today I stopped at a chrysler dealer and in the doorway I met a mechanic so I asked him about his opinion on the first oil change at 1000km.He just smiled and said to me that it's wasted money.All the engines before they are installed in the vehicles get lots of exercise and one should just follow the manufacturers manual to be on the safe side
first oil change
Belveder
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I debating switching to synthetic also. I am using Castrol GTX right now.
Anybody know who makes the Mopar 5W-20. I find the problem with dealership oil changes are that your choices of oil are limited. I am sticking with the Mopar filter for now until I can find a suitable replacement. Some have suggested WIX and Purolator. Not sure where to get either in Canada.
Anybody know who makes the Mopar 5W-20. I find the problem with dealership oil changes are that your choices of oil are limited. I am sticking with the Mopar filter for now until I can find a suitable replacement. Some have suggested WIX and Purolator. Not sure where to get either in Canada.
Mopar filters are strange... They are sometimes just rebranded FRAM filters, other times they are Purolator's. For 100% positive proof of the filter quality just use Wix/Purolator branded filter or the more expensive Mobil1 brand filters and know that your engine is getting the proper filtration. [Check out this link on filters here ]
Purolator can be found (in canada) @
UniSelect AutoParts
Auto Extra
Bestbuy AutoParts
McQuick Lube Outlets
[taken from pureoil.com]
Honestly there is no offical guideance on changing the oil early. Just do it to learn about your new vehicle as someone suggested and to take the task (of doing it vs. not doing it) off of your mind.
I have no idea where you can get the 5w-20 oil... It's very hard to come by from what I hear on other boards. Some people report walmart stocking it but I have never checked and can not confirm.
Edit: Keep thinking of stuff to add on
Purolator can be found (in canada) @
UniSelect AutoParts
Auto Extra
Bestbuy AutoParts
McQuick Lube Outlets
[taken from pureoil.com]
Honestly there is no offical guideance on changing the oil early. Just do it to learn about your new vehicle as someone suggested and to take the task (of doing it vs. not doing it) off of your mind.
I have no idea where you can get the 5w-20 oil... It's very hard to come by from what I hear on other boards. Some people report walmart stocking it but I have never checked and can not confirm.
Edit: Keep thinking of stuff to add on
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Not sure where Mopar gets their 5W-20 from. I've heard that the 5W-20 grade is becoming more popular so hopefully the choices will expand. If they make Castrol in 5W-20 I would not hesitate to use it.
Maybe order oil filters over the internet? I suppose that could be done with oil too....
One oil that I love is Chevron Delo 400 - it is not a synthetic per-se, but is of a more advanced oil "group" as compared to traditional oils, and has pour-point and wear characteristics that are not far from (PAO-based) synthetic. Plus its relatively cheap. Problem is - I can only find it in 15W-40.
BTW I called Fram and they have discontinued the "Sure Drain" product line. Still can get it via ebay and Jegs.com but who knows for how long.
I'd be interested to hear from anyone with experience with the Fumoto valve on a FDII patriot.
Maybe order oil filters over the internet? I suppose that could be done with oil too....
One oil that I love is Chevron Delo 400 - it is not a synthetic per-se, but is of a more advanced oil "group" as compared to traditional oils, and has pour-point and wear characteristics that are not far from (PAO-based) synthetic. Plus its relatively cheap. Problem is - I can only find it in 15W-40.
BTW I called Fram and they have discontinued the "Sure Drain" product line. Still can get it via ebay and Jegs.com but who knows for how long.
I'd be interested to hear from anyone with experience with the Fumoto valve on a FDII patriot.
Oh just something else I thought of... back in the day when I worked at a quick lube (when I was a young lad) there was I trick I learned. I don't know if it'll work on the 2.4L but I'll type it out for someone to try.
If you drain the oil first, leave the plug out and then loosen the filter. Don't take it off, just crack the seal enough so the pressure can escape. This used to let out just a tiny bit more oil from the block than the normal plug, then filter change style did. Didn't work on all cars but I remember it working on chrysler products...
If you drain the oil first, leave the plug out and then loosen the filter. Don't take it off, just crack the seal enough so the pressure can escape. This used to let out just a tiny bit more oil from the block than the normal plug, then filter change style did. Didn't work on all cars but I remember it working on chrysler products...
I am using Castrol GTX 5W-20? I was told that Fram stopped making the sure drain because it didn't sell. 18 bucks on ebay will get you 2 including shipping.
The reason I went with the Fram over the Fumoto is that the Fumoto sticks out a bit more and scares me if I were to take it off road. With my luck I would tear it off.
Well, on my 13 year old 160,000 mile Neon that the Patriot replaced, I changed it at 2832 miles for the first oil change--as per the owner's manual (3000). The rest of the car is getting pretty rusty, but the motor is still going strong, still delivering 30 mpg city.
Another former car of mine, 1993 Plymouth Acclaim 2.5L, now owned by a friend, is now close to 300,000 miles. Motor is good, but has finally developed a pretty good oil leak from rear main. BTW, when I did the head gasket on the Acclaim at 175,000 miles, the cylinder cross hatch was still easily visible! I expected to at least see a "ring ridge" at the top of the cylinder, but the bore was smooth all the way to the top, with a beautiful cross hatch!
IIRC, my 1989 Ford Mustang 5.0L owner's manual specifically stated an early oil change was not necessary, due to special break-in oil installed by the manufacturer.
But, sure, do whatever you are most comfortable doing.
