmissions are common problems in Patriots. Hope this helps
Welcome, Dls! Thanks for the advice. One nice thing about Chrysler products and so far this has held true for FCA products in this country: if the CEL comes on and the problem that tripped it doesn't recur for three successive run cycles (cold, warm, cold x 3) the light will reset to off. This just happened on our Patriot. The CEL was on for about a week but it went out yesterday morning. Hooray!
As for honest/competent dealers there are many factors that go into making a dealership experience successful. Not every mechanic is the best and you may have a rookie or a dolt working on yours. Some dealers recommend unneeded or premature service to pad their own ledger. Some dealers don't thoroughly diagnose a problem, they just throw parts at a problem until one of them turns out to be the magic bullet. These things can happen in various combinations.
- Around 100,000 miles my 2001 Pontiac was having tranny problems. I took it to my dealer expecting a multi-thousand dollar repair/replacement. They found a simple problem and fixed it for c.$100. I put another 150,000 miles on that transmission so whatever they did was right. They could have screwed me over but they were honest. That dealer later came to a parting of the ways with GM and they switched to Jeep and I stayed with the dealer.
- Around 200,000 miles my Patriot had a troublesome electrical problem (documented elsewhere on this site) and it took multiple visits to get it diagnosed and fixed but they didn't charge me for the failed attempts. When the persistent problem wrecked my battery they replaced it; the problem continued and wrecked the replacement battery so they replaced that battery free for nothing because their failure to solve the problem was the cause of the replacement's failure. It was maybe 4 or 5 visits when they actually found the power drain and successfully repaired it. I got another 80,000 trouble-free miles out of that Patriot.
- On my old Wrangler they did a brake job and as I drove home I realized it was dragging a caliper. Even though it wasn't the wheel they worked on, they fixed it for the cost of the parts because they felt they should have checked it more thoroughly and done the work while they had it.
- While these are the problems I've had, they've done lots of other jobs with no problems at all.
Dealers are like people, in fact they are people: some are better than others.
PS, my dealer always gives me a loaner to use while it's in the shop and my local guy doesn't. As an outside sales/service rep, using their car is a big saving -- even a bit of a cash cow since I'm being paid time & travel.
PPS, Since you're from NH, the dealer I'm talking about is Bob Mariano's in Concord.
PPPS, Please drop by the Newbie threads and introduce yourself to the others on here. Please tell us more about your Patriot. Any mods? Any adventures?
PPPS, Please drop by the Newbie threads and introduce yourself to the others on here. Please tell us more about your Patriot. Any mods? Any adventures?
Odds are it's just a O2 sensor.
My light went off and on for 45,000 miles now, it affects nothing.
If your converter is truly plugged up or damaged you will know it.
The pipes will glow red with heat or you'll lose power like crazy.
On our Grand Cherokee I bought a little "spark plug non fouler" that fits the O2 sensor and pulls the sensor out of the heavy stream of gases and boom no more engine light.
But, be sure it's just the sensor acting up and not a damaged converter.
And if you're in a state that does testing it may not work for that.
We put another 110,000 miles on that Grand Cherokee after that with no issues until we sold it.
My light went off and on for 45,000 miles now, it affects nothing.
If your converter is truly plugged up or damaged you will know it.
The pipes will glow red with heat or you'll lose power like crazy.
On our Grand Cherokee I bought a little "spark plug non fouler" that fits the O2 sensor and pulls the sensor out of the heavy stream of gases and boom no more engine light.
But, be sure it's just the sensor acting up and not a damaged converter.
And if you're in a state that does testing it may not work for that.
We put another 110,000 miles on that Grand Cherokee after that with no issues until we sold it.
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2017 jeep patriot 75th adversary edition. Changed battery after 6 yrs, took for inspection and failed emissions in PA. Put over 300 miles on still failed. Got emissions tester and found out all sensors solid except o2 and catalytic converter. No lights on in dashboard and no errors stored in computer. How can I force the o2 and converter to kick off and compare input to output to store data in sensor? I thought the o2 and converter constantly run checks on input to converter and output exhaust pipe? HELP!!@!!!!!
The monitors have specific criteria to set them. Like you i also have a pa inspection coming up in a few days and need to get my o2 sensor check set. That one is a tough one and i may need to go for a drive at 3am to avoid traffic. Here's a link to the criteria. Chrysler Drive Cycle – ODB2 Readiness Monitors | Smog Check Vacaville
Well, i can confirm the o2 sensor monitor finally set. I had to head to my brother's today, about an 18 mile drive. I purposely took the long way that has a 10 mile long, 40 mph road. So after idling in my driveway for 5 minutes I set out and made sure to follow the steps. This sometimes meant slowing slightly to catch lights for periodic idling. It worked as all monitors are now set for my inspection.
I've always used aftermarket and never had any issues. OEM is FAR too expensive to even consider it in my opinion. Just make sure it is a reputable aftermarket company like walker, eastern, etc. I look on rockauto to see the brands that are generally good/reliable for use, then search the web for the best price using the brand name and part number (though I almost always wind up back at rockauto as they had the best price).
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