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Severe Driveline Vibration and movement when flexing

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#21 ·
but what's the fun in that? My mom has a '98 Lincoln Mark Viii LSC with a wonky air ride system. The rears are always fully inflated, and the front drops down to the ground after a little while. BUT, it can go fully tucked, and still drive. I want to buy it just to put in an aftermarket managment system since the oem one is pretty much gone. That being said, I know the wk2's dont go THAT low when parked, but it sure would be fun to tinker with the air-ride

Here it is after I manually let the rear air out

 
#22 ·
back on your topic though... it looks like something is broken, and is hopping over the broken part... Bizarre that it does that in gear at idle...idk I wonder if you could have someone press the brakes, and you hold onto one of the front tires, and see if you can hold it while they just let off the brake slowly. Like, maybe it is something in the hub broken, but without resistance, the wheel can still spin. Have you driven it with the fuse out yet?
 
Discussion starter · #23 ·
The fuse was out for the video, that way I only had to get one wheel off the ground. Drove with the abs fuse out for the past 2 days, under normal driving conditions nothing is out of the ordinary. Same if I flex and have the drivers side in the air, problem doesn't happen then either.
 
Discussion starter · #26 ·
I know the dealer thing, how do I explain to the dealer that it only happens when i'm flexed out with tires hanging in the air? Like I said the oil leak I have no issues taking in, but i'm a pretty honest person and pretty sure more own stupidity caused this, so I have a moral dilemma asking for warranty.

Also, it will be a WK2 I do like the commander but finding one not bagged out it tough around here.

I tried to find a way to mount the go pro but didn't have any luck,
 
#27 · (Edited)
Tyler-98-W68 said:
I know the dealer thing, how do I explain to the dealer that it only happens when i'm flexed out with tires hanging in the air? Like I said the oil leak I have no issues taking in, but i'm a pretty honest person and pretty sure more own stupidity caused this, so I have a moral dilemma asking for warranty.

Also, it will be a WK2 I do like the commander but finding one not bagged out it tough around here.

I tried to find a way to mount the go pro but didn't have any luck,
Click to expand...
Just say when you're offroad or driving through deep snow and the wheels flex out all the way it shakes...heck you could probably find a snowbank or curb that flexes it out enough. Also mention you found oil drips on the bottom of the engine and tranny. Honestly what have you done offroad that isn't encouraged or advertised in their ads? Yes they might be able to point to your swaybar disconnects and the RRO causing the axle to overextend but they have to prove that that is the cause...and then you might have to pay out of pocket for parts...Just ask them and be open.

Ads:
 
#29 ·
rcguymike said:
Offroading is all over the Jeep marketing and literature. It's not against their policy it's actually encouraged. Now sinking it in a lake and trying to pass it off as driving through a puddle they will deny. Say you had to drive through a construction zone or somewhere with a large pot hole, even on road you might be able to get a flex pattern like that. I still say wash it up show them you properly maintain your vehicle and bring it in. Anything that is drivetrain OEM they have to cover for 5 years or 100,000 miles unless they can prove negligence.

Any thoughts JeepCares?

Heck technically I was on a road here: But if I would have kept going or if I had been on the other side in an emergency I might have had to drive through 2 feet of water and bounce over a trench(I would say the water damage wouldn't have been covered but if I had driven reasonably through the trench, if there was one, and a swaybar link or something snapped that should be covered): https://plus.google.com/photos/1026...photos/102639421360001209258/albums/5872382891126905297?authkey=CISdz42RzIa7jwE
Click to expand...
The Trail Rated® badge means that your Jeep 4x4 has been designed to perform in five categories of off-road conditions: traction, ground clearance, maneuverability, articulation, and water fording. Like rcguymike mentioned, powertrain warranty is 5 year or 100,000 miles—whichever comes first. I’d recommend having the issues inspected by a dealer.
 
