today I stopped at a chrysler dealer and in the doorway I met a mechanic so I asked him about his opinion on the first oil change at 1000km.He just smiled and said to me that it's wasted money.All the engines before they are installed in the vehicles get lots of exercise and one should just follow the manufacturers manual to be on the safe side
first oil change
Belveder
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today I stopped at a chrysler dealer and in the doorway I met a mechanic so I asked him about his opinion on the first oil change at 1000km.He just smiled and said to me that it's wasted money.All the engines before they are installed in the vehicles get lots of exercise and one should just follow the manufacturers manual to be on the safe side
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Time to go to another dealership and talk to another mechanic! :wow:
Ok, so they "exercise them" (Not exactly sure what that means?) - If they crank it over to check to make sure it works, drive it onto the lot and onto the carriers, off the carrier onto the dealer's lot, that means little metal chips and fillings do wear and move around. However, do they change the oil and filter before selling them? NOT!
First oil change is important. Oil and filter are cheap! About $8-10 for 5 quarts of oil and another $4-$5 for a filter and 1/2 hour of your time in the driveway for a do it yourselfer!
Ok, so they "exercise them" (Not exactly sure what that means?) - If they crank it over to check to make sure it works, drive it onto the lot and onto the carriers, off the carrier onto the dealer's lot, that means little metal chips and fillings do wear and move around. However, do they change the oil and filter before selling them? NOT!
First oil change is important. Oil and filter are cheap! About $8-10 for 5 quarts of oil and another $4-$5 for a filter and 1/2 hour of your time in the driveway for a do it yourselfer!
I can only assume that a significant amount of research has gone into this by engineers around the world to determine what needs to be done for a new engine.
I know that the owner's manual states moderate varying engine speed for first few hundred miles, then go to either Schedule A or B, which is either 3000 or 6000 miles for first indicated oil change. The Corporation, who is actually liable if something breaks while under warranty does not recommend changing oil or the filter until 3000 miles!
Whereas, early oil changes are something we are all somehow aware of, since we heard it somewhere, so it is something we should do because somehow we know more than the auto companies? Not very exact!
Did you know that an oil filter was an option as recently as the 1957 Chevy smallblock V8? Standardly, the motor did not have an oil filter. Granted, that is perhaps one of the reasons that expected motor lifespan was only 100k miles for all cars of that era. IIRC, Chrysler pioneered oil filtration, and then the spin on cartridge oil filter, back when their slogan was "Excellence in Engineering"
By "exercise" there is surely a test start procedure at the GEMA engine plant in Dundee MI, followed by running it at certain rpms for a certain length of time, with a computer controlling the test cycle and all sorts of sensors checking temps on all 4 cyls, exhaust temps, ignition voltage/current, alternator output, etc. Then, it is crated and shipped to Belvidere for installation. It would be exceedingly expensive to make it, ship it, then install a motor on the assembly line, and finally stick a key in at the end, and.....nothing...........
The Megafactories shows on National Geographic channel, as well John Ratzenbergers "Made In America" and others, are educational on how stuff is made.
I know that the owner's manual states moderate varying engine speed for first few hundred miles, then go to either Schedule A or B, which is either 3000 or 6000 miles for first indicated oil change. The Corporation, who is actually liable if something breaks while under warranty does not recommend changing oil or the filter until 3000 miles!
Whereas, early oil changes are something we are all somehow aware of, since we heard it somewhere, so it is something we should do because somehow we know more than the auto companies? Not very exact!
Did you know that an oil filter was an option as recently as the 1957 Chevy smallblock V8? Standardly, the motor did not have an oil filter. Granted, that is perhaps one of the reasons that expected motor lifespan was only 100k miles for all cars of that era. IIRC, Chrysler pioneered oil filtration, and then the spin on cartridge oil filter, back when their slogan was "Excellence in Engineering"
By "exercise" there is surely a test start procedure at the GEMA engine plant in Dundee MI, followed by running it at certain rpms for a certain length of time, with a computer controlling the test cycle and all sorts of sensors checking temps on all 4 cyls, exhaust temps, ignition voltage/current, alternator output, etc. Then, it is crated and shipped to Belvidere for installation. It would be exceedingly expensive to make it, ship it, then install a motor on the assembly line, and finally stick a key in at the end, and.....nothing...........
The Megafactories shows on National Geographic channel, as well John Ratzenbergers "Made In America" and others, are educational on how stuff is made.
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No you don't need to change oil early. I did at around 750. Makes me feel better. Btw car companies are only concerned that the vehicle have no problems until after warranty and you are happy enough to buy another of their products. They do not care if the engine is still going strong at 250,000 miles or 400,000 km. You may.
