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Lol, traditional wisdom for any automobile says change the oil every 3k miles. But, if you successfully switch to full synthetic, it's possible to make it last as much as 15k between oil changes according to a few folks I know. Oil change is quick and cheap anyways.

As for spark plugs, the Patriot comes with NGK coppers that are good for 30k miles. Again, basic, but if you keep them fresh, the engine lasts a long time. I personally run Champion double-platinum plugs, so I don't need to change until maybe 50k miles.

CVT fluid doesn't really need changed until 50k-60k, but there's one or two people who do it at 30k just to be safe. It can be a little finnicky.

And yes, I seriously believe basic is better, especially with Jeeps. Cushy is a Cadillac/Buick thing, not Jeepy.
 
Discussion starter · #22 ·
Lol, traditional wisdom for any automobile says change the oil every 3k miles. But, if you successfully switch to full synthetic, it's possible to make it last as much as 15k between oil changes according to a few folks I know. Oil change is quick and cheap anyways.

As for spark plugs, the Patriot comes with NGK coppers that are good for 30k miles. Again, basic, but if you keep them fresh, the engine lasts a long time. I personally run Champion double-platinum plugs, so I don't need to change until maybe 50k miles.

CVT fluid doesn't really need changed until 50k-60k, but there's one or two people who do it at 30k just to be safe. It can be a little finnicky.
Picked up a brand new boxed oil cooler kit for $50, since the radiator fluid been in there for 6 years (max is 5) and I'm doing the oil change, id rather do the CVT fluid also and change them out with fresh synthetics. Its that time of year where we will be seeing 100 degree weather fro the next 4 months. Rather know I changed the fluids out
 
Radiator is it's own thing as I recall, but I believe the AC condenser also helps cool the CVT fluid. Might wanna triple check and make sure you don't mix those lines up.

Hope these links help for fluid, it's the best recommendations I know.
https://www.amazon.com/Valvoline-5W...6/ref=sr_1_6?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1510936635&sr=1-6&keywords=valvoline+5w20
https://www.amazon.com/Valvoline-Co...d=1510936595&sr=1-1&keywords=valvoline+continuously+variable+transmission+fluid
https://www.amsoil.com/shop/by-product/transmission-fluid/automatic/synthetic-cvt-fluid/
 
Discussion starter · #24 ·
Radiator is it's own thing as I recall, but I believe the AC condenser also helps cool the CVT fluid. Might wanna triple check and make sure you don't mix those lines up.

Hope these links help for fluid, it's the best recommendations I know.
https://www.amazon.com/Valvoline-5W...6/ref=sr_1_6?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1510936635&sr=1-6&keywords=valvoline+5w20
https://www.amazon.com/Valvoline-Co...d=1510936595&sr=1-1&keywords=valvoline+continuously+variable+transmission+fluid
https://www.amsoil.com/shop/by-product/transmission-fluid/automatic/synthetic-cvt-fluid/
Doing this

Air Filter https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00G3Z100U/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&psc=1

Cabin Filter https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00CT2Z9SU/ref=ox_sc_act_title_2?smid=A2Q1LRYTXHYQ2K&psc=1

Oil Filter https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001NZ1ZDW/ref=ox_sc_act_title_3?smid=A22QYUZ5ZTNSQD&psc=1

Oil https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00TS9ZWAW/ref=ox_sc_act_title_4?smid=A2Q1LRYTXHYQ2K&psc=1

Tranny Filter https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0049EFQJ8/ref=ox_sc_act_title_5?smid=A2Q93MABOHRVLF&psc=1

Tranny Pan https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00Z7NXLPQ/ref=ox_sc_act_title_6?smid=A1IT6AFCVOJU9A&psc=1

Tranny Fluid https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00DJ4FGIK/ref=ox_sc_act_title_7?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&psc=1

Plugs https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01C7TVRRG/ref=ox_sc_act_title_8?smid=AXSJFZ99K0BYO&psc=1

So it was right that the tranny doesn't have a dipstick? Id also like to replace the front motor mount bracket since the dealer said it was bent, wondering how hard that would be?
 
Doing this
(stuff)
Hey bud! Just a quick tip, but most of your list is cheaper at the autoparts store.

That "Mopar" oil filter is mid-grade Fram with a pentastar sticker*. For $7 you can grab a Wix of the shelf, no 2-day delivery.

The plugs it came with a USA made NGKs (ZFR5F-11, or just 2262) and they're pre-gapped so you don't have to do nothin but screw em in. Oh yeah, $2.50 each, so $10 a set.

