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raymond338

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Discussion starter · #1 ·
I just wanted to take a minute and comment on our most recent issue with our 2007 Jeep Patriot 5 spd 4wd.
Our transmission has had a whine for our entire ownership (bought at 125k miles, now has 175k miles).
But a few weeks ago, I got into the jeep and cranked it up and there was a definite bearing noise.
The noise was when the clutch was released. In neutral, foot off the clutch, bearing noise. In first gear, foot off the clutch, bearing noise.

When the clutch pedal was depressed, the noise went away.

(so when transmission was disconnected, there was no noise. when foot released clutch, and transmission was connected to engine, even in neutral, there was a noise)

this indicated to me that was the rear input shaft bearing. from reading posts on this site, it seemed I could change these bearings without removing the tranny.

which was good. cuz i have pulled this tranny twice. once to change the slave cylinder (and did entire clutch while i had it out) and once to change the o-rings between the transfer case and transmission because they started leaking (should have changed them when i did the clutch, i guess).

i removed the drivers wheel to expose the tranny. the small plate covers the input shaft bearings, rear. a couple of the bolts are difficult to get out because the inner fender metal is inthe way, but it does come out.

the difficult part was deciding how to pull the bearings. i rented pilot bearing removal tools from autozone and advance, but neither of them fit inside these bearings.

so i took advice from someone on this forum, and made my own pullers. i destroyed the plastic part of the bearing, and the metal ball bearing retainer. this allowed me to move the balls around and make room for my home-made puller

i took a standard hex bolt and ground the head down in one direction so that it would fit inside the bearing. then i ground it down in the other direction so that i could insert it into the bearing and then turn it 90 degrees to "lock it into place". i made two so that i could put one on each side of the bearing.

the first one fit snug. the second one was a little loose. then i found a small piece of steel (actually part of a window regulator from an old car i had laying around). I drilled three holes in it. one on each side for my two ground down bolts and one hole in the middle for a slide hammer.

so i put the ground down bolt heads into the first bearing, and turned it 90 degrees to lock it into place. then i put the second one in on the opposite side of the bearing. the threaded end was sticking out. i slid the steel piece over these two bolts, and threaded it on with two nuts (one on each bolt). then i threaded the slide hammer on. a few pulls on the slide hammer and the bearing popped out.

the second bearing was more difficult to remove (the one on the right, or the one towards the rear of the car). once it was out, that shaft was very loose, hanging free. so i thought maybe that bearing held more load.

both bearings were destroyed in the process of removing them this way. so i was unable to see if they made noise or seemed worn out. in fact, i doubted that they were the problem because they looked fine.

the two new bearings were easy to install. i used a large socket and a ball peen hammer. i dipped them in tranny fluid as a lube and they tapped right in. super easy. i re-installed the cover plate with some sealant. it took all of my restraint to wait 24 hours for the RTV to dry before refilling the tranny..

the next day i topped off the tranny fluid, put the drivers tire back on, and test drove the jeep.
to my surprise, the noise was gone. i really thought the tranny was crap this time and would need rebuilt, but apparently not. so its back to its old self. shifts fine, no noise in neutral. still whines in gear at speed.

so the input shaft bearings can be done with the tranny in the jeep (at least on my 4x4 manual tranny 2007 patriot). the two bearings are the same part number. i paid about 70 bucks a piece for them, shipped. that and a tube of RTV (black silicone, oil proof) and the job was done.

i used a battery powered angle grinder to grind down the bolt heads. i got lucky and had a couple of bolts and matching nuts in my shed, and an old window regulator to use to connect them. the slide hammer came from autozone, along with a pilot bearing puller attachment that didn't fit. but the slide hammer worked with my home-made bolt puller.

sorry i don't have pictures. the other fellow took some pictures of the bolts he ground down, and i copied that idea (search this forum). i am posting my success because i found mixed results when i searched. i figured one more positive result might encourage someone to try this. i spent more time waiting on parts than actually working on the jeep. it worked out surprisingly well.

