Jeep Patriot Forums banner
21 - 40 of 46 Posts
Discussion starter · #22 ·
Update:

My CANBUS stopped allowing the right rear new amber lamp to fire.
I knew it wasn't the harness or my grounds so out came the multimeter.

Turns out the Curt converter was allowing too much voltage to leak through on the new right rear amber circuit. The fault code was something along the lines of "high voltage on blah, blah, blah."

So I emailed my contact at eTrailer and asked him which of the two 2 to 3 converters they sold had the least amount of returns, failure, etc.

He tells me he talked to the installers and that they almost unanimously recommended this one:
http://www.etrailer.com/Accessories-and-Parts/Tow-Ready/118158.html

So I got it, installed it and all is back to working properly.
Obviously one of the diodes or capacitors or something in the Curt box failed.
I cracked it open and there is a surprising amount of electrical gizmos in there...

I've edited the first post to include this info.

Also...it bears repeating...pay attention to your grounds...do not create a new chassis ground, run both new lamps back into the original factory grounds of the stock wiring harness. A member has PM'd me with an issue of his tails dimming when brakes are applied and both I (with my limited electrical knowledge) and my new found friend who is a ticketed, factory trained auto tech specializing in auto electric feel he has somehow messed up his grounds. Again, this assumption is given the limited amount of info I have and I haven't seen any pics of the install, the loom or whatnot.
 
Discussion starter · #23 · (Edited)
So, a minor update.

after running around with amber tail lamps working well I have now embarked upon making my Patriot able to tow.

As I have clipped and modified my rear tail lamp wiring using a T connecter kit wasn't going to work. so I bought the generic Moduline from eTrailer and set to work.

After removing the valence and opening the rear back up I noticed my converter mounted behind the rear bumper was dirty. As I now had another converter to mount beside it I decided to figure out a way to move both inside the cabin space.

I didn't grab and photos but if you look at the one below you see what looks like masking tape patches along the inside of the rear sill. These cover over multiple holes that are filled with foam. On the outside (you can see it in one of the photos above) there are two holes, one on each side, with foam sticking out a bit.

I simply punched a screwdriver through one of the holes until I saw it on the inside, pushed a fish tape into that, attached the wires needed and pulled them trough and then proceeded to hook up both converters inside. My loom still runs along the bumper only now with a pigtail coming inside to the converter.

All I can say is read the directions, decide if you are 2 wire or three wire (you can do either as you have the converter) and stay on one side or another...don't have half your trailer hook up on one side of the amber lamp converter, half on the other.

If you want your hook up to be outside, hanging by the hitch you will have to figure a way back out for that but I like mine in, only coming out with the hatch closing on it over the weatherstripping when in use so I left mine inside.

There isn't much to it, really, just pay attention and go slow. Its not a project to rush

Now, my utility trailer works fine, my tail lamps work fine and I still have amber rear turn signals.

 
Discussion starter · #25 ·
Yes, if that Amazon link still works you get a left and a right 2007 replica set of rear tail lamp housings complete with bulbs and sockets. Three bulbs, three sockets, not two and two. Plus the signal lamp socket comes with the amber bulb so it simply is a buy them and the converter and you are done.

They slipped into my 2011 vehicle with zero fitment issue. Almost look better built...the outward appearance is exact but the inside, the posts, etc looks more business-like, if that makes any sense.
 
Yellow Turn Signals

I hooked up my yellow turn signals today using the tow ready 118158 taillight adaptor. They work correctly until I press the brake pedal. When I activate the turn signal while the brakes are depressed, both brake lights blink and the opposite yellow turn signal blinks. I think I have the ground wires mixed up. I tied the white wire from the converter to the ground wires on both yellow signals and grounded them to the chassie. Should I ground the yellow signals to the respective brake light and ground the white wire from the converter to the chassie separately?
 
Discussion starter · #28 ·
Ken, I don't know.

All I can tell you is if you look upthread I drew out a wiring diagram.

If you look on that diagram my grounds all go back into the factory grounds, not to some new chassis ground. Including the converter ground.

Mine work with no brake lamp flicker or whatever and have worked for some time now except for that one converter going wonky on me. I did mine exactly as the wiring diagram I hand drew with Paint

Hope this helps.
 
I hooked up my yellow turn signals today using the tow ready 118158 taillight adaptor. They work correctly until I press the brake pedal. When I activate the turn signal while the brakes are depressed, both brake lights blink and the opposite yellow turn signal blinks. I think I have the ground wires mixed up. I tied the white wire from the converter to the ground wires on both yellow signals and grounded them to the chassie. Should I ground the yellow signals to the respective brake light and ground the white wire from the converter to the chassie separately?
Mine did the exact same thing when I tried this. Wired it exactly like Metaxa did, even added grounds. I think there are some messed up units floating around.
 
Metaxa, on your paint diagram, where the black ground lines cross, are they connected or just cross? There is a black wire with a light green stripe as a ground wire from the top bulb on both tail lights, is this what I ground the yellow turn signal to? It looks like the black wires with the light green stripe are grounded to the chassis under the interior side panels. Do you use any isolating diodes?
 
