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Robobarnes

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2010 Limited 2.4L
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9 Posts
Discussion starter · #1 ·
I was driving down the interstate going about 80 mph when I noticed my rpm needle went kinda wacky. Right after that my patriot began slowing down and accelerating did nothing. I pulled over and restarted my car and was able to make it home. Check engine light came on. For a split second my oil light came on after I got home but I haven’t seen that light come back on since then after many startups. I used a code reader and it said p0301 initially. I changed plugs and coil. At some point after that I started to get a random cylinder misfire. I also changed crankshaft sensor after getting a code for that. It starts up totally normal but check engine light comes on and will flash sometimes. At one point the check engine light went off but came back on when I tried to drive up an incline AND then it started to idle very rough and had no accelerating.
I’m wondering what may be causing these misfire? My serpentine belt is relatively new. My patriot (2010 2.4L) has 100k miles on it. I got an oil change four days prior to this happening. Also, my battery check light has been coming on every once in a while for the past month or so.
I think that’s all the relevant info I can think of. Thanks in advance for an tips or advice!! I did do a Vaccum test and everything seemed normal on that end.
 
Just throwing out a couple of ideas.

Perhaps it's a loose/bad connection between the alternator and the battery?

Also, how old is the battery?Has it ever been tested?

If possible, get a scanner that can record live data and leave it connected until the problem occurs, then you can hopefully see what dropped out.
 
If you hadn't been able to get it moving again, I'd say it might be the CVT(assuming you don't have the 5-speed stick), but since it's apparently working again, I don't see how that would be terribly likely. Wouldn't hurt to check though I suppose.
 
If you hadn't been able to get it moving again, I'd say it might be the CVT(assuming you don't have the 5-speed stick), but since it's apparently working again, I don't see how that would be terribly likely. Wouldn't hurt to check though I suppose.
Could be the CVT. No one on forum believes me, but my CVT was slipping for a while. I was ignorant to it. Sometimes I’d be at a light and then it wouldn’t shift gears. I’d put it in park, then it off, turn it on, shift back to drive, etc etc and it would drive. Then I wouldn’t have a problem again for thousands of miles.
 
Robo, I’ve had those same symptoms and ended up with a new transmission. Sometimes I fixed the check engine light via the gas cap (or so I thought). Battery light issue as well. Take it to dealer now and bite the bullet. Pay their little $150 or whatever to find the problem now.
 
I was driving down the interstate going about 80 mph when I noticed my rpm needle went kinda wacky. Right after that my patriot began slowing down and accelerating did nothing. I pulled over and restarted my car and was able to make it home. Check engine light came on. For a split second my oil light came on after I got home but I haven’t seen that light come back on since then after many startups. I used a code reader and it said p0301 initially. I changed plugs and coil. At some point after that I started to get a random cylinder misfire. I also changed crankshaft sensor after getting a code for that. It starts up totally normal but check engine light comes on and will flash sometimes. At one point the check engine light went off but came back on when I tried to drive up an incline AND then it started to idle very rough and had no accelerating.
I’m wondering what may be causing these misfire? My serpentine belt is relatively new. My patriot (2010 2.4L) has 100k miles on it. I got an oil change four days prior to this happening. Also, my battery check light has been coming on every once in a while for the past month or so.
I think that’s all the relevant info I can think of. Thanks in advance for an tips or advice!! I did do a Vaccum test and everything seemed normal on that end.
I had simular issues turned out had a small hole in a vacuum line piece of duct tape fixed it after I spent 200 bucks trying other things
 
Could be the CVT. No one on forum believes me, but my CVT was slipping for a while. I was ignorant to it. Sometimes I’d be at a light and then it wouldn’t shift gears. I’d put it in park, then it off, turn it on, shift back to drive, etc etc and it would drive. Then I wouldn’t have a problem again for thousands of miles.

i totally believe you .
mine had been intermittently been dying on an off while driving for what seemed to only happen after getting gas. Then it seemed to happen without pattern and now it’s gotten to the point that sitting at a red light for too long will kill the engine power (battery electronics are still on) at on point a few weeks ago it threw a code finally for the transmission range sensor, so that was recently replaced, cel went away but I feel the man who did the replacement didn’t adjust it correctly. The problem was losing power to the engine, battery is fine, but while driving the vehicles rpms will go down to zero, while driving, aometimea while being at a stop light for a prolonged period of time. Finding neutral from Reverse is difficult. But shifting up from drive into neutral is fine. I have the crankshaft and camshaft senors In. The back of the Jeep that should be replaced to see if that also will help contribute to solving this problem. So, Adjustment, cam/crankshaft replacement services and maybe advice on if a transmission solenoid maybe be a cause? The engine power loss and eventual loss of the power steering accompanied with the traction control light seems to happen when the auto cvt trans is shifting into different gears?

sorry if that’s a ramble, saving time I copied and pasted what I was telling mechanics to get a quote haha
 
i totally believe you .
mine had been intermittently been dying on an off while driving for what seemed to only happen after getting gas. Then it seemed to happen without pattern and now it’s gotten to the point that sitting at a red light for too long will kill the engine power (battery electronics are still on) at on point a few weeks ago it threw a code finally for the transmission range sensor, so that was recently replaced, cel went away but I feel the man who did the replacement didn’t adjust it correctly. The problem was losing power to the engine, battery is fine, but while driving the vehicles rpms will go down to zero, while driving, aometimea while being at a stop light for a prolonged period of time. Finding neutral from Reverse is difficult. But shifting up from drive into neutral is fine. I have the crankshaft and camshaft senors In. The back of the Jeep that should be replaced to see if that also will help contribute to solving this problem. So, Adjustment, cam/crankshaft replacement services and maybe advice on if a transmission solenoid maybe be a cause? The engine power loss and eventual loss of the power steering accompanied with the traction control light seems to happen when the auto cvt trans is shifting into different gears?

sorry if that’s a ramble, saving time I copied and pasted what I was telling mechanics to get a quote haha
Talk to text sorry haha
 
Discussion starter · #10 ·
If anyone is looking at this post, I took it to my guy (who is awesome), and they had it for a couple days. Couldn’t find anything wrong. He reset the codes or something like that and it never had a problem after that. All he charged me was like $150 for some labor but he basically tested it for three days and ran all the diagnostics he/they could.
 
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