Another former car of mine, 1993 Plymouth Acclaim 2.5L, now owned by a friend, is now close to 300,000 miles. Motor is good, but has finally developed a pretty good oil leak from rear main. BTW, when I did the head gasket on the Acclaim at 175,000 miles, the cylinder cross hatch was still easily visible! I expected to at least see a "ring ridge" at the top of the cylinder, but the bore was smooth all the way to the top, with a beautiful cross hatch!
IIRC, my 1989 Ford Mustang 5.0L owner's manual specifically stated an early oil change was not necessary, due to special break-in oil installed by the manufacturer.
But, sure, do whatever you are most comfortable doing.
Yeah, either way the engine is going to run forever... They are pretty easy to take care of these days too so that is a nice bonus.
I never liked changing the plugs on my old 89 Mustang because the A/C canister was right in the was on cylinder #4. And that double hump oil pan was a real PITA! With the Libby - the plugs are all right out from the top. Just pop off the air cleaner duct and go to town with your socket wrench. The oil is also pretty easy
gotta love cars that are painless to wrench on.
I never liked changing the plugs on my old 89 Mustang because the A/C canister was right in the was on cylinder #4. And that double hump oil pan was a real PITA! With the Libby - the plugs are all right out from the top. Just pop off the air cleaner duct and go to town with your socket wrench. The oil is also pretty easy
gotta love cars that are painless to wrench on.
I don't think such a thing exist's... Best thing to do is crack the filter seal and let the oil drain down the filter into the pan. Use a papertowel and then remove said filter without tipping so the oil doesn't run down your arm.
Lukewarm oil = Nice
hot oil = unhappy nerves located on the forearm
Lukewarm oil = Nice
hot oil = unhappy nerves located on the forearm
It's called a screwdriver
I remeber my old 3.1L GM. The third plug on the rear driver's side. You could barely get your hand in there.
One trick I found worked well was use some surgical tubing on the end of your spark plug to get them started without cross threading them.
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3,195 Posts
Phillips or Flat Head?It's called a screwdriver
How about a pop top like a can of soda??? :blah:
Maybe DYSON will invent an engine that doesn't lose power and never needs a filter!
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312 Posts
Update...I went to the dealer in town today, and they told me the "road ready" story. Said I didn't need to get the oil / filter changed until the 3,000 mile mark, there is no light weight oil in the motor that needs to be changed out. First time for everything.
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146 Posts
As an update to the "Sure Drain" product - I actually found one at a local auto part store (Salvo Auto parts). They must be selling off old inventory.
Found Castrol 5W-20 at another chain store (Advance Auto Parts). They had a couple other brands with that grade, including Mobil 1.
Found Castrol 5W-20 at another chain store (Advance Auto Parts). They had a couple other brands with that grade, including Mobil 1.
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146 Posts
Just did the first oil change on my FD II. In my case, I did not have a problem with oil running onto the skidplate. Maybe it helped that I did not remove the fill cap until after the oil started draining.
I tried the trick of punching a hole in the filter to drain its oil before unscrewing (note: please make sure you can loosen the filter a little first). That works, although strangely after I thought the filter was all drained and loosened it further, substantially more oil came out of the hole, so keep a drain pan under it as you loosen.
I replaced the drain plug with the Fram Sure Drain plug (used a torque wrench to install). The hole in the skidplate allows plenty enough access to screw on the drain tube for the next oil change. Seems to be enough clearance for the Fumoto style drain valve as well.
All in all the patriot is the easiest vehicle to do an oil change on that I have owned. The toughest part was loosening the original filter - none of my "cap style" filter wrenches fit, and it was tricky using a small strap style wrench because I had to get it through the skidplate, but that worked.
I tried the trick of punching a hole in the filter to drain its oil before unscrewing (note: please make sure you can loosen the filter a little first). That works, although strangely after I thought the filter was all drained and loosened it further, substantially more oil came out of the hole, so keep a drain pan under it as you loosen.
I replaced the drain plug with the Fram Sure Drain plug (used a torque wrench to install). The hole in the skidplate allows plenty enough access to screw on the drain tube for the next oil change. Seems to be enough clearance for the Fumoto style drain valve as well.
All in all the patriot is the easiest vehicle to do an oil change on that I have owned. The toughest part was loosening the original filter - none of my "cap style" filter wrenches fit, and it was tricky using a small strap style wrench because I had to get it through the skidplate, but that worked.
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913 Posts
Got our first oil change today. I didn't realize it was complementary at the dealer for the first one, so that was a nice surprise. 1700 miles - even if its not true for the new engines, I still like to get the first one a little early, figure a couple bucks now for possible long term benefits.
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146 Posts
Yeah, an early oil change isn't going to hurt anything. Nothing wrong with pampering your baby a little!
For kicks, when I changed the oil I tried to pour the old oil through a coffee filter to see if there were any particles in the oil. That didnt work - the oil wouldnt pass through the filter - I should have known that. Occurred to me later that I could have dragged a magnet through the drain pan....
Anyway, the "old" (1000 mi) oil looked fine, somewhat dirty (like it should) but fine.
For kicks, when I changed the oil I tried to pour the old oil through a coffee filter to see if there were any particles in the oil. That didnt work - the oil wouldnt pass through the filter - I should have known that. Occurred to me later that I could have dragged a magnet through the drain pan....
Anyway, the "old" (1000 mi) oil looked fine, somewhat dirty (like it should) but fine.
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