The trans pan is $26 at rockauto, only $30-something at the parts store.

That Mopar trans filter? It's cleanable so you only need a new one if the screen is torn (and if it is it'll blow my mind) Also, it's $10 for a trans pan gasket or $14 for a trans pan gasket and screen.

The trans filter you need is KF403 and about $9 at the parts store. If they don't have it, they can get it by 3pm if you order before 10am.

Fluids look cheaper, but if you save a buck-a-quart by ordering online, I hope to high heaven you spend that $5 to have it gift wrapped. That'd just make some poor amazoids day, gift wrapping a bucket of oil.:laugh:

*Oil filters russle jimmies, but there's no disputing that everything that comes out of Champion Labs can be made of solid gold materials, and still put together by somebody that's trying to get fired because they just can't bring themselves to quit. It's their hallmark, it's what they do.
Image


Point is, if you're going to settle for Fram quality, only pay a Fram price for it.
https://www.tiger-explorer.com/index.php?topic=10005.0
 
Walmart carries a cheap line of vehicle accessories called "Auto Drive" that you should take a look at. The other day, I picked up a visor organizer and two seat-hung organizer/cooler bags that hang off the back of the front seats. If you're rolling solo, you can just hang one of those bags off the front of the passenger seat and have cold beverages within arms reach. (Obviously, not alcohol!)

https://www.walmart.com/c/brand/autodrive

You may find that the Patriot is impractical for hauling passengers due to the lack of space between the front and rear seats, so you may want to simply leave the rear seats down to put that space to use for hauling whatever. I'm single and don't need the rear seats for anything, so that's what I've done. If you choose to do that, you will want to get a cover for the enlarged rear cargo area so that you can put whatever you need to back there without having to worry about ruining the interior. For that, you can get a Canvasback liner that will cover the back of the rear seats to the rear tailgate.

https://www.canvasback.com/

For adding USB ports for charging, I recommend the Anker USB car chargers. They have models that fit both the 12v (vehicle) and Aux Power (wall) outlets. If you have the cargo area storage cubby and no sub-woofer, there is a great multi-port charger that you can sit in there and run off the rear 12v outlet for camping and other things. They also offer ruggedized cables that are ideal for use in vehicles or field situations like camping, construction, etc. and portable power banks that you may find useful as well.

https://www.anker.com/products/108/Chargers


The front passenger area has a little niche built into it for phones and other such things and it's just the right place to have a wireless charging pad for your phone. If you look on Amazon, you can find many that will fit in there. The rectangular pads that mirror the general profile of a smartphone should be just the right size to fit in that niche without flying out every time you take a sharp turn.

Here's an example of what I'm talking about: https://www.amazon.com/Wireless-Alpatronix-Non-Slip-Charging-Compatible/dp/B0798X8Y9K/

Alternatively, you can just use the tried and true USB charging method, but you may find it annoying to plug/unplug frequently, not to mention it may damage your phone's USB port if you accidentally drop the phone while holding it and it's plugged in or it somehow flies out of wherever you're storing it.
 
The other 2 issues are that the Patriot needs a horn and has no driver side air bag.
Wondering if anyone has any experiences with the issues I described? Easy fix or mechanic fix?
Hello!

I just installed an aftermarket horn as a replacement for the stock one. This is the one I chose, might be a little overpowered for some but I love it so far:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B017R6VI9Q/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

It comes with simple instructions, no need to sift through wiring diagrams. In fact, a photo on the sale page shows exactly how to install it. Also comes with the complete wiring harness, at appropriate length, with no need to purchase wire extensions or extras.

I mounted it on the frame on the drivers side, between the frame itself and the fuse box, and zip tied the compressor directly to the trumpet. The only issue I've had thus far is that the tubing can slip off the compressor nozzle if the horn is depressed for too long (pressure issue), but that is circumvented by gluing the tubing directly on the nozzle.

Hope this helps!
 
Discussion starter · #30 · (Edited)
Walmart carries a cheap line of vehicle accessories called "Auto Drive" that you should take a look at. The other day, I picked up a visor organizer and two seat-hung organizer/cooler bags that hang off the back of the front seats. If you're rolling solo, you can just hang one of those bags off the front of the passenger seat and have cold beverages within arms reach. (Obviously, not alcohol!)

https://www.walmart.com/c/brand/autodrive

You may find that the Patriot is impractical for hauling passengers due to the lack of space between the front and rear seats, so you may want to simply leave the rear seats down to put that space to use for hauling whatever. I'm single and don't need the rear seats for anything, so that's what I've done. If you choose to do that, you will want to get a cover for the enlarged rear cargo area so that you can put whatever you need to back there without having to worry about ruining the interior. For that, you can get a Canvasback liner that will cover the back of the rear seats to the rear tailgate.

