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12K views 37 replies 17 participants last post by  Earthworm51  
#1 ·
SeaFoam,

1. Do you recommend using it in the Patriot?
2. How much? The whole can?
3. How often?
 
#5 ·
Used it on my old Chrysler and it worked great, no issues. Usually did half a can in a full tank. Very smokey if it's the first time in a high mileage vehicle.
 
#8 ·
A whole can in the LandRover got it to pass emissions and cleared an annoying CEL.
 
#11 ·
Seafoams been around forever.
 
#13 ·
I am thinking that you are talking about Seafoam gas additive for the gas tank, correct? Didn't someone on here buy a can of Seafoam spray and spray it into their air intake? Which method is beter, or does it matter?
 
#20 ·
Seafoam comes in a couple different cans but is the same basic stuff. You can get an aerosol can that sprays into the TB opening and you can get the original can of pour in liquid as well. Also there is/was another aerosol product from them called Deep Creep but that may have been replaced by the new(er)aerosol product? In years past the Deep Creep was used to spray into the TB and to clean the TB itself.

Seafoam can be used in your gas tank like a fuel injector cleaner or to remove moisture. It can be added directly to the crankcase to remove moisture and free sticking lifters, rings, etc...( basically a quick flush ). It can also be sucked in via a vacuum source( PCV or brake booster )to clean the combustion chamber. There is the aerosol version/Deep Creep as well to clean TB's and spray into the TB opening vs needing a vacuum line to suck it in.

I have used it for many years and it is an excellent product. I have to say I basically use it to clean the CC and in the crankcase. I never have felt it was a very good FIC. Many other products that work betetr when added to the fuel tank IMO. It does an amazing job cleaning the CC. I do it once every 10K as preventative maintenance on new vehicles and it is one of the 1st things I do on a used vehicle.
 
#15 ·
Na, thats not condescending ... its educational. :)
 
#17 ·
Lucas goes in your oil, seafoam in your gas.
 
#21 · (Edited)
Just an FYI for you...

Seafoam can go in your oil and Lucas can go in your gas. :D

Lucas offers quite a few fuel additives in addition to the wide variety of products offered( not just for the oil ). They have various fuel injector cleaners, octane boosters, fuel stabilizers, etc... I don't use many of their products but their FIC is actually a half way decent product.

Seafoam can be used in the crankcase for a variety of uses ranging from a moisture remover to freeing sticking lifters, rings, etc... and even as a quick flush.
 
#19 ·
I know but its normally used as a fuel additive.
 
#23 ·
OK so as for the Techron Plus by Chevron, it doesn't sell in Canada. Found several posts in other forums that discuss the subject. Too bad, from all the info I came across, sounds like great stuff.

Your other recommendations, Gumout Regane is available at Canadian Tire for $12.99
 
#24 ·
CHEVRON TECHRON PLUS



+1 for Techron Plus.

I have a 97 Saturn w/manual trans that would not idle down immediately when clutching. My research pointed to a issue in the throttle body with the Air Intake Control and the fix was to clean/service the throttle body or replace the sensor. Ran two bottles of Techron through the tank, separately of course, and the problem went away after doing a Metaxa Italian tune-up. Good stuff IMHO.
 
#25 ·
I SeaFoam the PAT and Techron plus the C5.
 
#27 ·
I use Chevron fuel in the C5. I run it about 1/2 the time in the PAT. I used to use SeaFoam in the C5. I was having problems w/ the fuel gage dropping to empty on occasion with fuel still in the tanks. The Corvette forum folks recommended Techron.

"One of the common concerns with the Corvette is the fuel gauge goes to "empty" intermittently. First, let's discuss why this happens. As previously mentioned, the system estimates the fuel level at certain times. When the signal from the left hand sender is above the preset voltage limit, the system estimates the left hand tank fuel level to be full. When the signal from the right hand sender is below the preset voltage limit, the computer estimates the right hand tank fuel level to be empty.

In this situation, left tank full and right tank empty, the computer estimates the fuel level and sets that gauge at half tank. Once the fuel level in the left hand tank goes below the preset voltage limit, less than full, the computer begins reading the actual fuel level and setting the gauge accordingly. At this time the computer expects to see the voltage signal from the right hand tank stay below the preset limit that indicates empty. The problem comes from the fact that the signal from the right hand tank does not stay below the preset limit. When the computer sees the right hand signal voltage exceed the preset empty limit, it assumes that there is a problem in the fuel transfer system, which is a possibility. When this condition exists, the computer software turns on the Check Gauges light and commands the fuel gauge to the empty position. The logic for this is, if there were a problem with the fuel transfer system and fuel was not being transferred from the right hand tank into the left hand tank, you could have the gauge indicate half tank, when then the left hand tank would be empty and the right hand tank would be full. In this situation you would run out of gas and be walking.