$140 and a tube of RTV ($7?) is pretty cheap to have the jeep back on the road again. i really would like to replace it with a newer and lower mileage car, but the wife loves her mini SUV that is a stick shift. its so hard to find manual tranny vehicles in the second hand market, and we are trying to avoid a new car purchase at the moment.

i also learned through this repair research that the patriot tranny was adapted from the dodge neon? well, that would explain the fact that all of my complaints about our Patriot are tranny related. :)

good luck out there. you can do it!
 
I just wanted to take a minute and comment on our most recent issue with our 2007 Jeep Patriot 5 spd 4wd.
Our transmission has had a whine for our entire ownership (bought at 125k miles, now has 175k miles).
But a few weeks ago, I got into the jeep and cranked it up and there was a definite bearing noise.
The noise was when the clutch was released. In neutral, foot off the clutch, bearing noise. In first gear, foot off the clutch, bearing noise.

When the clutch pedal was depressed, the noise went away.

(so when transmission was disconnected, there was no noise. when foot released clutch, and transmission was connected to engine, even in neutral, there was a noise)

this indicated to me that was the rear input shaft bearing. from reading posts on this site, it seemed I could change these bearings without removing the tranny.

which was good. cuz i have pulled this tranny twice. once to change the slave cylinder (and did entire clutch while i had it out) and once to change the o-rings between the transfer case and transmission because they started leaking (should have changed them when i did the clutch, i guess).

i removed the drivers wheel to expose the tranny. the small plate covers the input shaft bearings, rear. a couple of the bolts are difficult to get out because the inner fender metal is inthe way, but it does come out.

the difficult part was deciding how to pull the bearings. i rented pilot bearing removal tools from autozone and advance, but neither of them fit inside these bearings.

so i took advice from someone on this forum, and made my own pullers. i destroyed the plastic part of the bearing, and the metal ball bearing retainer. this allowed me to move the balls around and make room for my home-made puller

i took a standard hex bolt and ground the head down in one direction so that it would fit inside the bearing. then i ground it down in the other direction so that i could insert it into the bearing and then turn it 90 degrees to "lock it into place". i made two so that i could put one on each side of the bearing.

the first one fit snug. the second one was a little loose. then i found a small piece of steel (actually part of a window regulator from an old car i had laying around). I drilled three holes in it. one on each side for my two ground down bolts and one hole in the middle for a slide hammer.

so i put the ground down bolt heads into the first bearing, and turned it 90 degrees to lock it into place. then i put the second one in on the opposite side of the bearing. the threaded end was sticking out. i slid the steel piece over these two bolts, and threaded it on with two nuts (one on each bolt). then i threaded the slide hammer on. a few pulls on the slide hammer and the bearing popped out.

the second bearing was more difficult to remove (the one on the right, or the one towards the rear of the car). once it was out, that shaft was very loose, hanging free. so i thought maybe that bearing held more load.

both bearings were destroyed in the process of removing them this way. so i was unable to see if they made noise or seemed worn out. in fact, i doubted that they were the problem because they looked fine.

the two new bearings were easy to install. i used a large socket and a ball peen hammer. i dipped them in tranny fluid as a lube and they tapped right in. super easy. i re-installed the cover plate with some sealant. it took all of my restraint to wait 24 hours for the RTV to dry before refilling the tranny..

the next day i topped off the tranny fluid, put the drivers tire back on, and test drove the jeep.
to my surprise, the noise was gone. i really thought the tranny was crap this time and would need rebuilt, but apparently not. so its back to its old self. shifts fine, no noise in neutral. still whines in gear at speed.

so the input shaft bearings can be done with the tranny in the jeep (at least on my 4x4 manual tranny 2007 patriot). the two bearings are the same part number. i paid about 70 bucks a piece for them, shipped. that and a tube of RTV (black silicone, oil proof) and the job was done.

i used a battery powered angle grinder to grind down the bolt heads. i got lucky and had a couple of bolts and matching nuts in my shed, and an old window regulator to use to connect them. the slide hammer came from autozone, along with a pilot bearing puller attachment that didn't fit. but the slide hammer worked with my home-made bolt puller.

sorry i don't have pictures. the other fellow took some pictures of the bolts he ground down, and i copied that idea (search this forum). i am posting my success because i found mixed results when i searched. i figured one more positive result might encourage someone to try this. i spent more time waiting on parts than actually working on the jeep. it worked out surprisingly well.