https://www.canvasback.com/

For adding USB ports for charging, I recommend the Anker USB car chargers. They have models that fit both the 12v (vehicle) and Aux Power (wall) outlets. If you have the cargo area storage cubby and no sub-woofer, there is a great multi-port charger that you can sit in there and run off the rear 12v outlet for camping and other things. They also offer ruggedized cables that are ideal for use in vehicles or field situations like camping, construction, etc. and portable power banks that you may find useful as well.

https://www.anker.com/products/108/Chargers


The front passenger area has a little niche built into it for phones and other such things and it's just the right place to have a wireless charging pad for your phone. If you look on Amazon, you can find many that will fit in there. The rectangular pads that mirror the general profile of a smartphone should be just the right size to fit in that niche without flying out every time you take a sharp turn.

Here's an example of what I'm talking about: https://www.amazon.com/Wireless-Alpatronix-Non-Slip-Charging-Compatible/dp/B0798X8Y9K/

Alternatively, you can just use the tried and true USB charging method, but you may find it annoying to plug/unplug frequently, not to mention it may damage your phone's USB port if you accidentally drop the phone while holding it and it's plugged in or it somehow flies out of wherever you're storing it.

Thanks Id like to add a USB port in the center console for wifi charging or direct connect to the phone, I am leaning towards a new radio head unit that offer navi and more full control of my iphone

Hello!

I just installed an aftermarket horn as a replacement for the stock one. This is the one I chose, might be a little overpowered for some but I love it so far:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B017R6VI9Q/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

It comes with simple instructions, no need to sift through wiring diagrams. In fact, a photo on the sale page shows exactly how to install it. Also comes with the complete wiring harness, at appropriate length, with no need to purchase wire extensions or extras.

I mounted it on the frame on the drivers side, between the frame itself and the fuse box, and zip tied the compressor directly to the trumpet. The only issue I've had thus far is that the tubing can slip off the compressor nozzle if the horn is depressed for too long (pressure issue), but that is circumvented by gluing the tubing directly on the nozzle.

Hope this helps!
That's a negative ghost rider, that horn just looks huge and prob would be loud as hell lol Thanks thou

Hey bud! Just a quick tip, but most of your list is cheaper at the autoparts store.

That "Mopar" oil filter is mid-grade Fram with a pentastar sticker*. For $7 you can grab a Wix of the shelf, no 2-day delivery.

The plugs it came with a USA made NGKs (ZFR5F-11, or just 2262) and they're pre-gapped so you don't have to do nothin but screw em in. Oh yeah, $2.50 each, so $10 a set.

The trans pan is $26 at rockauto, only $30-something at the parts store.

That Mopar trans filter? It's cleanable so you only need a new one if the screen is torn (and if it is it'll blow my mind) Also, it's $10 for a trans pan gasket or $14 for a trans pan gasket and screen.

The trans filter you need is KF403 and about $9 at the parts store. If they don't have it, they can get it by 3pm if you order before 10am.

Fluids look cheaper, but if you save a buck-a-quart by ordering online, I hope to high heaven you spend that $5 to have it gift wrapped. That'd just make some poor amazoids day, gift wrapping a bucket of oil.:laugh:

*Oil filters russle jimmies, but there's no disputing that everything that comes out of Champion Labs can be made of solid gold materials, and still put together by somebody that's trying to get fired because they just can't bring themselves to quit. It's their hallmark, it's what they do.
Image


Point is, if you're going to settle for Fram quality, only pay a Fram price for it.
https://www.tiger-explorer.com/index.php?topic=10005.0
Thanks for the heads up on other prices I'll have to shop around, if the trans filter is paper, why re-use and just wash it for $9

You won't get good gas mileage with it unfortunately
So why is the Jeep 4cy bad on gas? The MPG seems to indicate good MPGs but yeah my 3 hour trip the MPG sucked
 
The filter in your amazon link is the reusable one, I call it a pickup screen since that's what it is, but the parts store and Mopar call it a filter. The $9 filter KF 403 is the paper filter behind the soupcan "cooler". That's the one that needs replaced.

All the parts stores sell the pan gasket that includes a new pickup screen (it's literally a metal screen inside the steel housing). If you order just the gasket, it takes a few days to come in and only saves $4. The point I didn't articulate well is that if you install the pan with a drain plug, you never have to worry about the pickup screen again, there's a hundred different things that will blow up your transmission before that screen plugs up.

