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This is an email from Glenn, their engineer on hand.

"Not sure why they're not coming to us with these issues. The only problems we hear about are pretty much alignment related. And that is normally solved by us telling the customer to make sure and let the alignment shop knows the control arms are adjustable... since the factory ones are not and if the shop doesn't know this, they'll assume nothing can be done.

CV joints, we have no records of this being an issue.

Something about our lifts... MOPAR used them on their own fleet of demo and display Jeeps. They actually contacted us to offer the kit as a dealer installed option, with the possibility of it being a factory installed option. We could not meet their production demands though and so it didn't work out. But the point is... Jeep engineers did a very thorough review and approval of the kits, dissected them basically. Ran them on their own fleet. Installed properly, there were no issues or problems detected by their engineers.

We're always happy to try and help troubleshoot issues with our customers, which is the cornerstone of customer service. Not sure why people would go online to an anonymous forum group looking for answers over coming to us though. We're confused by that.

But no CV issues have come up. And shimmies or anything else alignment related are pretty easy once the alignment shop has been notified of the adjustable control arms which replaced the stock ones.

We appreciate your inquiry though and if anyone ever has any questions on our kits, please refer them directly to us (email is best since I'm the chief engineer here and only available by email, I don't even keep a phone in my office) to help out.
Thanks!
Glenn Wakefield"
I did call you guys. My wife called you guys because I had to throw in the towel and get back to my job. You were very very rude to her. You would not talk to the service manager at my dealership. This form is not to get help it is to provide information.
 
Update from my end.

I removed all trace of the RRO kit on my Patriot last year. Along with quite a few factory parts. The spacers were fine and were in good condition when I sold them for cheap, with sway bar bracket also. But the adjustable arms were seized. Twice I had taken the arms out to adjust later on towards the end and was successful in adjusting them but not enough each time. The third time nothing would budge. The bushings looked in good condition for being 1.5yrs old but had gotten soft and ovalled the center of it.

After seeing pictures of bushings from more current batches I figured I probly had the best of the bunch at that time so it was time to find something else to replace rro.

I figured I had premature spring sag due to the angles of everything so STU's were an obvious switch out. Never any axle issues but alignment after that 30k Kilometer mark was impossible.

I had tried the STU + RRO when switching and nothing bolts back together properly, even if it did axles would get chewed up in a matter of a couple miles, so much tension would be on the springs cuz the arms will only move so far you will effectively not have a suspension and be a block on wheels. Which would cause everything like control arms, wheel bearings, ball joints to wear stupidly fast since no suspension to help soak up the big pot holes.

So end review save your money, don't buy rro.
 
Rocky Road Lift Kit

Hey guys, I installed the RRO lift kit a couple of weeks ago. 2016 Patriot Sport / North 5 speed AWD. The front installed without issue. Where I did have problems was the rear. There isn't a chance in hell this can be done without dropping the lower control arm. Once I figured that out, it took about an hour per side. If you don't want to struggle, follow these directions. I am 63 years old, 5 foot nothing, and have 2 bad arms, I did this by myself.

Unbolt the sway bar. Remove the lower shock bolt. Place your floor jack under the shock. Unbolt the outer edge of the lower control arm before you start anything else. Remove the 3 nuts on top of the strut, then lower the strut assembly with the floor jack. At this point it is easy to push the lower arm down so the strut comes out without issue. Replace the upper control arm, and use lots of anti-seize inside the bore, on the threads etc. so you will not have the future seizure problems. Attach the RRO spacer with the bump facing out, insert the strut through the lower arm shock hole, press the lower arm down and the strut will swing into place effortlessly. Use the floor jack to gently lift the strut into place, re-install the strut mount bolts. AT THIS TIME, re-attach the lower arm. You can then lift the bottom of the shock with the floor jack, and get the bottom bolt in with very little effort. Re-attach the sway bar, and you are done.

This was all figured out after hours struggling to get the first strut out. My reference to installing the RRO spacer with the bump facing out was discovered when I installed the second side, then had to remove the first one to rotate the spacer 180 degrees. For some reason, I always do things the wrong way first.

