Jeep Patriot Forums banner
Cancel
Create thread New Garage Forums

MoparNumber1's Build Thread

Jump to Latest
61 - 80 of 273 Posts
#61 ·
Thanks for the link moparnumber1, looks like a standard metal mesh then pressed over formers for the grill holes.
Is the grill section different sizes on second gen, compared to our first gen? I know the top part is seperate to the bumper on the newer version, mine was in one piece when I took it off.
 
#62 ·
moparnumber1 said:
looking at getting new wheels soon. Going 20" since 18's are too small, and 19" tires are stupid expensive lol

Here's the wheels I'm kinda lookin' at. 20x10. Dunno exactly how that will fit. they come in either +18mm, +35mm or +38mm offset.





I know 20x10 is wide, REALLY wide, but i think it *might* work. wish I knew exactly.
Click to expand...
I have 22x9.5 and I got some rub at full turn. I'm running 245/30s, but I really want to go with a 265/35 to put some more meat on the tire. I'm with you though and haven't thought about turning.
 
Discussion starter · #63 ·
Jme said:
Thanks for the link moparnumber1, looks like a standard metal mesh then pressed over formers for the grill holes.
Is the grill section different sizes on second gen, compared to our first gen? I know the top part is seperate to the bumper on the newer version, mine was in one piece when I took it off.
Click to expand...
The grill itself is actually smaller by a couple inches
 
Discussion starter · #64 ·
Got my switchbacks in and some led ambers for the rear (Metaxa did a write-up on how to do this post 2007 models), hopefully it will fix the "surging" of the brake lights when the brakes are applied and turn signal is on. The guys at E-trailer pretty much said it cant be their unit and I had too much current being drawn... anywhoo, I want to recommend these guys if you want to buy LED's on Ebay [http://stores.ebay.com/autosaver88/] I actually fried both my switchbacks due to cross-wires when I was testing them on a spare battery and they replaced them for free! I only sent the bulbs back as requested and got another set of resisters too! now I have a couple backups that didnt cost me more than a postage stamp. :)
Should hopefully have everything installed and working by monday night. I'm on my way to a full LED swap on my entire Jeep.
 
Discussion starter · #71 ·
Okay, so I've been pondering this idea for a while now, and I think I might tackle it. Basically, I want independent rear ambers, but I dont want to use an aftermarket unit after the last rip-off fiasco I encountered. My idea is to use a universal brake switch, and remove the stock one, without disconnecting it, from the brake pedal. Basically, the Pat's computer will never know the brakes are being pressed. As for wiring, I will take the brake bulb harnesses, and use them for ambers, wire the new brake switch to new 3157 harnesses in the brake bulb spots on the tails. Also wire the 3rd brake light to the new brake switch. This presents a few problems:

1-Will ABS still work?
2-is the shift lever lock mechanical, or electric via brake switch
3-will the patriot start throwing codes because it is noticing acceleration and deceleration without any brakes(as far as it knows)?

I guess my best thing for now would to go out of town, take out the brake switch and drive around, to see if it does anything and test the ABS and all that jazz. I cant imagine ABS not working because what if the switch just randomly craps out one day when you are driving, but we all know how Chrysler can be screwy with things. I still love em though :)

Anyway, if this works, then my blinkers, and my hazards will all work like it would OEM like the export/2007 models.
 
#72 ·
moparnumber1 said:
Okay, so I've been pondering this idea for a while now, and I think I might tackle it. Basically, I want independent rear ambers, but I dont want to use an aftermarket unit after the last rip-off fiasco I encountered. My idea is to use a universal brake switch, and remove the stock one, without disconnecting it, from the brake pedal. Basically, the Pat's computer will never know the brakes are being pressed. As for wiring, I will take the brake bulb harnesses, and use them for ambers, wire the new brake switch to new 3157 harnesses in the brake bulb spots on the tails. Also wire the 3rd brake light to the new brake switch. This presents a few problems:

1-Will ABS still work?
2-is the shift lever lock mechanical, or electric via brake switch
3-will the patriot start throwing codes because it is noticing acceleration and deceleration without any brakes(as far as it knows)?

I guess my best thing for now would to go out of town, take out the brake switch and drive around, to see if it does anything and test the ABS and all that jazz. I cant imagine ABS not working because what if the switch just randomly craps out one day when you are driving, but we all know how Chrysler can be screwy with things. I still love em though :)

Anyway, if this works, then my blinkers, and my hazards will all work like it would OEM like the export/2007 models.
Click to expand...
I'd be extremely skeptical of removing the harness to the pedal. Like you said, the computer might just not know what to do. Metaxa did months of research in order to get his bulb setup done correctly. I'd probably just go that method, since we know it functions and I'd personally feel much safer. I was involved with his research a ton and helped him through the process and it wasn't just a let's try this and hope for the best. He bought everything knowing it was going to work.
 
Discussion starter · #73 ·
well, I just did a little test run with the switch removed, and nothing happened other than I had to use the recovery switch to shift into drive. I didn't see anything in the manual for a brake-light fuse...
There are 6 wires that are on the brake-switch harness. 1 is always hot. I just need to figure out what the others are, and just disconnect the wire(s) that goes to the brake lights. Instead of cutting crap, I'm just going to remove the contact plate inside the clip, so I can reverse to stock easily. This way, I still have everything else still connected.
 
Discussion starter · #74 ·
UPDATE! Mesh grill and bottom vents :D and some sub stuff too... I was rated at 137.4 Db with only a 600 Watt @2ohm amp, bought my Hifonics 1500 Watt rms @1ohm back from a friend, wired my 4ohm DVC subs to 1 ohm and its just rediculous how loud they are. I was contemplating getting 2 more... not any more lol. Inverted the subs to gain more cubic ft of air, maybe Monday I will do another DB test, this time with a test track, rather than just a song.




 
Discussion starter · #77 · (Edited)
It's just stupid loud now. this box was made for less powerful subs some 7 years ago, so inverting them gave me more airspace to play with. I just wish they werent 4 ohm DVC... either I only get 500 watts to them or I get 1500 at 1 ohm and risk blowing them. I've gotten the voice coils to heat up a couple times. It'll just take some tuning. I might say screw it and buy 2 more and a couple 1200 watt 1 ohm amps. These subs only cost $80 a pop lol

I will say this, if you have a box made for your subwoofer, inverting it will do nothing. I tried to invert my old setup a few years ago and there was no change whatsoever. It can actually make it sound worse and more hollow if there is too much ft³ of air
 
61 - 80 of 273 Posts
About this Discussion
272 Replies
21 Participants
Last post:
KevinBell
Jeep Patriot Forums
posts
678K
members
55K
Since
2006
Join our community to discuss the Jeep Patriot & Jeep Compass. Find answers to all your Jeep Patriot technical questions.
Full Forum Listing
Explore Our Forums
Jeep Patriot General Discussion Engine and Drivetrain Newbie Check-In Suspension and Tires Electrical and Audio