On some Corvettes the situation that is occurring now is the result of the right hand sending unit being attacked by compounds within reformulated gasoline. This condition manifests itself as an erratic voltage signal from the right hand sending unit. In the above scenario, left tank full and right tank empty, gauge at half, the computer looks for the voltage signal from the right hand tank to stay below a preset level. The erratic voltage signal caused by the reformulated gasoline causes the computer to think there is fuel in the right hand tank when there is not. When this happens the computer software turns on the Check Gauges light and commands the fuel gauge to empty. GM has issued a revised computer software, for 1999 through early 2002 models, that raises the right hand preset voltage empty limit to prevent the erratic voltage signal from causing this situation. While it has proven to be an effective solution, it has not corrected the concern in all instances.

Another possible resolution is to use Techron fuel system cleaner. This has also worked in many, but not all cases."
 
#29 ·
The issue with the gas gauge( a common GM truck issue as well )is due to sulfur in the fuel eating away at the silver used on the sending unit in the tank. It builds up deposits and eventually eats it away damaging the sending unit beyond repair.

The Techron + Concentrate( has to be the T+C )has "stuff" in it that helps stop it from happening if used regularly. It protects the sending unit from the sulfur. I have read that it helped some people fix the issue after it happened. In that case I can only say they must have got to it quick enough to prevent permanent damage.

Note - the GM Fuel System Treatment stuff is just Techron + with a GM label.
 
#31 · (Edited)
It all depends on why you are using it. Sometimes you add it and drain it fairly quickly and other times you add it and leave it. Just depends on what you need it to do. The correct ratio to use is 1.5 oz of Seafoam p/qt of oil when used in the crankcase. Seeing as the Patriot has a 4.5 qt CC I would personally just round up. Rather than 6.75 oz I would just go with 7 oz.

Typically for a quick flush or moisture remover you want to run it about 25-50 miles. I had a vehicle before that had issues with condensation under the VC's( Dodge Ram w/ 4.7L )that normal engine temps couldn't get rid of. I would add a can of Seafoam to the CC and let the truck sit and idle for say 15 minutes then I would drive to the dealer for an OC. It helped a lot with removing the condensation so I didn't wind up with a ton of goo in there.

If you have a more serious issue like engine noise it may take 100 miles or longer. I have used it to free sticking rings and even to quiet noisy lifters. I have had it work fairly fast and other times it took a while for it to free the crud causing the noise. People just need to understand that it has to be something hung up with deposits/residue that Seafoam can dissolve for it to fix it. It isn't going to fix a mechanical issue.

If you have some serious sludge you add it and monitor the oil to see how fast it goes really black and then change it. Have done this as well. In a really dirty engine you might go 100-500 miles before you need to change the oil. I keep adding Seafoam and extending the OCI until I feel the sludge has been dealt with. It is a lot of "feel" when doing this unless you have a vehicle that is easy to pull VC's and such to get a good look inside. Pretty much for sludged engines I would do something like 500, 1000, 1500 then run a 3000( all with Seafoam ). It works really good for sludge removal but you have to be vigilant and careful as the oil filter gets loaded up fast the 1st couple times.

I have known people who add a can with every oil change and run it the entire time. I don't see the need for this. I only use it when there is a need. Again, it all depends on what you need it to do. It can be a short time or it can be the entire OCI.
 
#32 ·
Unless your running garbage oil from the local quickly mart for 50 cents a can then you need the following additives:

Oil additives: NOTHING
Fuel additives: NOTHING

Just change your oil and filter with quality products, air filter when needed.

No fancy aftermarket products are needed or ever recommended in your owners manual. If you actually think adding this stuff does any good in a well maintained engine, your wrong.

Now if you have a neglected engine, then this junk might help, but why was it neglected in the first place?


I sell a product, guaranteed not to harm your engine, fuel system or emissions, I filter air through a reverse osmosis process and add negative ions to it. It cost $45 per can and you just open it and let the engine suck the canned air in. Mpg will double and hp will tripple(results will vary, not typical)

If they can fool you into thinking this stuff is good main thence, they have goy you by the stupid gene we all possess.
 
#34 · (Edited)
I really resent the way you have presented your views. Very insulting to those of us who use the product. Also, Seafoam is not JUNK! Far from it. Have you ever used it? If not how can you pass judgement on it like this?

While you are generally correct that oil additives are not needed if you use quality oil and filters, and change it within a reasonable time frame, that is not always the case. My Ram w/ the 4.7L was a perfect example. A design flaw lead to major sludge issues even in properly cared for vehicle. Seafoam absolutely helped keep the engine cleaner inside.

Even if you use quality top tier fuel however fuel additives will provide benefits. Fuel systems get dirty regardless of the type of fuel used.

It is cool with me that you do not chose to use any additives but when you start telling me I am wrong and throwing out terms like junk and stupid genes it is pretty darn insulting. Seafoam has been around for decades and is a proven quality product that delivers on it's claims. For automotive and marine use.
 
#33 ·
@Jeep#2:

Its like fishing...you need lots of lures and other assorted equipment and gear.
Meanwhile the kid in the boat next to you with a small box of beat up lures, a hand me down rod is pulling in the same number of fish.