Also, if you're interested, I'm working on a solution to the KF403 filter that will replace it with an external spin-on filter. KF403 is tiny, hard to get to, and doesn't have a pressure bypass, so I'm going to remove it from the equation.
 
I agree on the pan strainer, pick-up screen, filter, whatever, etc.; it's definitely clean-able / re-useable.

But I guess for me if the fluid is really dirty (and mine was), for $4 it's easier just to pull the old strainer, throw it in the recycle box, and replace it with a nice clean new strainer & O ring, and save the 5 minutes or so I'd spend cleaning the old one with solvent to wash out all the ferro-magnetic cooties on something else, like getting another cold one. :)
 
Discussion starter · #33 ·
The filter in your amazon link is the reusable one, I call it a pickup screen since that's what it is, but the parts store and Mopar call it a filter. The $9 filter KF 403 is the paper filter behind the soupcan "cooler". That's the one that needs replaced.

All the parts stores sell the pan gasket that includes a new pickup screen (it's literally a metal screen inside the steel housing). If you order just the gasket, it takes a few days to come in and only saves $4. The point I didn't articulate well is that if you install the pan with a drain plug, you never have to worry about the pickup screen again, there's a hundred different things that will blow up your transmission before that screen plugs up.

Also, if you're interested, I'm working on a solution to the KF403 filter that will replace it with an external spin-on filter. KF403 is tiny, hard to get to, and doesn't have a pressure bypass, so I'm going to remove it from the equation.
Are you talking about this filter? Wow I didn't even know the trans had that type of filter? Why? So is the actual trans filter inside the transmission metal and can be re-used? and the paper cone is outside the transmission?
 

Attachments

No, KF403 lives here:
Image


I'm going to use a remote mount to put a spin-on filter outside the transmission, so that it can be changed and inpected without taking half my Jeep apart to get to it.

Image
 
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Discussion starter · #35 · (Edited)
No, KF403 lives here:
Image


I'm going to use a remote mount to put a spin-on filter outside the transmission, so that it can be changed and inpected without taking half my Jeep apart to get to it.

Image
Sounds like a good plan but this filter is a poor design by Jeep along with the way to measure the trans fluid.

Ive read posts on getting a napa or dorman dipstick https://www.autozone.com/drivetrain/auto-trans-dipstick/dorman-auto-trans-dipstick/4048_0_0 Or this one from Amazon https://www.amazon.com/NICECNC-Auto...s=dorman+917-327&dpID=41fm9kUtsWL&preST=_SY300_QL70_&dpSrc=srch#customerReviews But from what I'm reading even these dipsticks don't tell you the fluid levels? How the hell am I supposed to change it out and tell what the levels are?
 
Wish I knew, I was hoping that it would get a lot better. I get around 18.5 around town. I did get around 25-28 driving all highway to Tucson AZ. But it's not good
 
Sounds like a good plan but this filter is a poor design by Jeep along with the way to measure the trans fluid.

Ive read posts on getting a napa or dorman dipstick https://www.autozone.com/drivetrain/auto-trans-dipstick/dorman-auto-trans-dipstick/4048_0_0 Or this one from Amazon https://www.amazon.com/NICECNC-Auto...s=dorman+917-327&dpID=41fm9kUtsWL&preST=_SY300_QL70_&dpSrc=srch#customerReviews But from what I'm reading even these dipsticks don't tell you the fluid levels? How the hell am I supposed to change it out and tell what the levels are?
The Magic Stick has mystical engravings on it that must be deciphered by those who are learned in the ancient language of Tranaria. The Jeep/Chrysler monks who have sworn themselves to serving the High God Automota have a sacred text that only they are allowed to view, which allows them to decipher the markings with minimal effort, though second and third opinions on the meanings are often necessary to arrive at a satisfactory translation. As has been said in recent times, religion is a snare and a racket, and that certainly applies in this case. You may attempt to divine meaning from the stick without the sacred text, but it may drive you mad if you keep at it long enough.
 
The King Hayne's Version of the Sacred Text as used by the Catalytic Church of Our Lady of Internal Combustion.>:)
Image
 
Discussion starter · #40 ·
Reading even more about the CVT tranny seems even the fluid changes wont change the cooling issue that is associated with the transmission. I think someone recommended a tranny cooler on Amazon, now I cant seem to find it? Might as well do this plumbing as well since I'm putting on the oil cooler. Will the transmission cooler add more the capacity of the fluid that will be needed vs not putting one in? And how do I determine fluid capacity after the transmission cooler is installed?
 
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