The only issue I currently have is getting the alignment right. Nobody I can find has done the alignment on a lifted Patriot, so they are guessing the settings. If anyone has a print out of their alignment specs, please send it to me. Thanks in advance, Barry
 
Current issues

It is at the garage for the second time in a week. I am experiencing the following on my 2016 Patriot. Tires installed were 245/65/17. Wheel spacers were also installed.

1. Noise from rear passenger tire that occurs each time turning at slower rates; Sounds really bad at slower rate of speed going over bump.

2. Rear Tires are currently installed at an angle.

3. Car vibrates when reaching higher rates of speed.

4. Front tires rubbing when turning.

5. When making sharp turn the tires feel like they are skipping across the pavement.

Any advice before I consider a return of the kit and eat the labor?
 
It is at the garage for the second time in a week. I am experiencing the following on my 2016 Patriot. Tires installed were 245/65/17. Wheel spacers were also installed.

1. Noise from rear passenger tire that occurs each time turning at slower rates; Sounds really bad at slower rate of speed going over bump.

2. Rear Tires are currently installed at an angle.

3. Car vibrates when reaching higher rates of speed.

4. Front tires rubbing when turning.

5. When making sharp turn the tires feel like they are skipping across the pavement.

Any advice before I consider a return of the kit and eat the labor?
1. Bad rear wheel bearing/hub?

2. Rear camber needs adjusted?

3. Alignment?

4. Smaller tires

5. See #4
 
The reason I got the lift kit was to have larger tires. What size would you suggest?

Tonight I picked it up and it drives even worse with the steering wheel almost vibrating out of my hands over 50mph.

The grinding noise is still there also in the rear passenger side when turning into bumps.

Frustrated.....
 
The reason I got the lift kit was to have larger tires. What size would you suggest?

Tonight I picked it up and it drives even worse with the steering wheel almost vibrating out of my hands over 50mph.

The grinding noise is still there also in the rear passenger side when turning into bumps.

Frustrated.....
The thing with spacer lifts on these suspensions is that when you add them it moves the control arm down, but it travels in an arc, not just straight down, like a solid axle. This means the track narrows and puts the wheel closer to the chassis.

Most do what you did and add wheel spacers or use rims with a lower offset. Tyler was able to get that size tire to work, but it was close and the pinch weld mod was required: http://www.jeeppatriot.com/forum/16...6-suspension-tires/277402-8-different-wheel-tire-combinations-mks-reviewed.html

Did you do the pinch weld mod? Is it rubbing on the pinch weld?

From what I remember, some with RRO have vibration at take off, and while turning a corner.

The shaking at 50 MPH almost sounds like tires/rims. You could try rotating front to back and see if it changes.

And I would definitely get the grinding noise checked out. ASAP.
You could try raising the rear wheels off the ground and try rotating them by hand to see if you can hear where the grinding is coming from.
 
Vibration on acceleration

So I bought a 2016 patriot has the 4x4 but isn't the freedom driveII. I got it for work up in the mountains, I am a geologist so I am in the hills a lot. Well the stock tires blew out on the rocky roads and so my boss bought me some beefier tires. I wasn't there to say what tires I wanted but the guy from big-o insisted that 245/70R17 tires would fit my patriot. Long story short, it looked awesome but didn't fit great. So I thought maybe I will get a lift to make it a little better. So I went to a shop who recommended the RRO lift. So I order it have it installed professionally and take it for a test drive. It shakes like mad on acceleration and turning, the shop calls RRO who says we have never heard of this happening before. Maybe you didn't push the cv's all the way back into the transmission. So the shop tries messing around with it to no avail. I decide, I'll just not accelerate fast. 500 miles down the road I've got problems with the driver side cv axle. I personally replace it. Then have a shop do the alignment. 400 miles later, same cv axle gone. I Stop and start to think, this angle is to intense. How can I fix this? So I took some spacers and lowered my motor mounts about 3/4" so in turn the transmission is a little lower. At the same time, I change the cv axle and now 3000 miles later I still have good cv axles, no more vibration on accelerate and turn. I am a happy camper.