$140 and a tube of RTV ($7?) is pretty cheap to have the jeep back on the road again. i really would like to replace it with a newer and lower mileage car, but the wife loves her mini SUV that is a stick shift. its so hard to find manual tranny vehicles in the second hand market, and we are trying to avoid a new car purchase at the moment.

i also learned through this repair research that the patriot tranny was adapted from the dodge neon? well, that would explain the fact that all of my complaints about our Patriot are tranny related. :)

good luck out there. you can do it!
 
New to forum. I am trying to decide to Ditch or Save my Jeep Patriot. The most serious pressing issue that I have today is the shifting. Last night during the ride home 1 mile trip, I lost 1st, 3rd, and 5th gear. Clutch went in and grind when attempting a gear. I backed off right away and got home on 2nd and 4th. Back on Friday I had picked up my Jeep from the mechanic that had just done the rear input shaft bearings. I had the same noise that you had. And on my way home from the mechanic, a 23 mile ride I was very pleased with the shifting, the noise was gone, it wasn't slipping out of 5th gear. There was one little gear crunch going into 3rd on the way home from the mechanic but that was on one shift only and I thought it was me.

Prior to doing the input bearings I had the noise you refer to strong. I drove it for about 1000 miles that way. We were on a trip and thought we would make it home. We also thought we would be ditching (selling or scrapping) the vehicle soon. It has 170,XXX miles on it. Biggest issue is this tranny and shifting problem so if I get past this we may save the Patriot. I think it needs new struts, and, some electrical work to get ABS brake light to stop staying on and in service.

Other history on shifting problem: The bearings were also done by the same mechanic back at about 120,000 miles. It did get some Tranny work at around 125,000 at shop and I am trying to get details on that today. In the past my son, one of the previous owners, had issues with it slipping out of 5th gear. Recently (prior to the bearing change) this slipping out of 5th gear had gotten more frequent.

Just before this recent bearing change we also had a short time that the tranny wouldnt go into First. This not-going into 1st started after son tried to push start the jeep trying 2nd gear then again trying 1st (not good). However the not going into 1st gear was only present for a day or two of driving. (Remember bearings still not replaced.)

Back to the present: When it started going into 1st again and only popping out of 5th I decided not to ditch and invested in the change of the input bearings. After the change of input bearings the clutch-out noise was gone and it wasn't slipping out of 5th and I had a couple of days of smiles and making plans to keep the Jeep! I planned to drive it a couple a thousand miles and if it stayed nice I would go after other issues and save this vehicle.

Then after just about 30 miles of good shifting now it won't go into 1st 3rd or 5th and I want to know why so I can decide to fix it. If it has a simple solution I save. If it has a complicated or expensive solution I ditch.

Thank you and any other Jeep owners or fixers for your pointers and ideas on this problem. Ditch? or Save?

don
 
Discussion starter · #5 ·
I would inspect the linkage cables. There are two; I don't remember which does what. We once had a problem getting into reverse and found one of the cables had popped out of its retainer. the cables are under the airbox i believe.

Other than that, I don't know. I always thought "popping out of gear" had to do with internal components such as synchronizers going bad. I've never rebuilt a manual transmission so don't have any personal insight into how they work. the input shaft bearing noise that I experienced was not accompanied by any other shifting issues. but i figured changing them out would lengthen the life of the tranny, and i believed i could do the job myself for not much money.

As far as ditch or keep, that has more to do with how much you value the car, your personal financial situation, and your mechanical ability. I kept repairing ours.

during our ownership we had ABS sensors go bad, one at a time. pretty easy to change out, cost about 40 bucks a piece. we didn't care about ABS, but when the ABS light came on, the cruise control didn't work, which was a deal breaker. I have a cheap code reader ($100 from harbor freight) that could tell me which one was bad.
 
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