Discussion starter · #31 ·
Metaxa, on your paint diagram, where the black ground lines cross, are they connected or just cross? There is a black wire with a light green stripe as a ground wire from the top bulb on both tail lights, is this what I ground the yellow turn signal to? It looks like the black wires with the light green stripe are grounded to the chassis under the interior side panels. Do you use any isolating diodes?
From the converter ground wire I went up to the (new) L/R amber bulb grounds and soldered them in, then up to the factory grounds, soldered the converter AND amber bulb ground into that and from there to where ever... So yes, its all one ground, daisy chained together...if memory serves I used a bit heavier gauge wire too.

I installed no other items, no diodes, no resistors, nothing but the two new bulbs and the converter.

I'm no electrical guy, I researched and agonized over this for almost a year but I'm having none of the issues you and Mopar report but I can't really offer any help...I don't think I just got lucky tho...there is something.

Is everything in your loom soldered? No T taps, no twist and tape? Nothing loose?
 
Metaxa, I soldered all the wires that I am sure of. Some I have temporary connectors, like the green/red to left input, white/yellow to right input and stop output to both brake lights. I think I made a mistake connecting the new ground to the chassis. I am using 14 gauge wire for all the new wires. I'll connect the new grounds to the black/green factory grounds on both sides next weekend. Thank you for all your help.
 
Discussion starter · #33 ·
I wonder if the canbus sees power going to the new bulbs but doesn't "see" the ground as its not back into factory and if that is the issue?

Again, I don't know...but everyone around here I grilled on this including a factory trained tech who specializes in electrical, a guy who owns an auto-electric shop (rebuilding alternators, etc) and my regular mechanic all said the same thing...do not upset the canbus.
 
I still have a set of LED bulbs with resistors if anyone wants to try this :D
 
I wonder if the canbus sees power going to the new bulbs but doesn't "see" the ground as its not back into factory and if that is the issue?

Again, I don't know...but everyone around here I grilled on this including a factory trained tech who specializes in electrical, a guy who owns an auto-electric shop (rebuilding alternators, etc) and my regular mechanic all said the same thing...do not upset the canbus.
I tried it with LED bulbs without using resistors for this exact reason. But I can run quad tail lights all day no problem
 
Discussion starter · #36 ·
I tried it with LED bulbs without using resistors for this exact reason. But I can run quad tail lights all day no problem
Ya, it doesn't seem to mind an increase...my back up lamps were stock but I replaced with 27W modified fog lamps long ago and no issue at all.

You and Ken need to drive on up this summer, I'll do some pulled pork and we will catch some salmon, eat some crab, drink some beer and somewhere in there I can take a look...both of you have done something.

for $30 I'd even be willing to try another converter...
 
Amber turn signals

I worked on the amber turn signals again today. They work until I activate the brakes, then the brake lights blink and the opposite amber signal blinks. The amber turn signals must be back feeding through the brake lights when activated. I am going to start disassembling the grounds to test various setups. Your 2011 patriot must be wired differently than the 2010's. In the mean time the quad brake lights work great.
 
Ya, it doesn't seem to mind an increase...my back up lamps were stock but I replaced with 27W modified fog lamps long ago and no issue at all.

You and Ken need to drive on up this summer, I'll do some pulled pork and we will catch some salmon, eat some crab, drink some beer and somewhere in there I can take a look...both of you have done something.

for $30 I'd even be willing to try another converter...
lol, as good as it would be to do that, I cant even find time to do my own fishing locally haha. Do you by chance have a diagram written up on how you wired yours? I never thought of it as the turn signal feeding back into the brake lights like Ken just mentioned. I still have my unit, and a spare battery. I might do a mock-up with the extra housings I'm not using and do a bench test before cutting wires on the Patriot. I need "free" projects to keep me busy, been spending WAY too much on the Pat lately, and I wouldn't mind getting this to work.
 
Just did a bench test with 2 extra housings I had. Everything worked like it should. If I have enough wire I might go ahead and tackle this project again. Maybe I missed something last time?

[EDIT] Well, that didn't work. Did a temp wiring on the Jeep and the damn brake lights still surge. It's not a ground issue since I ran a wire straight from the battery (after trying with the oem grounds). My unit simply cant handle the load of incandescent bulbs for some reason. It's like it robs power from the "Brake" output to supply power to whichever turn bulb, which causes the surge. My voltage to the brake lights fluctuates when the turn signal is engaged. Any input, my ears are open, otherwise I'm giving up for good on this method. Hopefully Ken has better luck.

(sidenote) if I have my lights on and only have my (brake light) bulb connected to the low beam input from the Jeep and input feed from the Curt unit, it glows..... without the ground wire connected... wtf. is this saying there is a short in the Curt unit?
 
I think the turn signal may be back feeding the brake lights through the ground wires. I am going the separate all the grounds and isolate the turn signal from the brake light with diodes. I ordered some diodes from Etrailer today. The white wire from the converter can be grounded separately, maybe with a diode there too.

I am also going to try to find a better connector to the factory run/stop/turn input. The wire pulled out of the connector while I was switching back to the original red turn signals.

It will be a week on two before I have the parts and get back to business.
 
21 - 40 of 46 Posts