So yeah I like this lift. It does have issues and RRO hasn't admitted to it, shame on them, but after a little trouble shooting I am happy with how it helps my jeep perform off road.
 
It's a real shame that RRO doesn't admit the lacking of their kit and not supply a better solution/kit for their lift. I would have purchased it, but instead went with Performex. Other people would've also purchased the RRO if they had a reliable kit.

So I bought a 2016 patriot has the 4x4 but isn't the freedom driveII. I got it for work up in the mountains, I am a geologist so I am in the hills a lot. Well the stock tires blew out on the rocky roads and so my boss bought me some beefier tires. I wasn't there to say what tires I wanted but the guy from big-o insisted that 245/70R17 tires would fit my patriot. Long story short, it looked awesome but didn't fit great. So I thought maybe I will get a lift to make it a little better. So I went to a shop who recommended the RRO lift. So I order it have it installed professionally and take it for a test drive. It shakes like mad on acceleration and turning, the shop calls RRO who says we have never heard of this happening before. Maybe you didn't push the cv's all the way back into the transmission. So the shop tries messing around with it to no avail. I decide, I'll just not accelerate fast. 500 miles down the road I've got problems with the driver side cv axle. I personally replace it. Then have a shop do the alignment. 400 miles later, same cv axle gone. I Stop and start to think, this angle is to intense. How can I fix this? So I took some spacers and lowered my motor mounts about 3/4" so in turn the transmission is a little lower. At the same time, I change the cv axle and now 3000 miles later I still have good cv axles, no more vibration on accelerate and turn. I am a happy camper.

So yeah I like this lift. It does have issues and RRO hasn't admitted to it, shame on them, but after a little trouble shooting I am happy with how it helps my jeep perform off road.
 
I'm considering a Daystar 1.5" lift for my 2016 High Altitude 2.5L Patriot. Its a suspension spacer lift kit for well under $200, actually its $159.99. If anyone has any experience with this kit I'd greatly appreciate their input on it. Thanks in advance.
 
It's a real shame that RRO doesn't admit the lacking of their kit and not supply a better solution/kit for their lift. I would have purchased it, but instead went with Performex. Other people would've also purchased the RRO if they had a reliable kit.
I will eventually lower the trans to alleviate the cv angle.
 
Hey guys. I had a buddy of mine try to assist me. He works at a mechanic shop with a spring compressor. I have 4 new monroe struts all around with new strut hardware. He said the springs are too long. The ones I got from STU are the HD black springs. They only make one kind now. I plan to go with a different setup.

@ Sandstone I apologize for posting this here please forgive me. Can someone purchase these springs off me? I’ll pay for shipping. Just give me 400 is that fair?
 
Why are springs not fitting ? I have a set on my patriot. I believe you my be the first with stu coils that don't fit. Don't remember anyone else having this issue. But then again ?
I am interested in this as well. I remember something about the diameter of the monroe struts possibly being an issue with the STU coils, but not the overall length.
 
I am interested in this as well. I remember something about the diameter of the monroe struts possibly being an issue with the STU coils, but not the overall length.
Hey major deal, and Earthworm51. I didn’t think I would have the issue I ran into either. The front coil even when compressed is too long for the monroe strut. I had purchased all new strut/shock hardware to make the installation even easier. The strut mount couldn’t be tightened because the threads were not going through the mount. To me it seems I would need shock extensions, but after doing research I didn’t think I would need those. A regular shock would of been fine. Two I looked at were KYB or Monroe. I didn’t want to go crazy with this operation. As for the product itself. They are all black I'm thinking they are the HD coils. Trust that I am disappointed, I really wanted this to work. After all this back, and forth I think I’m just going to get moog springs so I can use my new monroe setup. I was still able to equip the bigger tires anyway.
 
The front coil even when compressed is too long for the monroe strut....
According to Monroe's specs, the front strut that fits the 2015 has over 2" less travel than the front strut that fits my 2010. There are other differences as well.

2010 specs:
90854



2015 specs:
90853
 
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