Discussion starter · #30 ·
Thanks for the advice Jeep Cares, unfortunately I haven't had the best relationship with the service department where I bought my vehicle from. After I had the RRO winch bumper and winch installed they told me I no longer had warranty, needless to say i'm not very happy with them. Further more when I needed a rear strut replaced under warranty (before my lift) they had to special order the part in. Once the part was in, and my lift was on (I had to wait 4 weeks for the part) the service department told me they couldn't replace the strut because "they didn't know how with the lift on" it's a simple spacer lift and I was prepared to even pay the labor charge for any extra work involved due to my lift being installed, but that didn't fly either. I"m not very impressed to say the least.

Anyways back to what I determined the problem is:

Here is a picture of what I believe to to be the transmission mount on my compass, I've added some terrible labels to it.

Image


You'll see that the rubber part of the mount has separated apart 1/2-3/4" from the center of the mount, its basically pulled out.

Now here is a picture of a DEA brand Trans mount for a compass


Image


i'm not sure if the stock picture is the same orientation as how i'm showing it on my compass, but it does appear that the mount is now defective/broken.

So, how difficult is the mount to change, the trans mount looks like its a bit tricky to get to in order to replace.
 
#31 ·
Sounds like that dealer needs to be audited and "restructured" or something... Is there another dealer worth road tripping to? Maybe call ahead and making an appointment and explaining the situation. They should include a free loaner for warranty work if it'll take more than a day. Just say you've been in contact with Jeep more directly and they say it's under warranty but your local dealer is refusing to do the work. Or hopefully you can get to that mount and fix it yourself easily enough.

This is probably the same dealer Sask_riot doesn't like as well?
 
Discussion starter · #33 ·
I'm going to guess this is the lower one as it was taken with my go pro from underneath. I'd have to remove my K & N to check to see if it's the upper one
 
#36 ·
rcguymike said:
Sounds like that dealer needs to be audited and "restructured" or something... Is there another dealer worth road tripping to? Maybe call ahead and making an appointment and explaining the situation. They should include a free loaner for warranty work if it'll take more than a day. Just say you've been in contact with Jeep more directly and they say it's under warranty but your local dealer is refusing to do the work. Or hopefully you can get to that mount and fix it yourself easily enough.

This is probably the same dealer Sask_riot doesn't like as well?
Click to expand...
Unfortunately I think this was a different dealership. Closest ones after this are at least an hour away.

Tyler-98-W68 said:
I'm going to guess this is the lower one as it was taken with my go pro from underneath. I'd have to remove my K & N to check to see if it's the upper one
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Tyler if they keep giving you a hard time, I can help when I come home in 2 days. The lights I want to get all installed on my jeep can wait if you want me to help, I see your mounts as more important than my lights. Especially since I want us all to go out wheeling again soon.
 
#37 · (Edited)
Your picture is disorientating, but if that's the O2 sensor plug attached to it then it's actually the lower engine mount and it's a wishbone style unit. 2 bolts attach it to the k-frame only plus the through-bolt, a simple r&r IMO. Can you get a better picture?
 
Discussion starter · #38 ·
Alright, have some better pictures and DJMurphy and you are right it is the lower engine mount. I took a small pry bar and stuck it in the mount and was easily able to move it, which in turn moved the transmission driveshaft and everything, it looks like on the right hand side something has separated. So you say it's not too bad of a fix, how exactly do you access it to fix it without dropping the front cross member and skidplate?

Image


Oh also discovered this:

Image


It's a bracket that holds a metal shield around where the driveshaft connects to the rear section of the driveshaft. Bolt is tight but looks like the bushing is getting pulled out. Doesn't appear to be affecting anything at the moment, probably got myself hung up at some point and dragged myself over something and jarred it out of place.

Request, can someone else take a picture of their rear lower motor mount, and that little bracket I posted. Thanks!
 
Discussion starter · #40 ·
moparnumber1 said:
you need to get yourself some Poly bushings lol. I dont like how much play our rubber bushings have, Even my engine walks all over the engine bay and the bushings are fine.
Click to expand...
GO flex out like I was and test it out, I used to have zero issues while flexed out, something is screwed...........I think i''d love some poly engine mounts, but doubt any are made for our vehicles.
 
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DJMurphy
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