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Change your oil & filter at 100 miles, 700 miles, 2000 miles, 3000 miles, then every 3000 after that.
Do this or you will regret the day you were born !
Do this or you will regret the day you were born !
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3,195 Posts
location of filter
Out of curiosity, where is the oil filter located on the 2.4L engine?
Does anyone have pictures of the filter and its location?
Is it easily accessible (get to it and change it without ending up with "sludge arm")? I ask because my V6 Dakota has the filter in a location that makes it near impossible (without using a lift) to unscrew the filter without ending up with an entire arm soaked in oil.
Out of curiosity, where is the oil filter located on the 2.4L engine?
Does anyone have pictures of the filter and its location?
Is it easily accessible (get to it and change it without ending up with "sludge arm")? I ask because my V6 Dakota has the filter in a location that makes it near impossible (without using a lift) to unscrew the filter without ending up with an entire arm soaked in oil.
Curious myself, I went out for a look and it is located right under the Riot. I added 2 pictures in the Technical Photo folder (hope I did that right). Looks like it is an easy change, however, you may still get hit with oil since it is vertical.
Cheers!
http://www.jeeppatriot.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=259
http://www.jeeppatriot.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=260
Just got mine changed at 4500 kilometres. I think I am going to start changing my own from now own though. I never realy trust other people doing things to my vehicle. I always do my own maitenance, even replaced my old transmission. Even dealers have a tendancy to overtighten everything.
Anybody have any experience with these:
http://www.fumotovalve.com/
I hear good things and a lot of people on the Caliber forums seem to like them. I am not sure if it will stick out past the skid plate. Fram also makes a similar item called the Sure Drain. It might be better suited as it is not as long.
Anybody have any experience with these:
http://www.fumotovalve.com/
I hear good things and a lot of people on the Caliber forums seem to like them. I am not sure if it will stick out past the skid plate. Fram also makes a similar item called the Sure Drain. It might be better suited as it is not as long.
I have the Frame Sure Drain on my Ford Explorer. It works great. Just replace the cap/plug on the vehicle with theirs. It has a one way valve that is opened when you screw on the flexible plastic hose, directs it right where you want it. Especially helpful on mine, as the plug/drain is located to the side.
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77 Posts
I changed my oil yesterday for the first time at 2500,
the dealer was giving me flack, to early, no use..waste of money, etc...
I will go back at 5k and get on the regular schedule
the dealer was giving me flack, to early, no use..waste of money, etc...
I will go back at 5k and get on the regular schedule
Think I am going to go with the sure drain. $12.00 on ebay for 2. It will make it much easier for sure. When I pulled the drain plug oil shot into the skid plate and made a huge mess. They just have a little cutout in the plate to access the drain. At least with the hose I can direct it into some jugs.
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146 Posts
I haven't done my 1st oil change on my FD-II so I'm interested to hear about other's experiences.
I have used the Fram Sure Drain for a few years on my RX-7 and it works well - just be patient as the oil doesnt flow very quickly out of it.
What size (or model number) Sure Drain fits the patriot?
I have used the Fram Sure Drain for a few years on my RX-7 and it works well - just be patient as the oil doesnt flow very quickly out of it.
What size (or model number) Sure Drain fits the patriot?
Yep, when I left the oil change place I had a nice pile of oil in the skid plate. Hosed it off when I got home.
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312 Posts
So lemme get this straight. There's no break-in period of 500 miles or whatever the number is...to get lighter weight oil out of the motor and put in the regular stuff?
Every other vehicle I've owned has had a 500 mile service for that. Odd.
Every other vehicle I've owned has had a 500 mile service for that. Odd.
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146 Posts
Thanks for the Sure Drain size info Hydronaut.
Sounds like we may have to come up with a scheme to minimize skidplate mess when removing the filter. One thought is to punch a hole in the bottom of the filter prior to removal, thus letting residual oil flow out of it.
On the topic of break-in. I could find no specific guidance regarding an "early" first oil change. I was going to do mine at around 1000 miles or so mainly because I'm anxious to see how easy it is to do the oil change on it. I'll probably switch to synthetic oil at ~7000 miles to ensure the engine is fully broken in - could probably make the switch a lot sooner than that with no ill effects.
Sounds like we may have to come up with a scheme to minimize skidplate mess when removing the filter. One thought is to punch a hole in the bottom of the filter prior to removal, thus letting residual oil flow out of it.
On the topic of break-in. I could find no specific guidance regarding an "early" first oil change. I was going to do mine at around 1000 miles or so mainly because I'm anxious to see how easy it is to do the oil change on it. I'll probably switch to synthetic oil at ~7000 miles to ensure the engine is fully broken in - could probably make the switch a lot sooner than that with no ill effects.
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